Trust you to come along and point out 'the bleeding obvious'. :rofl: Why don't you just sit back and let the rest of us get our 'Jollies" from the myriad of posts that will emerge from this 'fixation with foam'(not the type that emanates from the mouths of rabid dogs)? After all, GB, 2/100ths of a second improvement in the time it takes to get to the Macca's Drive Thru, is big 'Street Cred' amongst the Acne & Hair Gel set.:zlove:[TIS]
Not to mention load that is transferred through seams etc rather than absorbed via movement. No such thing as a free lunch and all that. Bracing the suspension points to better maintain alignment geometry under load makes sense on an aggressively driven road car. Stiffening the chassis and unibody via seam welding such is just dumb unless the car spends the majority of it's life on a Tarmac.
All from a man that spent thousands into a high performance motor :rofl: ....and your wrong with 2/100ths of second - its actually 5/100ths of a second and this is the difference between a warm big mac and a hot big mac! [TIS] Forget the street cred when it comes to a hot big mac burger! You didn't go and buy some of those expensive braces for your Z did you? Fill me up with foam - I'm feeling rabid Providing some jolly excitement and a myriad of posts in response is clearly your plan here You are never dull in your posts Rob JC
Dear SuperZ(and any other like-minded types), It all depends on what you consider as being "a high performance engine". I would respectfully suggest that if you care to look at where my car fits into the "Dyno Queen" list on this site, you will see that it is far from the top of the list and you may also note that it was built for street use(not Drag Strip or Race Track)and as such, has had many years of untroubled daily usage, without the endless need to 'pull it apart on a daily/weekly basis'(which seems to be so frequently mentioned by others on here). My car is reliable, trouble-free, fun to drive, comfortable(as much as a Sports car can be comfortable)and far quicker than I have the ability to master(at my time of impending senility). I hope that several of those who read this, have the pleasure of discovering 'that which I already know' during their ownership of a Z32 TT.:zlove::br:
Hey Chilli Don't know why you posted this? Don't know why you directed this to me either? I strive to have the same principle as you - Doesn't have to be an over the top engine which I will never be able to use and will push the limits of reliability. It needs to be reliable, so that I can drive it without any failure - this is why I rebuilt mine from the ground up - so I could get to know the car and ensure it is reliable. I am positive that I could just drive it across the other side of Australia without any failure and at most just an oil change. I like my car to look nice, be comfortable and most importantly be reliable just like you do - Rust prevention is just a natural course of action for me to take as part of a long term strategy of maintaining it for a long time. I salute you on your principle of that which you already know and furthermore support in this principle of yours as it appears you are a like minded person! I am a true Z lover in that I would never get rid of my Z - it is just how I like my car in design, functionality and purpose! My Z is better in functionality and more reliable than a Ferrari - I really don't care about how fast it goes - it is already just to fast for me now as it is - I don't see the purpose of doing sub ten quarters or 300klmh! Having said that - I would like to drive it on a race track to really test my suspension mods out and see how it handles at the extreme limits - but that is just part of being a true and devoted Z lover! I salute you - even if I don't know why you posted it to me! :bow2: Long live Chilli! JC :zlove::zlove::zlove::zlove::zlove::zlove::zlove:
Perchance it was your reference to me "spending thousands on a High performance engine" that triggered my interest(and subsequent response)??? Who knows? Then again, maybe it was just the opportunity to indulge in some harmless repartee(with someone who just might recognize that small indulgence). Cheers Lloyd:zlove::br:
I hadn't noticed(until this post)as I don't normally read anything you put forward. This inexplicable deviation from my usual practice would seem to support my prior decision(to which, I will now revert).:rofl::br:
Ummm guys... you want to reduce/eliminate ANY flex in the chassis. It cant be too stiff. You want the suspension to control movement, NOT chassis flexing. This is true even for a mere shopping trolley. Not just try and "leave" some for a better ride/street handling or whatever FFS! That is NOT how it works. The V8sc analogy holds no water. We have to assuming the weight is the same as a road car and so-on! Some imagination needed here please. You start with one and dumb the suspension down to what amounts to road tuned suspension settings. Just some road-tuned shocks and matching springs and roll-bar settings. The now road going V8sc will simply crucify the flexy road car anywhere with more or less the same ride quality. No creaks and skwawking over driveways and youll certainly want to get your ride heights adjusted correctly!!!!!!. Either go all out or simply dont bother. There are so few of us who could EVER exploit the inherent negative issues of a flexing chassis no matter how rubbery it is in all but the most serious racing scenarios. E
Go E! Someone who seems to understand how things work Someone who understands that suspension is actually there for a reason Someone who understands in context, the existence of flex and its subsequent effect on something called metal fatigue! :bow2: .......for me personally it is actually a great way to reduce the chance of rust as well in the chassis rails over along period of time remembering that these cars are fairly old, sure foam has some air in it, but this stuff would be easy to get into the chassis rails and given it expands would reduce the possibility of rusting by insulating against water and salt - especially for those of us who live near the ocean where it is and can be an issue. ITS NOT LIKE THIS STUFF IS EXPENSIVE - SOME HERE NEED TO REMEMBER THIS IS A CHEAP PRODUCT and stop making it out to be worth the price of a huge gold bar! :bash: I am glad I came across this post and the subsequent responses Cheers all JC
Surely this is incorrect (I will fill in the blanks and sub a word ) What amazing load of foam this thread is full of and SuperZ made a good point on the previous page. Keep on mind that Nissan uses this stuff on their top end cars NOW. They tested it on the Z32 vert back then and use it on their new cars, so if it is good enough for those cars then it is good enough to retrofit. If it is cheap enough and easy enough to do, great. I think a flat level garage floor and adjustable axle stands under the load points of the car would be better than doing the car on its suspension. (Anyone disagree?) A few creaks starting to become noticeable behind the rattles these days. This stuff might stop that. If the foam is designed with an alkaline pH then it might be a rust inhibitor. Someone (a member) suggest it on the 4WD forum so they can test it for us
I have read hundreds of SuperZ replies. Not once have I ever remotely come to anywhere near that conclusion.
Umm look, mass produced cars are not left partially spot welded together with a view to allowing extra flexion to hopefully ward off cracking or provide some kind of better ride. They are done this way in the interests of speed of assembly and the very bottom line, cheapness. Despite the known advantages, which are many, its a very time consuming (read: EXPENSIVE) process to fully seam weld a car assembly. The car makers know this and is precisely why such funky methods are being employed as such processes become readily available rather than expensive and time consuming seam welding to achieve sufficient chassis rigidity whilst keeping manufacturing costs to a minimum. The benefits of welding are legion and indisputable. Unless there is a glaring design fault, adding additional stiffness to a car chassis does not in any way invite additional load dropping to the next weakest spot and produce cracking. Not going to happen. Due to reduced flexion, there a mighty good case for actually REDUCING cracking by seam welding/foam filling/fitting a cage or whatever method. The bending and twisting loadings can then be neatly passed onto each corner and dealt with in a progressive and flexible manner. This is precisely what suspension is designed for! If i had the time, inclination and a chassis rotisserie, Id have my Zed and Pullstart up on it and seam welded in an instant!!!! I simply cannot be bothered tho and i choose to put up with the flexibility which Im hard pressed to know about anyway. Id certainly try foam filling tho as a cost effective alternative. E
Seems to me that 'foaming a Zed' would be a fairly easy service for a forum member who specializes in Zed's and already deals with suppliers, has a garage, knows his way around a Zed to quickly raise it on stands, pull off cover strips, take out seats, knows where to drill a hole or two and get the job done quickly. Only thing I can think of is the curing time, might be annoying for a business because the car would have to be foamed in the evening and allowed to cure overnight or weekend and then put the seats and cover sills back in early morning.
