Really worth signing up mate, yes there's a few wankers over there buts theres actually heaps of really good info that you might be needing in the near future. Plus you'll get to see more of this... cheers, Tim
Damnit, I really didn't want to sign up, oh well, I guess I have to now, looks very cool. Also, still has ABS. Pansy. Except for the bare metal seat, that might redeem his manhood a bit.
Thanks, I joined 300ZXC to look through your build, some great stuff and I think it's probably saved us a fair bit of trial and error which is highly appreciated, especially the Lexan stuff, we were planning on moulding it pretty much the same way you did but have never played with the stuff before so it's good to have a nice how-to to follow. I was going to post a thank you there but can't post there yet so here will have to do. Not more extreme, just better at it than us.
Small Update: Ben and I spent a bit of time over the weekend, got most of the trim out and got rid of the damp carpet which has helped dry everything out and make it much nicer to work in. Pulling out all sorts of odd air con and climate control stuff under the dash and trying to untangle at least 2 if not more immobilizers is keeping me busy. I've also removed all the cables from the boot and fuel filler flap releases and am working on much simpler versions of both of them. Some pictures: Also, what are these bars and are they structural or do they just hold trim in place?
Nice going Pete. They are non structural, in a chassis sense. SoI think you can send these to the recyclers. Have you done a before an after weigh-in yet?
Unfortunately not, we were hoping to weigh it before we started pulling bits off but as the car was not mobile the cost of towing it too and from a weighbridge or the like did not seem worthwhile so we'll just have to settle for an after weigh in. We are also looking at cutting some really big bits off so hopefully it will be nice and light. The hatch is damn heavy so that's being replaces, hopefully with a fibreglass copy and lexan replacing the glass. Also, do we really need any of the shell behind the back wheels? Any idea what it costs to acid dip a car? More than I can afford I guess.
Dont worry about acid dipping, I would just get into it with a 9inch grinder. Don't be afraid to get stuck into the suspension subframes as well. Wish I was a bit closer and could help.
Yeah, I thought acid dipping would be overkill. As much as anything I wanted to do it to see the process and such more than needing the end result. A lot to pay to satisfy curiosity though. There will be plenty of grinding happening. If you're over this way again I'll put on a little tech day with barbecue and some drinks, we may even get around to playing with the cars!
That side holds the ABS Actuator. I actually trimmed mine down to nothing but gutted a bunch out of it in a project called LOWFATZ. Mine after a trim. Here is the link to the build if this gave you a stiffie. -> http://www.300zxclub.com/showthread.php?t=182092
It took us about 5 hours to get to that point by the way, I'm pretty surprized how quickly everything came out. I should work in an illegal chop shop Everything behind the dash has to come out, then I think things will start to slow down a lot. Ben
At our current rate we should get the engine out in half an hour and have it all back together and running late next week... I think we have indeed almost run out of quick stuff, I'm not looking forward to getting the sound deadening out for a start. Plans for this weekend are to pull the engine, get rid of everything behind the dash as Ben has said and start on the fiddly little bits... Pictures to come.
Pete - if you kee the bits ou have removed, I can bring my scales over and we can weight the bits - body, engine, various bits etc. Wont be a big deal (but not this or next weekend as I am prepping the car for Winton this weekend and at Winton VMRC Rond 1 next weekend). Maybe labour day ?? RB
Thanks Robin, I was hoping to be able to weigh it before I started pulling it to bits but as it was not mobile and I was only weighing it out of curiosity I didn't try too hard. Once I have got it stripped right down to the bare bones I might take you up on that offer to see what it weighs nd where the weight is to try to balance it as well as I can when I build it back up again. I doubt we'll be at that stage by labour weekend to be honest. I'll let you know when we're at that stage and we'll see if we can sort out a date suitable for both of us, thanks again for the offer.
Good luck with the MG Rob..........I'll keep my fingers crossed you have a better run with the engine this season.
Engine out. Ben came over on saturday and we got stuck into getting the engine out. It was pretty easy in the end cosidering we are a couple of n00bs, we've done an engine swap in a Skyline and that's about it for things like this. We were pretty confindent we'd do it easily but really had no partictuarly good reason to be so confident... Took the engine and gearbox out as one and left the crossmember in place, there was a bit of jiggling to clear the crossmember but not too bad. I nearly caught a whack in the head with the tailshaft, I'd forgotten how heavy those things are. I think poor Andymac is lucky to be alive after copping one to his head, especially if it was the standard 2pce shaft. I also noticed the rear swaybar is really tiny compared with the one from my Aus spec, here's a picture of them together. The one from the slicktop is 16mm thick and the Aus spec one is 21mm, anyone know why this would be? Some pictures of the engine coming out: Getting the headers around the steering rack: Removing some last minute wires we missed, note the seriously pimpin' glowing rope, we do these things with style: And done: Exhaust is removed but one cat was still in there: Heaps of stuff on the back of the engine that can go, also rather odd heater core bypass: So far we are working on the assumption that this engine is beyond salvation so it's going to be the guinea pig for lots of stuff we may be interested in doing on the engine we end up using. While were at it, not the best picture to show it but what's the computer in the bottom right of the image (behind passenger seat) with '04' on it?
This is maybe forward thinking a little too far ahead, but I think Peter and I agree we're going to rewire the whole car... there are just epic amounts of wiring that we're not going to use, although I think we just want to simplify things more than anything else, there's so much I'd guess we're pushing 10kg worth of wires and associated garbage as well. I'm sure I've missed some things here but when it comes down to it I'd estimate this is about all there is in terms of senrors/wiring needed: On the engine: Injectors Spark CAS Temp sensor Variable timing if used Alternator Starter motor Gearbox speed sensor O2 sensors Possible aftermarket engine management, don't know what a standard ECU would do with so many inputs ultimately missing. Elsewhere: Fuel pump Fuel level Tail lights Maybe headlights Maybe indicators Windscreen wipers Gauges A few switches I hate dealing with electricals but the above doesn't look that daunting. The thing I'm not sure of (and I don't think Peter is either) is where relays and fuses come into this... does anyone know a good link that give an idea of how to go about all this? Ben
Oh! That would be a fun job Engine harness I wouldn't change, you wouldn't be able to pull much out of that besides 1 wire for aircon Body loom on the other hand... I'd rip it all out and start again. Leave the basics in there for things like standard gauges conzult etc, it's only 10 wires or so and that comes off a seperate plug for the ECU loom. Rip all the stereo, lighting, aircon etc wiring out and get a basic relay box and wire it up (few people make them, I'd guess Painless Wiring would be the place to start). Just use toggle switches for headlights and connect the brake switch up for brakes. Once you get into it wiring is pretty easy.
