Will running a tt clutch master without the booster attached do any damage to the system I have the port capped so no moisture can get in . I've been reading recently it could cause some pedal issue ?
It will accelerate wear on the clevis pin that connects to the pedal due to the extra weight on the pedal but other than that, no, no big issues so long as you cap off the vacuum lines. If it's a long term plan you should really be looking for an NA pedal and master assembly.
From memory they are a two stage assist or something, you can remove part of it while still maintaining most of the assist. I remember I did mine way back when I first got the black car, removed one of the vacuum tanks I think. From memory there were plenty of write ups on it so search should help.
Brake or clutch? Brake is a two stage booster but clutch is only single, clutch does have extra reservoirs in the fender so you don't run out of assist under sustained boost or something but they don't affect how much assist there is. I've had the reservoirs bypassed in mine for a couple months now and haven't noticed an issue yet, haven't been to wakefield without them though.
It's clutch master I'm talking about . Have had mine bypassed for 3 or 4 years with no issue . Just don't want to end up flogging the master out or breaking the pedal . There's been a bit of discussion on the aus300 Facebook page saying that running without the line will flog out the pivot hole
That's it Was one of the first things I did on mine and have done numerous track days and a full race weekend and yeah no issues. From memory though I only removed one of the reservoirs.
Eventually you will wear the pedal pivot hole oval with associated slop being horrid for feel. As well as being heavy as crap to use. Replace with NA pedal and master is really the only solution.
Can you run a single line from The plenum with a check Valve to the master to make a "semi" boosted pedal
As in my reply to Shane above you can ditch the t-piece and reservoirs and just run the vac line as you suggested, this doesn't reduce the strength of the assist it just (presumably) makes it run out of assist under some conditions (otherwise I have no clue why nissan installed them, shits and giggles?) I run mine straight from the plenum to the booster with a check valve and have no complaints.
Also, for the pedal clevis there should be a plastic bushing fitted to the pedal that the clevis dowel rides in, it's once that bushing falls apart that you start wearing on the pedal's metal. If you're a real keen-bean you can replace the bushing with a ball or needle bearing in the hopes they're a little less perishable