Tektraders race car build, (Or how to spend cash faster than you can make it! )

Already has, Last I looked I was up to $25K including car I have bought more since then.

God knows what it would be if I had to buy at full price the stuff that was in the car already that I got cheap. ( like the engine rebuild, MOTEC and coilovers etc)

You cant take it with you !!

If I thought I could get back close to what i had spent on the road car. I would sell it and just have this one. But thats not going to happen unfortunately.

 

definitely not a cheap car to build ..I stopped counting and thats just the parts

 

A mate asked me what I had spent on mine a couple of years ago, we were sitting in a pub so I started adding things up, got to $50K & just walked off to the bar for a vodka, when I got back I changed the subject :rofl:

That's not to say if I started from a fresh car now it would cost $50K to replicate what I have. When you have things like rebuilding turbos that still smoked & had to be replaced anyway later the cost gets out of control really fast

 

MCA suspension is brilliant, have a full set on my Z. Planning any other suspesnsion mods like Unique has done?

Bugger how much it costs, better than spending it on hookers and coke, err?

 

Far out....

 

Funny you should talk about suspension geometry mods. I have been talking to JP for ythe last year about what he discovered and solved as regards the suspension and ride height.

I have everything possible adjustable and rosejointed in this car. BUT there are a lot of issues with bump steer etc if you just wind down the Coilovers.

Before I rip off all the stock parts I intend to pull off the coilovers and graph out the suspension geometry changes over the full range of movement at stock ride height. To lower the car say 2 inches will need the suspension mounting points themselves raised by that same 2 inches. Along with other factors like the lock bar mounting etc etc. then start with the adjustable parts at stock lengths and adjust to sort out bump steer tow change etc etc. I dont for a minute think this is easy but has to be done.

Nissan got it right at stock ride height. Shame that most coil over lowered cars actually handle much worse than stock.

I think a 50mm or lowering is about right without going too stupid on subframe and front chassis mods.

 

Ben, dont you sell that Stingray. I am still working on Jenny till she gives in and I can buy it.

 

i think this car should be tested by me ,( so i can test the shit out of it ) I'm not sure you can handle the power tekky . ill let you know how it goes ..
how do you like them apples

 

How are you going to mount this?

 

You will never reach the pedals small fry

 

If you look at the under dash i have the stock brace bar as well as the cage almost right behind each other. I need to make a mount that will hang off those. I am going to use the stock throttle pedal if i can.

Main issue is how to get the pedals in the right spots around the steering column. The stock ones are bent pretty dramaticaly to get the pedals in the right spots. Since these are alloy i am not sure how i am going to sort that.

What I can tell you is the stock column is going and will be a chrome molly version with the collapsable cage removed. It weighs a tonne and since you have a harness on you are not going to hit it. The outter cage of the column is really heavy so i will cut it off leaving just the bearing's etc.

JP says the pedal box will fit if the column is narrower which my one will be.

So its all down to cutting and welding to get it right. Reservoirs are remote so finding a spot for them will be easy.

Am going to pull the engine on MONDAY and get that part cleaned up and painted. There is a fair bit of corrosion on it. Need some half moon seals for the VVT removal. Must got to Nissan tomorrow.

 

Its ok Il let you race the Glanza :rofl:

 

any reason WHY you are eliminating the VVT?

 

I think i would be close to 30k on my car. but i made a few bad decisions.

But it was my first attempt at this kind of thing.

I value the knowledge more than the cash spent.


Never thought i would rebuild an entire car with my bare hands. Its been fun.
But your always wondering what you cold do better. hmmm. Idea's ideas.

 

yep, on the track total rev range is between 3500revs and 6500revs.

There is an optimum position for the valve timing which is usually pretty narrow just like the rev range on a track car. Its easy to set the fixed gears for that kind of duty.

In a road car you make use of pretty much the entire rev range which is the main reason Nissan used VVT. A fixed cam gear cannot be optimized for the whole rev range from 1500 revs to 6500 hence VVT.

This is why ROM300 make a mistake pulling his VVT system off his road car Its got a big hole in the response below 3000 revs.

You eliminate a huge potential failure point by removing VVT from a track car as it is NO advantage once its set correctly.

 

Fair enough ..
I removed my VTC as well with jun cam gears but have the BDE ones going back on .
When I began tuning my engine (before full boost)I had the original VTC it actually made the whole rev range fatter but removed it due to being noisy and leaking.
Even on the track I want every bit of response and with what the BDE series 2 gears cost me .. there going on!

 

If the car is a combo road/track then VVT should be fitted no doubt.

 

dam this is going to be sooooooooooooooooooooooooooo cool

 

the vvt solenoids are still installed, just not plugged in. i might play with the bde gears and the vvt once i get a run with the nistune on a dyno.

 

Good plan, You really need that connected.