Silver Bullet

Discussion in 'Member's Garage' started by MagicMike, Sep 17, 2014.

  1. Z32 TT

    Z32 TT Active Member

    Do you have any photos of the surge tank? How are you splitting the 10an feed to the 6 an fittings on the rail?

     
  2. MagicMike

    MagicMike Moderator Staff Member

    I don't have any pics on the tank in situ, probably won't until I have the pre pump filter and pump etc mounted and the heat protection finished (very close to exhaust). I will be wrapping the exhaust and using boom mat between the surge tank and pump and the exhaust.

    The split from 10an to 2 x 6an is with a 10an to 2x8an 'Y' fitting and then 8an to 6an reducters from there.

    You can get a 10an to 2x6an 'Y' fitting straight up tho.
     
  3. scottyoz1962

    scottyoz1962 Active Member

    :eek: you really think Cara would fill that poor boys mind with stuff like how much of a PITA working on and owning 300zx's are ? Nooooooooooooo never, :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: smart woman, she's gonna teach that boy well so he won't end up looking like all the rest of us Zed owners.
     
  4. MagicMike

    MagicMike Moderator Staff Member

    So I made some more progress.

    Installed new fitting in the bulkhead for the main return line from the rail, finished mounting the new in-tank pump and connected all the lines and re-installed bulkhead to the main tank.

    Finalised the surge tank mounting and installed the Boommat on it. It is a thermal and acoustic insulation, dimpled foil stuff with fibre stuff and a sticky backing. Also wrapped another section of exhaust that is closest to the tank and pump (I re-wrapped the dumps while the engine was out, and the front pipes are still wrapped).
    [​IMG]
    Tank is 170mm x 180mm x 100mm.
    [​IMG]
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    [​IMG]

    I spent yesterday making a bracket to support the big ass pump. I actually made 3 brackets and modified one of them a few times, because I kept on finding better ways to do it.

    I am still deciding on how and where to split the 10an into 2 x 6an and spent some time yesterday trying different runs. I am leaning towards splitting it about 30cm back from the drivers dump and running the 6an lines from there in a cool tube up past the dump and direct to the back of the rails. My reasoning is I have to fit a big 10an filter in before it splits and doing this in the engine bay makes things very cluttered with the filter and the 'Y'. The filter fits on the inside of the rail and the rail is still the lowest point.

    I couldn't decide 100% so I put that on hold and started installing turbo/ic pipework, so I can get my loom in the right spot, so I can confirm that the braided lines to and from the rail are actually going to be in the right spot/right lengths (and not clash with wiring runs!).
     
  5. Anti

    Anti 14.7 x 14.7 = 44.1

    This is super cool, I love it all, but that surge tank is way too close to the exhaust

    Knock up a 0.5mm sheet steel heat shield to put between the two and wrap one side of it with reflect-a-gold. that might do it with the wrap you already have on the exhaust and the shield on the surge tank...

    hope you have stainless exhausts too or they'll rust wit the moisture-retaining wrap (if in doubt ceramic coat, win win).

    WELCOME TO MY LIFE
     
  6. MagicMike

    MagicMike Moderator Staff Member

    It is closer than I would have liked, but really not that much closer to the exhaust than the last tank (if at all) and the exhaust was not wrapped previously. Unfortunately, the physical size of the pre pump filter, the pump and the full flow fittings have dictated the location of the tank. Even if I made the tank skinnier I can't move the weld on outlet any further to the side or it moves off the tank, and I can't move the tank further to the outside or the pump outlet points right at the chassis rail (already had to massage for clearance).

    Also clearance to the swaybar is tight, I am semi concerned about bar flex there.


    The previous tank had another form of sticky back reflecty stuff also.

    This is the stuff I am using
    http://www.mscn.com.au/DEI-heat-saf...ei050507-floor-tunnel-shield-II-21x24-3-5sqft

    I am 90% sure this is the stuff used on the old tank
    http://www.mscn.com.au/DEI-heat-saf...0130-under-hood-thermal-acoustic-lining-32x54

    Going to get it all running first and see what the fuel temps do and go from there. There is probably just enough room to run a shield if need be.

    Main zorst pipes are mild, but I can live with replacing them if need be. Car doesn't even get driven, let alone in the wet lol
     
  7. Chrispy

    Chrispy Pretentious Upstart

    A sheet steel heat guard will make the biggest difference to temperature out of all those things. But of course, if it doesn't fit, it doesn't fit :p
     
  8. rob260

    rob260 Administrator Staff Member

    Nice to see it all coming together
     
  9. badxtc

    badxtc kirby's bitch

    looking good man , coming together well


     
  10. MagicMike

    MagicMike Moderator Staff Member

    Thanks Alex ;)

    So on the advice, i decided to make a heat shield which i finished today. Also finished the feed from surge to rails and rails to reg, completing the loop.

    I had previously hoped to get the flex sensor in behind the stock heat shield next to passenger side dump but after the fittingsand hose ends it isnt going to go. Open to ideas on where to stick this now. Going to have to make it work in the return along the inside of the passenger rail somehow i think.
     
  11. MagicMike

    MagicMike Moderator Staff Member

    Had a bit more progress. Finished the plumbing. Ran the regulator output for pump speed control. Made some guards and heat shields. Got dash back in mostly.

    I ended up putting the ethanol sensor here. I am not sure how long the cable from the board in the ecu (nistune) is so I wanted to keep it fairly close. I'll run it through a hole in the floor if I have to.
    [​IMG]

    This is where I have the 10AN filter and the split from 10AN to 2 x 6.

    [​IMG]

    This is the drivers side dump, where the 2 x 6 lines run up the firewall to feed the rails. The lines are in a cool tube, but since I was making stuff I made a shield also. There is a stud on the firewall up a bit higher than dump height that the lines are secured with a p-clamp, and the shield is also secured to the same stud. The shield (soemwhat) follows the contour of the firewall down to the floorpan and bolts to the guard that houses the filter and y splitter above.

    [​IMG]

    This is the shield for the surgetank as recommended by you lot. Barely enough room but it is mostly not touching the zorst.

    [​IMG]

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    Did some more work on the plenum also as there was a few blanked off ports like the OEM PCV ports and stuff like that.

    [​IMG]

    And painted it once I was happy with the smoothing out.

    [​IMG]
     
  12. ed300zx

    ed300zx Active Member

    Looking good mate.

    i'm pretty sure I still have your bonnet struts at my place too :confused: we had mine and yours shipped to me from memory to save on postage. Popped into my head the other day.
     
  13. MagicMike

    MagicMike Moderator Staff Member

    Yep I was thinking about that just the other day too!

    You coming to zedfest???
     
  14. ProckyZ89

    ProckyZ89 Senior Member

    It looks good and seems to be coming together well.

    As said really don't like the proximity to the exhaust.
    But you seem to have taken a few steps to rectify the issue.
    :)
     
  15. Anti

    Anti 14.7 x 14.7 = 44.1

    Good work

    You've come this far get some reflect a gold for those shields. How did you shave the plenum?
     
  16. MagicMike

    MagicMike Moderator Staff Member

    Ya breakin ma balls man, breakin ma balls. I wasnt going to do anything to them, the stock stuff is un treated? I have some boom mat stuff left. Might use that if i have to remove the shields again.

    Grinder, sandpaper, chemi weld which worked better than expected and then some of the 2 part epoxy knead it type stuff for the port filling. Then more hand sanding.
     
  17. MagicMike

    MagicMike Moderator Staff Member

    Nearly there...

    Used up some more boommat on the shields. Everything underneath is now complete. Stupidly I had to re-do some fittings because I didn't get o-ring fittings for the pump and filter originally. Exhaust, starter etc all done. Took the oppertunity to clean the oil filters pre-turbos, not that they needed it.

    Had a shit of a time installing the injectors. I ordered Delphi 1400s which are meant to be a 14mm top and bottom, but for whatever reason they came configured with a 14mm top and a 15.5mm bottom o-rings (wtf) with 2 stupid plastic rings either side of the bottom o-ring to keep it located.

    For those interested, the injector bucket adapter is 13.70mm ID. After to and fro with the supplier, he sent me some other orings and told me to remove one of the plastic rings and file down the other (from 14mm down to something less than 13.70mm) and install 2 of the new orings.

    This didn't work either, but luckily I ordered some new orings which I ended up using. They are a 14.22mm OD. Hopefully they don't leak.

    This is not the config I ended up going with but the brown viton o-ring does do the sealing and the stupid plastic ring does stop it from moving up. I didn't take any pics of the config I ended up going with.
    [​IMG]

    This is one fitted to the bucket
    [​IMG]
    After I got the injectors and rail in, I collected my upgraded nistuned ECU from Karl on Sat, and dropped off my balance tube for him to modify for the top feeds.

    Shame I didn't tweak that the wiring for the injectors and coilpacks etc don't fit under the rail after the rail is bolted down, but I'm not going back there now I will live with the ugly (as long as nothing leaks!).
    [​IMG]

    I also ran the connection for the ethanol sensor to the ecu and finished putting the cabin back together (drivers seat and steering wheel aside).

    I am at the point now that I think I can prime the fuel system and see what happens :eek:
     
  18. MagicMike

    MagicMike Moderator Staff Member

    Car is full of fluids now, and I have the balance tube back from Karl.

    Throttle body pipes, balance tube and a few other things and it is ready to try and start.

    Have to re-learn the nistune software, been a while since I upgraded it to the newest version :eek:
     
  19. MagicMike

    MagicMike Moderator Staff Member

    Fired it up last weekend with great difficulty. Chasing down some non firing issues, established that at least 1 of the injectors was not working correctly.

    With the supplier in vic wanting them back for testing and zedfest looming, i bought some bosch 1000s during the week and installed them for 2 reasons. First was to confirm that it was actually the delphis that were causing the issue and 2 so the car would be running for zedfest.

    I would have hated to drop another 1200bux on the bosch 1650s to find out that the injectors werent the issue.

    Anyway so the 1000s are in and it runs perfectly smooth, 1400s in the mail back to vic for testing but i think this is going to end up in an arguement.

    Thanks to Benny, Al, Gav, Bonez and r33k for keeping me company :)
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2016
  20. Jamie

    Jamie Jamie The Hobbit


    Shoot me a message if you want me to go nuts on whoever you're dealing with :D
     

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