Tt Clutch booster bypass

Discussion in 'Technical' started by WazTTed, Jun 10, 2017.

  1. WazTTed

    WazTTed Grease Monkey

    Will running a tt clutch master without the booster attached do any damage to the system I have the port capped so no moisture can get in .

    I've been reading recently it could cause some pedal issue ?
     
  2. Fists

    Fists Well-Known Member

    It will accelerate wear on the clevis pin that connects to the pedal due to the extra weight on the pedal but other than that, no, no big issues so long as you cap off the vacuum lines.

    If it's a long term plan you should really be looking for an NA pedal and master assembly.
     
  3. WazTTed

    WazTTed Grease Monkey

    Are the na clevis pin setups larger then the tt ?
     
  4. Fists

    Fists Well-Known Member

    Just a longer throw so it's doing less work per distance traveled.
     
  5. Shane001

    Shane001 Well-Known Member

    From memory they are a two stage assist or something, you can remove part of it while still maintaining most of the assist. I remember I did mine way back when I first got the black car, removed one of the vacuum tanks I think. From memory there were plenty of write ups on it so search should help.
     
  6. Fists

    Fists Well-Known Member

    Brake or clutch? Brake is a two stage booster but clutch is only single, clutch does have extra reservoirs in the fender so you don't run out of assist under sustained boost or something but they don't affect how much assist there is. I've had the reservoirs bypassed in mine for a couple months now and haven't noticed an issue yet, haven't been to wakefield without them though.
     
  7. WazTTed

    WazTTed Grease Monkey

    It's clutch master I'm talking about .
    Have had mine bypassed for 3 or 4 years with no issue .
    Just don't want to end up flogging the master out or breaking the pedal .
    There's been a bit of discussion on the aus300 Facebook page saying that running without the line will flog out the pivot hole
     
  8. Shane001

    Shane001 Well-Known Member

    That's it :)

    Was one of the first things I did on mine and have done numerous track days and a full race weekend and yeah no issues.

    From memory though I only removed one of the reservoirs.
     
  9. Tektrader

    Tektrader Z32 Hoe, service me baby

    Eventually you will wear the pedal pivot hole oval with associated slop being horrid for feel. As well as being heavy as crap to use.

    Replace with NA pedal and master is really the only solution.
     
  10. WazTTed

    WazTTed Grease Monkey

    Can you run a single line from
    The plenum with a check
    Valve to the master to make a "semi" boosted pedal
     
  11. Fists

    Fists Well-Known Member

    As in my reply to Shane above you can ditch the t-piece and reservoirs and just run the vac line as you suggested, this doesn't reduce the strength of the assist it just (presumably) makes it run out of assist under some conditions (otherwise I have no clue why nissan installed them, shits and giggles?)

    I run mine straight from the plenum to the booster with a check valve and have no complaints.
     
  12. Fists

    Fists Well-Known Member

    Also, for the pedal clevis there should be a plastic bushing fitted to the pedal that the clevis dowel rides in, it's once that bushing falls apart that you start wearing on the pedal's metal. If you're a real keen-bean you can replace the bushing with a ball or needle bearing in the hopes they're a little less perishable
     

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