VIC Workshop Weekend Part 2! Sunday 26th May

Discussion in 'Coming Events' started by DotDotDot, May 19, 2013.

  1. DotDotDot

    DotDotDot Member

    After the last tech day:

    http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=323165

    My car was virtually restored, from being a Junker that had been trashed and stolen and stripped, to a decent looking car that just needed a Front Bumper Re-spray, so a Thank-you to everyone that came last time, I do owe you guys a beer or 10.

    The suspension had been overhauled, steering re-done and engine and gearbox installed, however it turns out the HeadGaskets or rings were Effed :(, first time I drove here home I could barely reach 80kms on WOT D: (I'll be getting Comp figures on the Tech Day)

    So this is a part 2, I have sourced another engine (NA, good comp, confirmed running) to install, I know this sounds incredibly tedious, so I will be taking extra care to make sure everything is okay before the install.


    Anyways, I would appreciate it if people would be able to come and help me out with these things:

    1. Removal of the old NA Engine, strip it off clutch and flywheel, injectors and coilpacks.
    2. Plenum Pull the New NA Engine while it is outside the car, and replace the injectors and do a bypass if necessary.
    3. Install a New engine harness with engine out of car (Old one was hacked up by Bryan.
    4.Install New NA and route all the Manual Wiring for the Speedo and Reverse lights.

    OPTIONAL THINGS:

    Raise the car, and install gaskets for the exhaust to quieten the bastid for Roady.



    It will be held at the same place as last time, 612 Autoworx at 2/12 Amay Crescent Ferntree Gully.


    Food and Drinks will be supplied again, as well as my everlasting thanks.


    Numbers!


    Sunday 26th May 10am ? 10pm:

    1. DotDotDot
    2.
    3.
    4.
    5.
    etc


    My number is 0433 763 559, text me if you have any questions or suggestions, or just simply contact me on the forum.

    Cheers Everyone!.

    PS: There will be photos/Go Pro's/Cameras around, so if you want to take some good pics for your cars with everyone (depending on the weather) that day is the day!.
     
  2. bRACKET

    bRACKET Do Right Dean

    I'll do what I can do help out man
     
  3. Peter Black

    Peter Black Active Member

    I'm up at Winton that day unfortunately, sorry.

    You should do fine this time though, much much easier the second time around.
     
  4. 8300zx9

    8300zx9 Active Member

    I should be ok to help out... One question though, One day for all that??

    1. DotDotDot
    2. bRACKET
    3. 8300zx9
    4.
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  5. DotDotDot

    DotDotDot Member

    Yeah it will be on a very tight schedule, ill be attempting to do the plenum pull work the previous day with the engine out of the car, and ill be marking the new oem loom to make it easier to get the car fired up.

    The biggest challenge will be getting the tranny off and on, and luckily ill have a hoist for that.
     
  6. East Coast Z

    East Coast Z Well-Known Member

    To speed things up you need to do as much preparation as you can prior to the day.
    Gather ice cream containers or something similar for your nuts & bolts & lable the containers so you know where the parts came from.
    Remove the plenum from the replacement engine now, clean & prepare parts for reassembly.
    Also, check the detonation sensor & harness, a lot easier to change with the plenum already off & the engine out of the car.
    Degrease the engine/s & flush the cooling system.
    Obtain new vacuum, fuel & water hoses so you can change them when the engine is out.
    Get new oil & filter as well as coolant.
    What's the clutch like, maybe parts are required?
    Start soaking nuts & bolts in WD40 or Penetrene now.
    Obtain CRC CO Contact Cleaner or similar, to clean electrical connections as well as Dielectric grease to seal them when reassembled.
    Have plenty of good rags available & hand cleaner.
    Maybe some electrical insulation tape & cable ties.
    Also some quality gasket sealer, loctite & anti sieze won't go astray.
    Give the replacement engine a thorough going over, it's easier to work on when it's out of the car, if you have the equipment available, give the engine a leak down test.
     
  7. badxtc

    badxtc kirby's bitch

    why ,,, what was wrong with that engine you got from a forum member?
     
  8. lico

    lico New Member

    Yeah, seems a bit of a jump to say "the headgasket or rings are gone" because it's not running right...

    Is it blowing smoke? If so what colour?

    Is it firing on all cylinders? If not have you checked spark and fuel on said cylinders? Have you tried PTU/AFM and other sensors to correct the problem etc?

    I'd be 10000% sure the motor you have installed is fried before you go whacking another one in there on free forum members time.

    And as I understand it, you haven't yet picked up the motor from Noel and hence are going to struggle to get it prepped in time (allow yourself a full day if you haven't done this before).

    I'd be paying someone (even a slab of beer will do) to diagnose your problem before you dive headfirst into this.
     
  9. DotDotDot

    DotDotDot Member

    Yeah I've gone through the motions, I'll list what was I found out:

    Exhaust was blowing white smoke with a sweet smell.
    Exhaust had bits of coolant spitting out.
    Spark Plugs were getting wet with coolant and fuel in about 10 seconds of running.
    I ohm'ed all injectors, checked for tapping and continuity and all were working Checked all spark plugs for firing, swapped coil packs and spark plugs around and all were working, but Cylinders 4 and 6 weren't firing, even went through 3 Series 2 Ptu's.
    Radiator was constantly bubbling after 1 hour of running, especially when I revved the car, flushed it and noticed oil was in coolant.
    The car, even though on four cylinders at the time, could NOT reach 80 on WOT.

    I've cleaned MAF, TPS and CAS sensors, Checked MAF for voltage, came back 1.5 vdc, cleaned MAF hotwire. (The Engine Does Rev Freely, but very slowly)

    Replaced Fuel filter, tested that fuel was coming into the engine by taking off my new fuel line in front of the filter and aiming it away (In a garage), it shot about 4 meters away, so fuel was at least flowing.

    I will be checking compression before the day (On Wednesday) to confirm fully, if the numbers come back fine I'm going to be very confused, but I will cancel the tech day if that's the case.

    Also, I will be working on the engine the day before to do maintenance and get her ready.

    If anyone has any other suggestions please let me know so I can do the tests, but most of these are pointing to a bad situation.
     
  10. DotDotDot

    DotDotDot Member

    Hey,

    Thanks for the suggestions!
    The Clutch on the Old Engine is almost a brand new OEM that looked like it had been used in 1 or 2 drag runs according to another Forum Member with plenty of experience.

    Where would I be able to get the parts for a leak down test for a zed? Would a local autobarn/supercheap do?

    I've given the engine a once over, but I will be doing some work on it the day beforehand.
     
  11. ZYTRAM

    ZYTRAM Formerly known as martini_Z

    Hey Aidan,

    Looks like you've got your work cut out for you.. Should be free to come and lend a hand!

    1. DotDotDot
    2. bRACKET
    3. 8300zx9
    4. martini_Z
    5.
     
  12. ABZ300

    ABZ300 G

    Aidan as we talked about, i should be good to come past in the morning but will most likely have to leave early. Let me know if you need me to bring anything

    1. DotDotDot
    2. bRACKET
    3. 8300zx9
    4. martini_Z
    5. ABZ300

    Abraham
     
  13. Peter Black

    Peter Black Active Member

    Have you got a clutch alignment tool this time? If not you can borrow mine if you like but be careful with it, it's not actually mine :p

    I'll be away all weekend but if you'll be at the workshop tonight or tomorrow night I can drop it off.
     
  14. lico

    lico New Member

    Go grab a compression tester they're really cheap and good to have anyways, maybe even one with a leak down tester if you can get a kit for a good price.

    But yeah, sounds like a majorly blown headgasket if it's compression->oil->water and with that badly gone its most likely the heads are cactus as well.

    That motor you're getting from Noel was running fine before pulling so should be okay. Start dressing it with whatever you can before you get there. The motor is also complete with all accesories and belts so will make it a piece of piss to drop straight in BUT you will need to check everything before so you dont have any issues once it's in.

    -Comp test the new motor,If one is down then wet comp test it to diagnose.If bad rings then not worth putting it in.
    -Clean ALL connectors and plugs (properly, look it up) on the new motor. CAS, TPS, 02s etc.
    -CLEAN THE INJECTORS see below, you will not want to have to do this or replace them when the motor is in.
    -Test that the injectors are working by hooking up 12v to the fuel rail (while the rail iss off) and check that the solenoids are working properly and that the injectors are spraying a fine mist (just squirt carb cleaner into the rail and block the other end then activate each injector one at a time while pressuring one end of the rail. this will clean them and check solenoid actuation and spray.

    -Test things such as PCV valves etc are functioning correctly (dont want to blow a rear main seal)
    -Check hoses for cracks or splitting, heater hoses GET NEW ONES.
    -Buy all new vacuum line that can be cut to size

    -Clean all connectors on your good na loom (or better yet use a new one).
    -Check loom for bad corroded wiring, connections or even breaks. If it feels hard and brittle then it can easily break when moving it around to attach it to the new motor.

    -Do all the deletes and bypasses on your plenum while its out and off. **** EGR off and maybe PCV.
    -Check water pipes and around water pump for rust. This is a sign of leaking and therefore shitted pump or hoses. The motor was good and not leaking but it's been sitting for a year so consider doing the water pump anyway due to the water sitting in it causing rust.

    Make sure you go overboard and do everything right for peace of mind and so you aren't just pulling it out again in 6 or 12 months.
     
  15. Wildzx

    Wildzx New Member

    Very good advice, doing these will help the install go smoothly. Sorry I can't be there to help but I'm only a phone call away. :)
     
  16. DotDotDot

    DotDotDot Member

    Heya Pete,

    Was looking for one around the shops, but couldn't find any and I don't have time to buy one off the net, I'll probably be going to the workshop tonight around 8pm or so, if you could pm me your number I'll give you a text/buzz to let you know what's going on.

    Cheers.
     
  17. bRACKET

    bRACKET Do Right Dean

    Don't tell me you got another motor without a comp test before hand?
     
  18. jamersss

    jamersss Member

    1. DotDotDot
    2. bRACKET
    3. 8300zx9
    4. martini_Z
    5. ABZ300
    6. jamersss
     
  19. DotDotDot

    DotDotDot Member

    Doing a leak down test tonight or tomorrow, if It doesn't come back a-ok I'm cancelling the tech day.
     
  20. DotDotDot

    DotDotDot Member


    Cheers for the advice!

    I've been working all day on the engine and have done a coolant bypass, removed all the EGR components except the solenoid, will be blocking it all off and just keeping it there for now (long story)

    PCV Valves I will be doing tomorrow, doing a re-route which stops the smoking at heavy right turns and simplifies the whole system.

    Pulled the Clutch off and need to buy a breaker bar to get rid of the flywheel, they both seem rather heavily used, but I've got a close to brand new oem clutch and fly on the other engine.

    Will be doing a leak down test tomorrow, just need to figure out how to get the cylinders to TDC first.

    Cleaned the injectors and rail, ohm'ed all to spec (12).

    Already bought a new loom, will be marking that and attaching it on to the motor tomorrow, gonna see if I can drill out the bits that block me from swapping the loom tomorrow.

    Cleaned all the connectors using contact spray and a nail file.

    I'll be swapping my brand new heater hoses from the old motor onto the new one, it seems it has been bypassed already, I'll be undoing that, it's fooking cold atm haha.

    I didn't think of doing the water pump, I'll see If I can pull it out and clean it tomorrow, thanks for letting me know!

    Cheers,

    Aidan
     

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