Situation I bought this TT 2 seater Slicktop though it's damaged and not classed a write-off, guy didn't have insurance and couldn't bother repairing it. 2 weeks ago when I went to check the car I had the original idea to get a TT thats damaged body-wise with a good engine and put it in my NA Z which is a 2+2 T-Top. Cars' been sitting in the yard for 18 months and struggled to start at first, but when it started it was sweet. Issue When the car came to me by tow last week, it started up when openning the throttles just to roll it down to my driveway, again assuming it struggles to start sometimes due to sitting around stationary for 18 months. The next day I try to start it up, only clicks then no electricals at all. Changed to new battery, all electricals work fine, alarm going off etc. lol But it won't start. It tries to, but just won't. Probably spark plug issue?? I want to check the condition of the engine before starting work on it, give it a service change the engine oil, filter since its been sitting for a while. What do you guys recommend to do to an engine been sitting this long?? Decision Anyway, after a while looking at this damaged Z... had this crazy idea, I want to rebuild it and get it running. I realise the cost and time involved, but I just want to see this Z running again. Thought I'd make a thread about the progress of this, if this goes ahead I have a big order from CoZ and to save on shipping would be good to combine with guys here who need parts from CoZ, and some parts from Z1 probably late this year or early next year. Just giving the heads up. Here are some pics of the damaged Z.. I feel so bad for this Z I just really want to fix it up.. it had a veilside so maybe thats what caused the accident? :rofl: -YakuzaMoon
I wouldn't bother man. Get a cheap rolling shell and put all the good bits in that. That will cost you an absolute mint to get repaired properly.
Rolling shell will be best option?? You mean just transfer the engine and seats into an empty Z shell?? Can't believe I didnt think of that lol are these shells hard to obtain in Vic?? -YakuzaMoon
+1, just stick with your original plan to transplant the engine into your 2+2. Take the engine and all other required bits out onto a stand / boxes, and dump the rest of the wreck at the metal scrapper, then decide what to do. That wreck is worth more in scrap metal.
haha nice subtle sarcasm there Well you could've had my totally running slicktop NA for 3k which would have made a great TT transplant option. Guy in qld picked one up for 2.5k not running I think. They are there, you just need to find them. Think about how much needs to be replaced (that you can SEE). And that panel above the side of the rear bumper doesn't come off as far as i know, that will need to be cut out and a donor piece welded in
Guess you're right man. Just hate to see a slicktop go lol I guess I will have to part it and take the engine and required bits and sell bits and pieces and then get rid of it.. Thanks for the input! -YakuzaMoon
mate rolling shells are always going for around the 1500-3000 mark it would be way cheap plus a crashed car is never the same handling wise everything is bent up, cheaper just to get a rolling shell and sell that bonnet to me
LOL well when I part it out you can have the bonet, not my style. Not a fan of the rims either.. -YakuzaMoon
As for what to do with the motor this is what I would do: Dump the oil and have a look at condition. Coolant in it is a bad sign. A bit of fuel or water isn't the end of the world. If there is coolant then it will require a rebuild/head gasket change. If no coolant in oil then fill it up with some cheap stuff, do a compression test. If good then you could just chuck it in your NA or another zed. Just do a 100K service and plenum pull to make sure you don't swear at it too much when you do get it running As for the why it's not starting, could be a few things. Crap fuel, blocked/seized injectors, electrical issues, alarm issues etc. No way would I try and fix that blue zed. If you're keen you could chop the roof off and keep the trim to stick on a 2+0 targa And keep the 1/4 windows out of it, slicktop 1/4 glass is different to 2+0 glass
I'll be parting it out soon but its an auto sadly.. Sorry man! I also need a manual conversion lol So I'll have 2 auto gearboxes to sell when I part this. -YakuzaMoon
Will do sticking to original plan of engine swap. Headlights are still good and so is entire interior. Will make a list of parts next time for you guys! -YakuzaMoon
Thanks bro Will do a full check on it and see if I can get it started up again. Will stick to an engine swap in my NA! Thanks again for the input! -YakuzaMoon
For the record...... I've straightened cars with worse damage & I've seen cars with far greater damage also fixed up as good as new From the pix, the front damage is difficult to see, it appears only to be a slightly damaged front guard and some suspension arms....posiably radiator support panel aswell although the bonnet still lines up well.... All that = nothing major The rear hatch is a simple case of unbolt, left hand, right shoulder, bolt up a replacement The above damage could be fixed/replaced on an easy Saturday with time for a few elbow excersizes included The rear 1/4 however....is a few of days of grief on its own even with the right tools/gear at hand BUT.... ceratinly NOT imposiable to do A good PortaPower will see the righthand damage pop back with little effort, by pushing the lefthand side from the righthand side wheel arch & some well placed wood offcuts to spread the load around the entire rear end can easily be pushed back to almost straight..... probaly allow a Saturday morning of slow an steady work for the RHS. So a day n a half later.... we have the worst of it done..... there's just that fugly LHS rear 1/4 and its a simple as fix belive it or not ... Find another zed that has a good LHS rear 1/4 and get it cut off ( include the internal skin up to the sub-chassis).. Now you have a choice to make....... Either .... 1/ cut the same area off the blue zed and simply join on the replacement or 2/ trim away the worst of the external damage and simply skin over it with the replacement. PRO v's CON 1/.... very time consuming, difficult to get 100% cut lines to line up exactly, difficult to fully weld all the joins on the internal sections, minimal panel distortion = minimal bog work structurally as good as new no telltale signs of damage ever happening once completed properly TIME: For a skilled opperator about 2 n half days to "ready for bog" for semi skilled.... 4 days to "ready for bog" for a first timer ...... a month of w/ends :rofl: ( + a few nights ) 2/.... much faster process for inital "fitted", overlaying it eliminates time spent in alignment with "cuts", simple spot welds will be quicker and easier to re-cut if it needs "tweaking", panel distortion a major issue = I hope you like bog work & sanding structurally not as good as "factory" interal telltale signs WILL be evident TIME: For a skilled opperator about a day to "ready for bog" for semi skilled.... 2 n a half days to "ready for bog" for a first timer ...... a couple of w/ends If it was in my shed...... I'd fix it, but thats just me Kingy p/s A PortaPower is an awsome tool, one that should be in most car lovers sheds, mine is usualy in my shed but its been known to travel to more motorsport complexes than I do....... the problem is lending it to all ya motor racer mates and wondering when it will come home
&...... option 3 contact Gonzo Buy a wide body kit Fit it over the damage & drive it :br: quickest simplest and easiest way
Sorry, Kingy, ive been around smash shops my whole life, and ive seen cars worse than that repaired too, but that is not a 2 day repair. Also you dont even know how bad its gone underneath. with that heavy damage on the corner of the quarter that would be a very difficult repair without putting a section in it. then youve got the dent further forward on that panel and one on the otherside which id say will not just pop out since there is a big crease at the top edge. That car would be a 2 week repair at a shop, not 2 days. then on top of that you've got basically a full respray. Not an easy repair and uneconomical to say the least
