Hey guys. Bought the clutch fork conversion kit. From czp Gonna fit it tomorrow Is there any tips or tricks? Or is it as easy as a straight change over? Obviously changing the short pivot ball with clips and that but just curious so I don't get stuck. Any help is appreciated.
Easy thing to change over the fork and pivot ball. Taking out the gearbox however is one of the worst jobs in the world, more so than engine removal.
The Deacon and I tried to remove the engine with box left in place, spent a good half a day nearly just trying to get at the top bolt. 3 ft + of extensions, few uni joints and a lot of patience/booze. Should of pulled them together in retrospect.
Yep, super easy to do. Not sure what everyone is complaining about, dropping the box on a z32 is actually not that bad of a job. Box comes out and goes in fairly easily, and is light enough that you can move it around on your own. Can think of plenty other jobs on a zed that are much worse.
Heater core was done on mine and leaked. Rusted the top bolt and back of block and sealed it to the bell housing.
A mechanic mate told me to make it easier to get the top gearbox bolts out put a jack carefully under the front of the motor then undo the tail shaft then gear box mount then jack up the motor to tilt gear box back ( down at rear). You only need to tilt it a bit. I did this on my triton and it made it fairly easy to get to the top bell housing bolts with a couple of long socket extensions and a uni joint socket. May also help on a Zed if you are lucky. Cheers Dave
Thanks guys. Rob, yup I got the correct pivot ball including washer. Fork boot, new z32 bearing sleeve,bearing and the two clips plus the heavy style 350 fork itself. To the other guys, I've done box pull before it's not bad, shit thing is when you find out the previous mechanic has cross threaded half the bolts.... heaps of fun -_- Was just curious about the conversion itself. I assume I'll have to adjust the clutch but seems like it's gonna be easy to change the bits I'll let you all know tomorrow how I go.
Update. All done, only hard part was the pivot ball spring which way it should go. Got it in the end. I do have bad vibration at 3000rpm onwards now but I'm sure I missed something gearbox mount or tails haft related. My old fork and sleeve were rooted and that's what caused my issue in the 1st place. Reccomend this kit, it's genuinely a direct fit unlike most things.
You can see how worn the old fork and sleeve are,what happened was it slipped half off one side due to being round not square.
Was it a 350 pivot ball you fitted as well, it's it stronger than the 300's? Did you need to adjust the clutch pedal at all?
For the whole kit plus new bearing sleeve and direct clutch fluid line I paid 300 delivered. Yes it comes with the 350 shortened pivot ball. I'm told they are stronger. The pedal did not need adjusting either.
