Ok cool, well i will test out how the 200Nm struts work. If its suitable and can withstand the extra weight that Amandas hatch has (Hiro Spoiler) and isnt too strong for my Brazilian hatch, we can arrange the appropriate lengths. Issue is the cheaper 'of the shelf' kind of struts are all over the shop in size and strength, where as an exact to the original maybe more expensive. Really need to find the lengths for the 2+2 and i can sort something out for them. We have a dyno day coming up in Adelaide, so if at worst i can get the details from some local members zeds.
I bought mine from the staes for about40 i think if interested i find the invoice and post the address They came within 5 days in a tube and included new supports all i had to do was screw them in 5 min job literally it bwas cheaper than regassing in terms of cost and labour Bythw that price included shipping
Here is one on US ebay for $50 plus shipping Maybe the part no SG225010 will help. Looks like it's the same strut for 2+0 and 2+2
OK! 2+2 Hatch Strut. 780mm total overall length(fully extended). Body length = 400mm. Shaft length = 315mm. I don't need any as I bought new ones a year ago(but this is my only chance to measure something with a tape-measure, without being accused of something sleazy).:rofl::rofl:
OK... Stock 2+2 hatch 'dead weight' is 25kg. I can confirm that the rod and body end are 8mmx1.25mm threads with ball ends. Going to speak to people at my end now regarding options.
Prices from strut re-gas australia are: $95 to reco old struts (if servicable) $155 for a new pair. Found this too:
Hello all, I live in SA and here we have a guy that can regas original struts and completely reconditions them for a fraction of the price of new ones. He is klocated at Glenelg and if you send me and email I can forwaard you his details. I have used him before and he is great. He can even make the struts more rigid or softer as you like .
I'm new to this Zed owning. The hatch wouldn't stay up. Got my struts redone by the same guy at Glenelg. Excellent job and good customer service.
If anyone's got a hatch which sometimes won't stay up or tends to go soft (hahah, sounds like a dick), I've found that removing this stupid weight (as if these cars don't weigh enough already!) always does the trick. And is an easy going 4 minute solution + it's free!
I was going to get the struts regassed, but in the meantime had the rear spoiler removed to prevent rust damage to the hatch (because of water accumulating under the warped spoiler). Incidental consequence - sufficient weight was removed from the hatch to make the struts effective again.
Both excellent solutions I found that my struts only held the hatch up on really hot days, so I bought a set from a forum member which seemed to work a bit better. Took a while to realise that one of them was slightly bent. I called the mobile strut regass guy and they came over to look at my 2 sets of struts. Rolled the kink out. Quoted a price to drill and tap four struts and then pressure test to see if they will hold gas. OR just buy a pair of thicker Z1 style struts that will raise the hatch (if enough pressure in them) from just using the boot release lever. Same price [YT]uiofhfgs-PY[/YT] He did a couple of tests and it was determined that to Z1 style raise the hatch required enough pressure that a 50kg kid would not be able to close the raised hatch. So anyone who is gassing their hatch struts so they can pickup their GF with her shopping, without getting out of the drivers seat is not going to be happy. The other issue with the design of out struts/mounting angle is that it is too horizontal, which means the seals are not always coated in oil and on hot days the over pressure gas they use (not argon) is going to expand passing the seal. It is not possible to reverse the direction of the struts to ensure the seals stay in oil when closed because the hatch plastic inner is fouling that idea.
