I had spent some time at Mark's (Zed4Life) today and we did a few things on my baby. Mark found that: - the TPS(?) was a wrong; - the coolant temp sensor connectors needed a clean (error code on ConZult); - the throttle cable was on too tight so the idle was affected and adjusted the idle; - cleaned the injector connectors; - adjusted my door height ; - tightened some fuel lines and vacuum lines; - some other things I think I can't remember! But thanks very much Mark the car is running much smoother and beeeeeeeeautiful... Had a great run home What we did find though as I talked to Mark about the timing is this: Do you guys spot anything wrong here? The last place where I had work done assured me that the timing belt was on 100% properly guaranteed and the timing was set exactly at 15 degrees. Anyway... Thanks very much Mark!!
CAS fully retarded? What's yr timing set at? If it's 15BTDC, then timing belt pobably out or CAS maybe damaged.
That looks as though the timing is really advanced the bolt should be about half way in the slot at 15°
Indeed that is the position for advanced timing... However mine is in that position and only at 10BTDC, but then again mine is well fooked.:thumbsup:
You're most welcome Neshy! Correct, TPS was set at 0.15 instead of now at correct 0.45, base idle screw had been incorrectly adjusted to compensate... Yes, your workshop has replaced the CTS connection but neglected to clean CTS terminals so error code 13 was still there causing your high idle/poor performance/bad economy I dont know who did this but it would have been impossible to have set the timing correctly like this as the base idle RPM was different after each time the throttle was opened... That position is definately way out of whack... 15[sup]0[/sup] is almost always in centre of CAS slots that I have seen... But as per above, with the CTS/TPS/throttle cable issues, correctly setting base idle would have been pretty difficult to accurately check. If anything, if timing was set/observed @ 15[sup]0[/sup], when idle was floating up around 1200-1500RPM, then now base idle is correctly set around 700-750, base timing will be actually much lower than 15[sup]0[/sup]... Given CAS is hard up against the slot with no more room for advancement, then timing belt must be out...yes?
We ahve seen a few cases where having the CAS fully advanced ...>> to get 15 degress was because the timing belt was out by one tooth at the crank. These zeds run much better after correcting this. Was this car always a manual? On autos, a neutral switch fault can cause something similar. We have also found at least one case where "everything appears correct" and still needs to be fully advanced at the CAS.
Well... Thanks guys for your replies... As you know I've still got heaps to learn about zeds and engines in general. Like you said Mark if it won't really affect anything then I won't bother chasing it up. From what you say though, since we changed the idle is it work getting the timing checked again? Thanks again
My CAS is set in a similar position. Changed CAS's several times, strip-down and visual inspection shows timing belt correctly positioned. Go figure!
Well I would... but its up to you...as the CAS is hard over as far as it will go in the advanced position, you won't get any more power as the only way is to retard it but it might not be a bad idea just so you know it's not too far advanced... PS: See Emmanual's post about aftermarket timing belts which might explain a few things...
