Z32 Best engine oil

Discussion in 'Technical' started by Darren Foy, Mar 11, 2021.

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What is the best engine oil to use in a Z32 TT

  1. Penrite

    1 vote(s)
    50.0%
  2. Full synthetic

    2 vote(s)
    100.0%
Multiple votes are allowed.
  1. Darren Foy

    Darren Foy New Member

    What is the best engine oil to use in a 1993 Z32 TT 2+0
     
  2. Martin Williams

    Martin Williams Well-Known Member

    Depends what condition your engine is in and what you intend to use it for
     
    MickW likes this.
  3. rob260

    rob260 Administrator Staff Member

    What is the difference between “Penrite” and “full synthetic”? Penrite is a brand that makes synthetic...

    Check out the factory service manual (google for a free copy) slide MA10 for recommended fluids and lubricants.
     
    MickW likes this.
  4. Darren Foy

    Darren Foy New Member

    I live south coast NSW the engine has travelled 101500kms it is completely stock and the car is not going to be pushed to hard just a Sunday driver
     
  5. beaver

    beaver southern zeds

    use a 10-30w of your choice, full synthetic or blended..
     
  6. Darren Foy

    Darren Foy New Member

    Thanks for that I will run the full synthetic
     
  7. Woo05h

    Woo05h Member

    I use penrite hpr15w/60 in my 300...
    Never had a issue just always warm the the up before giving it a hard time.
     
    MickW likes this.
  8. ADAMZX

    ADAMZX 2000spec Conversion

    In our ambient temperatures you can run anything from 10w30/40/50 to 15w40/50/60

    I personally use penrite hpr10 10w50 for my 280k+ engine oil of choice.
     
    MickW likes this.
  9. Darren Foy

    Darren Foy New Member

    Thanks Adam very helpful
     
  10. yellow300zx

    yellow300zx Pimpin Ain't Easy

    Do not use 10-30w, it is too thin for our cars.
     
    MickW likes this.
  11. Darren Foy

    Darren Foy New Member

    So what do you recommend ?
     
  12. ryzan

    ryzan Moderator Staff Member

    5w40 or 10w50. Been running HPR5 or 10 in multiple 300's for years.
     
  13. Darren Foy

    Darren Foy New Member

    Cheers for that
     
  14. MickW

    MickW Carntry member...

    tldr; it's about YOUR engine, we're all talking about OUR engines :D

    Install a very very accurate oil pressure gauge.
    Not a supercheap / Autopro bargain one, a really good one with a built in alarm.
    Have it's accuracy verified by an instrument specialist before you install it.
    ( quality control processes are not what they used to be... )

    The gauge will tell you if YOUR engine likes the oil you're using ;
    if you see pressure readings that are too low on a hot day then you can try the next weight of oil up from that at the next oil change. Do you live in a cold area? Look for consistent excess pressure readings and try something different at the next oil change.

    ALSO, once you've found your ideal oil an accurate gauge will tell you when it's time to change that oil. You'll see the pressures drop over time on any oil. 5,000 Km changes may be appropriate for some engines, probably overkill for others. Use the gauge to help decide when to change the oil.

    ALSO, the seals on these darling old engines tend to leak with fully synth oils. Even semi synth oils can be a problem on some of them. And oil seals deteriorate with time, even if you rarely drive a low Km's car.

    Hope that was useful mate :)
     
  15. Darren Foy

    Darren Foy New Member

    Thanks mate
     
  16. MintZ32

    MintZ32 Active Member

    ahh the old engine oil debate...

    To add to the already useful suggestions above the other thing you can do is an engine oil analysis which will tell you from the various contaminants what parts are wearing, how your engine is running, whether your changing the oil too early or too late etc. The lab can often make recommendations on what oil to run based on those results.
     
    MickW likes this.
  17. IB

    IB ?????

    I've been running full synthetic oil in my zed for the last 21 years, I don't have any leaking seals. Oil changes at 5kkm or less.

    I have done the usual maintenance like plenum pull with cam cover resealing, 100kkm & 200kkm services with new cam/crank seals and new rear main seals with clutch replacements.
     
    MickW likes this.
  18. MickW

    MickW Carntry member...

    Martin, that was so on point. I take my hat off to you mate.
    And you refrained from telling us about YOUR engine :)

    No disrespect intended to Darren Foy and for all we know he might have just had his engine rebuilt to the the tightest tolerances but the problem with giving advice is, most of these "which oil?" questions come from guys who've just bought a TT Zed and are scratching their heads in bewilderment about what they've gotten themselves into. And most are relying on the factory oil pressure gauge on the cluster for pressure readings. 30 year old electronics. And 30 year old pressure sensors. Bad data = bad decisions.

    PS, by all means replace the OEM oil pressure sensor. But don't expect better readings. Ask me how I know...
     
  19. geron

    geron National Petroleum Equipm

    Been using 10-40 synthetic for over 13yrs no oil consumption no leaks no dramas. Oil change every 10K.
    Tip: Always slightly underfill instead of overfill. Done!

    10-30 if rebuilt engine with tight clearances. Stock engine it should be 25-50.
     
  20. ADAMZX

    ADAMZX 2000spec Conversion

    And why not, the service manual even states those oil weights are recommended by nissan. I can pull up the listing if you like.

    Im no oil techician and dont claim to know the best oil for every engines use type and situation on kms and condition but from all the oil information in general ive read up on for any cars oil choice, not just the vg30 is that you should be using the recommend engine oil that was designed for your engine in the ambient temperatures the car is driving in for the life of the engine.

    The only time you would use anything else is when your driving in a really cold enviroments 5w20/30 and 20w50/60 in really hot enviroments. This is because those oils suit those conditions better for those ambient temps.

    As i work for repco over the a past 5 years or so, the amount of normal joe blow customers and even mechanics who tell me this under written rule that when your car reaches 200k you need to go up a oil weight thickness is absurd to be honest. I decided to check this fact out and not a single piece of information i could find on the net stated this was true and what info i did find out stated this rule only applies to really old engines built around the 60s 70s and 80s. After those eras, engine designers stated focusing on fuel efficiency and the oil grades started get thinner and thinner and so the main information i found was as i stated above just stick to the manufactures recommend oil weight for the life of the engine.
     
    IB and beaver like this.

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