Your engine is obviously not standard if MLS Cometic gaskets have been used! What performance did you get on the Dyno and at what boost? Are standard head bolts used, as Shane comments, I would check torque of head bolts.
Is the oil cap clean as in no white look about it ? Don't know if this was asked be for as I am in a hurry .
Great, Good start. As Shane said, with ARP studs and MLS Cometic gaskets loosen off and then retorque all head bolts one at a time as per intinial tightening procedure. In my very limited experience with this type of gasket, on original installation they should be torqued to manufacturers specifications, the engine then run up to operating temperature, then retorqued. Because this is difficult on the VG30 (ie intake manifold and cam covers have to be removed along with everything sitting on top of them, its expensive and/or time consuming) people don't do it! hence MLS Cometic gaskets can leak, but yes they can be retorqued successfully. IMO MLS Cometic are very forgiving and the best gaskets for performance engines. Hope this helps, if I can be of further help please contact me Martin
Thanks Martin. I can say that they have never been re torqued after fitting the heads. 80ft lbs is correct tension yes? Working from inside then out? Thanks again mate. Col
Tip. Read the manual Actually also do a search, I remember something about a different recommended torque procedure for ARP studs vs bolts.
Yeah there is a bit of different info out their for torque specs, anything from 80-90Ft lbs. Ok, what are people's thoughts on the washer scenario, I honestly can't remember how mine was assembled. Can the "bigger" washers be sourced locally? I see Z1 sell the kit with special washers
Put your stock washers under the ARP washers. I still think there's a strong chance you have nothing to worry about. Unless I've read wrong the only sign of contamination was in oil that had dripped out and sat on the garage floor overnight?
Hey Rob. Yeah I hope your right. But to put my mind at rest I think I will go through a few processes, check head bolts, and do the TK test.
So, have ripped the top off, and can confirm that the ARP washers have been fitted on top of the OEM washers. So loosen off 1 at a time and re tension in order of Nissans recommendation? What I have noticed though is the studs have ARP ARP stamped in the ends, not ARP 2000, and I remember reading somewhere that these might not be the "good quality" studs? Can anyone comment on this?
Personally I wouldn't loosen them off, I'd just check they are all torqued to spec. Set the torque wrench to about half first, go around them in the correct order and confirm they all click. Then set to 75% and repeat. Then set to 100% and repeat. I remember reading something about the ARP2000 thing also. Pretty sure Rob260 is up to speed on this.
Have a look on the ARP website, where you can find information such as this. Do I need to re-torque my head bolts or studs? If you follow the ARP installation instructions, there should be no need to do a re-torque. However, it may be necessary under certain circumstances if the gasket manufacturer’s instructions require it, particularly if a fire ring has been installed. ARP recommends not doing a re-torque on a hot engine. Do I need lube on my bolts or studs? We recommend using ARP Ultra-Torque lube to ensure an even, accurate clamp load and to prevent thread galling. This is particularly important for stainless steel fasteners. The lube should be used under the head of the bolt or the bearing surface of the nut and on the threads, unless a thread sealer is used. Can I use Loctite or any thread locker instead of ARP Ultra-Torque assembly lube? Yes, you can. Some engine builders use blue Loctite on the stud end that goes into the block. Do NOT use Loctite on the nuts for the head studs or main studs. Always ensure that the threads are clean prior to applying any lube. When using Loctite, make sure you assemble the parts before the Loctite cures. You can use Loctite instead of ARP Ultra-Torque, but do not use them together. Do I have to use Ultra-Torque? We spent two years developing ARP Ultra-Torque and we have come up with what we believe to be the ultimate fastener lubricant. All of our torque values are based on using Ultra-Torque. We do not provide torque values for use with any other fastener assembly lubricant (such as motor oil, moly lube, etc.) Use these other lubes at your own risk, as their use may lead to a part or engine failure, for which we are not responsible. Do the threads of the bolts or studs going into the block need lube? Yes. On blind holes use a small amount of ARP Ultra-Torque lube on those threads. Additionally, if the studs protrude into a water jacket, you will need to clean the threads in the block to remove all coolant and oil residue. Apply a liberal amount of ARP thread sealer or a high temperature thread sealer. Are ARP bolts and studs re-usable? Yes. As long as the fasteners have been installed and torqued correctly, and show no visible signs of damage, they can be re-used. If they show any signs of thread galling or corrosion, they should be replaced. In the case of rod bolts, if any of them have taken a permanent set and have stretched by .001” or longer, you should replace them immediately. See page 29 in the catalog for more detailed information on this critical measurement. Do I install my studs into the block first? After test fitting the studs in the block, it is generally easier to remove the studs, put the head gasket and head on the block and install the studs. This will reduce the possibility of damaging the upper threads of the stud and scraping the cylinder mounting holes. If the block has no alignment dowel pins, you can use the stud to align the gasket and head. Does the chamfer on the inside diameter of the washer go up or down? The chamfered side of the washer goes up, towards the head of the bolt. The chamfer is there to create clearance for the radius between the bolt shank and the bolt head. Do the head studs only go in hand, or finger tight? Yes, cylinder head studs are installed only hand tight. Other than the use of an allen wrench on the hex broached into the end of the stud (to ease installation, not to apply torque), use no tools to seat them in the block. However, it is extremely important to ensure that the studs are fully bottomed out in the hole in the block and not hung up on damaged or corroded threads in the block preventing the stud from being fully seated. This is often indicated when the stud threads extend past the deck surface. I have heard that some people have had trouble with newly installed cylinder head studs leaking water. How do I make sure I don’t have the same problem with my new ARP head studs? Prior to installing your new head studs, it is very important that you have clean threads on both the block and the studs. First, clean up all the threads in the block with a thread-cleaning chaser, NOT a regular tap. Thread chasers are designed so that they do not remove material from threads but merely remove debris and corrosion. Make sure you go all the way to the end of the threads in the bottom of the hole. Then clean out all the holes in the block with brake or carburetor cleaner to remove all the debris. Make sure the threads on the new studs are clean. Use a liberal amount of ARP thread sealer, high temp silicone or Loctite to ensure that there will be no air pockets that can cause leaks. Then follow the ARP instructions for installing the fasteners. Are ARP’s torque recommendations the same as the vehicle manufacturer’s specifications? Sometimes ARP will recommend using torque specifications that are different than the manufacturer, but not always. Our kits are engineered for specific applications, factoring in the necessary clamp load we’re trying to achieve, material type, block or head material, etc. To achieve our target clamp load, it may be necessary to use a different torque figure than what the factory calls out.
Ok so things are not looking great. A visual only inspection and it looks like I have a crack in a cylinder wall, so yeah that sucks. Will get this checked out hopefully next week. So I might be looking for another engine block.... anybody got one?
