Okay guys, I've run out of ideas. Just fitted a known good engine into car that had a seized motor and had been idle for 3-4 years Good engine came out of my track car when I upgraded earlier in year. The engine fires on one or two cyls and then dies, it keeps doing this for up to five minutes before the engine catches and runs perfectly (like a sewing machine) Initially at 1500rpm reducing to normal idle speed once the engine warms up. TPS .46 IACV valve has been changed three times to known good ones FPCV changed to known good one. Fuel Pump changed to known good one FPCU bypassed Water temperature sensor changed for known good one Have fuel, spark and compression. Another abnormality is that once the engine reaches ~70deg smoke starts appearing from both exhausts, (looks like oil smoke). If I rev the engine to say 3000rpm and hold for around 15secs the smoke disappears and no matter how long the engine idles after that the exhausts are clear as a bell. This engine has no EGR. Exhausts are separate. Any suggestions that are physically possible would be most appreciated I'm pulling what little bit of hair I have left out Martin
Should have added that I have also drained old fuel and refilled with 98RON. Also if I hold throttle slightly open it starts more easily but still not great. I know this points tp IAcv but as I have said I know I have a working one in there
Have you tried a series 2 p.t.u ?. Do you have a H or X pipe in the exhaust ? if not it might be the cause of the smoke.
Good be something simple like incorrect plugs or plugs on the way out. Usually shows up on richer conditions, and cold start is certainly that.
Errrmm, post whore here but...... how in blazes could the addition of an X, H, T or S-bend pipe in the exhaust have ANY influence on engine smoking after startup?????? For mine, the smoking will be some oil leaked, either into the inlet or the exhaust from the turbo which is heating up and then burning off. Its quite common for well used turbos to do this from their arse end. Might even be blowby oil pooled up and laying in the inlet from the pcv system making its way thru the motor. Could be quite a few issues but in my view is to be largely ignored unless it suddenly gets worse.
It can't in this case, it would only be a theory on consistant smoke, but it apparantly can be the cause of premeture exhausts-side turbo seal failure. Has something to do with exhaust pulses, resonance, vacume and 3 cylinders. Apparantely on a pure dual system, on idle, the vacume created between pulses can draw oil through the seal, and a merge pipe in the exhaust counters this...I remain a sceptic, as I ran a pure dual system for years with no problemo's And you are a post whore...everytime I post now I just know that you will be along shortly...
Awwwhawhawhaw sounds like a "bullshite baffles brains" kind of copout explaination for a "fekked iffen I know" headscratch eh?!!! I suppose a change from 15-50 to 16-52 weight oil would cure the leaking octoplex snocket valve from the protruding grindlewire which in turn impacts on the epicurean mandelbrot set fuzzy logic action?? Drawing oil past the seal....... idle pulses and other twaddle!!!!!! What a load of bollocks! Now, I know you love me Andy so dont you go clicking into gear as well!!!!!!!!! Co-inkiedink my good man! last thing I like doing is following a dude closely around! L8r E
PRVR system only works on a hot engine..... The "fuel pressure increase" system only functions on hot starts, theoretically ... to avoid "vapourlock"
I said the same thing until adding a merge pipe fixed a lot of peoples smoking at idle problems here...
I dunno Chris... Id have to see that before Ill swallow it. However, if you say so then sobeit! L8r E
seeing some cylinders seem to fire up OK, Maybe you have an issue with flooding. Injector Orings OK? Some could be leaking into the cylinders flooding them and making cold starts hard. Supported by the fact if you hold the throttle open during starting it fires. Typical flooded cylinder firing solution. Check fuel pressure after its turned off and see if its falling off quickly after engine stop. It should hold pressure for hours.
Tassuperkart it was a suggestion to check and as crazy as it seem Chrispy is right. I had the same issue and was told i had major engine/turbo troubles requiring major $$ being spent. I posted up my symptons and one of the replys was saying to check for a X - H pipe and if i didn't have one get one fitted. I was getting new mufflers fitted that week for a roadworthy so asked the exhaust bloke to fit one. He is a well known performance exhaust bloke and told me it was bullshit and would not make a difference but if i insited he would do it for $30. Guess what ? it was the best $30 i spent on the Z. The exhaust bloke said it was just plain crazy but you learn something every day. Don't be so quick to write things off just because it sounds crazy. Someone once said man would walk on the moon one day. Any way not having a go at you just saying sometime even the craziest ideas work. It was a suggestion to look under the car and see if there was such a pipe then for $30 why not try it before going over the car as you never know your luck. Cheers Dave
That was my initial thought BUT...... when I re-read the opening post I realised his Air Regulator was okay. Normal function for Air Regulator, initial high idle.... dropping off as the bimetal strip heats up, closing the valve. Try increasing your "hard idle" just a fraction and see if that helps.
You replaced the CTS with a known good one? I'd be checking with consult all the sensor values including the CTS, as just because a sensor is working, doesn't mean the signal is making it back to the ECU. Open circuit on the CTS tells the ECU the coolant temp is 120 degsC and that will totally retard the timing and also alter the mixtures, making it difficult to start, run like a dog while cold, and be down on power when warm. Those with Nistune can actually view the temperature tables to see what the ECU does with idle speed, timing and mixture as temps go over 90 degs
