Detailing thread

Discussion in 'Non Technical' started by mtopxsecret6, Nov 11, 2015.

  1. mtopxsecret6

    mtopxsecret6 Member

    Who on here are detailing freaks?

    This thread is for all detailing related questions/gossip/photos etc.
    anyone got paint/interior/engine bay photos to start things off?
     
  2. RoryZ

    RoryZ Member

  3. mtopxsecret6

    mtopxsecret6 Member

    Ok, i was wondering what products you used Roryz!
    Meguiars is good stuff, i use that for most jobs i do.

    Ok, i detailed one of the new wheels that arrived the other day.
    Ill just do up a picture log of it, you can see the materials and equipment i used in the photos.
    There still is blemishes and marks, though im using up the last of my cheaper stuff before my shipment of pro products arrive.
    The last photo is a comparo between detailed and untouched.

    "the wheels were cleaned before they had been sent to me". :W::W:
    Anyways, to the photos..

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    The next wheel i do will be with the pro products, im doing this as a comparo between the two different grades. Im expecting the pro stuff to work more efficiently, not actually a better finish. As this wheel required alot of actual elbow grease for this result.
     
  4. coatesie

    coatesie New Member

    Do any of you guys use "black magic" ?
     
  5. black baz

    black baz black 'n blue Bazemy

    Where does she live ... ????
     
  6. gmbrezzo

    gmbrezzo Moderator

    On a full show detail I use Mothers Carnauba Wash and Wax.
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    Then chamois dry the car.
    When I am doing a "Full" polish (2x passes) I first use Maguire's - Scratch X 2.0
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    Example of Before and After finish
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    I then follow that with Maguire's - Deep Crystal, Wet Look polish
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    For the chrome parts I use Maguire's - Ultimate liquid wax.
    I have done a comparison between Ultimate liquid wax and Deep Crystal Wet Look
    The finish is the same quality, but Wet Look rubs off so much easier.
    I have used Maguire's chrome polish but the Ultimate does a better job on chrome.
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    Then its tyre and plastic time, for this I use Meguire's - Hotshine.
    A light spray followed by a second coat.
    Sometimes with the first coat use an old towel and wipe off any gunk.
    Don't get any on the chrome or it will smudge.
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    For light touch ups at the show I use Maguire's - Quick Detailer for the paint
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    And Mr Sheen on the chrome. Many biker's use it on chrome.
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    Mr Sheen is also good for touch-ups on glass too.



    Engine bay info to follow later.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Nov 16, 2015
  7. coatesie

    coatesie New Member

    Where do you buy those products from?
     
  8. mtopxsecret6

    mtopxsecret6 Member

    Black magic I used to buy from the carwash places. It was alright.

    Mr sheen on chrome? Thats different. I'm guessing its for a "scotch guard" protective barrier? I might give that a try. The meguiars All metal polish isnt that good, i find myself swapping to a proper metal polish.
    I use the Armour all wheel sealant to keep brake dust etc off for further duration. Scratch x is a cutting compound, I'd be carefull using it on a regular "polishing" basis. More coats of polish to remove fine scratches and swirls.

    When I get my opti coat and carpro gear arrive, ill do another wheel detail with photos.

    keep the detailing photos coming!:br:
     
    Last edited: Nov 16, 2015
  9. gmbrezzo

    gmbrezzo Moderator

    All the products I mentions are available at usual auto parts outlets eg Supercheap, Autobarn.
    They are not cheap, but I have tried quite a lot of different product over time and only got on to Maguire's products after attending the Summernats and seeing demonstrations plus all the toppling car people using this gear.

    Armor All products are great for Holden and Ford's, LOL, but not good enough for Zeds.
    Although when sprayed on the dash and door cards will look good, they WILL dry out and CRACK the surfaces in the hot Australian sun. They are cheap and just that.
     
  10. gmbrezzo

    gmbrezzo Moderator

    This information is for RAW alloy polishing, NOT alloy wheels.
    Alloy wheels look like a metal surface, but are usually a paint finish.
    Here is the link to: Gutter Rash repair thread in Non-Z Related.
    http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=315957

    Hi Guys
    Thought I would share with you the process of repairing gutter rash.
    You have all seen it, and hate it when it happens to you.

    I picked up these wheels from Pennyarv cheaply because of the damage.
    Plus I already had a set of these and these two wheel were spares.

    First of all, not all wheels are the same.
    Today what looks like a polished metal IS NOT.
    Most of todays surfaces (except chrome) are a painted finish.

    I found this out when I started the process.
    You can get your wheels repaird for approx.$300 ea, or do it yourself.
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    Firstly get a file and smooth the burred sections to a smooth finish.
    If the gouge is too deep then it will have to stay there, as the more you file the weaker the rim can become.
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    Keep working round the edge of the rim till all the Gutter Rash has been smoothed.
    This is where I became aware of the surface being painted.
    Oh well, its all or nothing. :eek:
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    Next get some various grades of emery paper.
    I used 180, 240, 400, 800, 1200, and 2500 grit paper.
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    Work your way round the rim to remove the paint back to a bare surface.

    Some other people have put the wheel on the car to spin it while jacked off the ground. :mad: :mad: :mad:
    I do NOT advise this as it is a dangerous practice.
    Hands can get caught, resulting ing severe injury, or the car can fall off the jack and damage the wheel.
    DO NOT DO IT!
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    Keep using the finer grade emery paper to "polish" the bare surfase to a shine.
    When you get to the 800 or 1200 grade use soapy water to assist the polish process.
    If you want a brushed metal effect stop at 800 grit.

    After the 2500 grit paper I used a liquid polish to get a mirror shine.
    "Purple" liquid polish works well on alloy. Truck drivers sware by it.
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    The before and after pics (polished on the left, damaged on on the right)
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    And the close ups. :)
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    This wheel had Gutter Rash most of the way round.
    Not any more. :D
    Just need a new tyre to finish the job.
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    Thanks for reading.
    Cheers
    Graham
     
  11. KEZA

    KEZA Zed Fiend

    Graham...

    The very best product for interior detailing on Leather etc that I have ever used is "Baby Oil". I was told this by a professional detailer.
    Use a small amount on a good cloth and rub into the leather until all area is covered. (Do not over use)
    Once area is covered, then wipe away excess with a dry cloth and buff with a third dry cloth.
    This works a treat, as it keeps the leather supple. Unlike other products as you quite rightly mentioned, which after time dries out and causes the leather to crack.
    Hope this helps those that want a good finish to their cars interior.
    Regards
    Kerry :zlove:
     
  12. gmbrezzo

    gmbrezzo Moderator

    Here are details to: Polished Alloy Coolant Pipes thread in Z32 Technical
    http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=316333

    Decided to do the bling thing for the wife's car.
    (she Lets me work on it - Sooo generous)

    Should have got the before shot.
    This was after I had used the angle grinder with alloy polishing disc.
    More about these discs later, for the fiddly bits.
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    Using wet/dry 400 grit to get the fine ripples out.
    800 grit (wet) will get a better "mirror" finish.

    These sanding blocks (fine) are great for finishing off.
    A used one has a better finish, not so course.
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    I find Brasso on a used sanding pad works to "smooth" the surface
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    "Purple" is the absolute best for a final alloy shine.
    Not cheap, but IS THE BEST!
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    Not a complete mirror shine, but this was accomplished in a part day.
    Way better than what I started with.:)
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  13. Magic Z

    Magic Z New Member

    Great work on the rim rash, need to do the same
    Few hours labour but a big saving & satisfaction
    doing it yourself
    Thanks
     
  14. GWZED

    GWZED 97 2+2 TT Targa

    I swear by Zymol products. Zymol Japon Carnuba wax products are long lasting and designed for japanese paints. Also have some great interior and Tyre shine products.
     
  15. Chrispy

    Chrispy Pretentious Upstart

    I got myself a Mint DA polisher a while ago. Does a good job, but by the time you have washed the car in a strong detergent, clayed it, polished it with a few grades of polish, sealed it and waxed it, it takes about 2 days :p

    I use duragloss sealants and leather treatments which seem to work really well. Polish is by Menzerna. Use 1Z for interior cleaner and wheel cleaners. Maguires for everything else.

    Anyone done much with wheel waxes/sealants? I feel like I spend way too long cleaning wheels.
     
  16. mtopxsecret6

    mtopxsecret6 Member

    I've got a DA. concours. I've used the mazerna stuff, seems made more for hard euro paints? good stuff.
     
  17. Chrispy

    Chrispy Pretentious Upstart

    Used it on my old M3 and a bit on the A4, haven't had time to touch the Exige yet. Also on a Evo 5 and the better half's Mazda 3. Probably found the Mazda was the hardest to get nice, paint seemed incredibly hard.
     
  18. mtopxsecret6

    mtopxsecret6 Member

    look what arrived!

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    time to try it out!
     
  19. mtopxsecret6

    mtopxsecret6 Member

    I did some testing with detailing yesterday. I did a test section on the boot section under the rear hatch.

    I used mazerna, meguiars ultimate compund, meguiars ultimate polish, and meguiars ultimate wax. heres the photos.

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  20. ZDUCTIV

    ZDUCTIV Active Member

    autopia.org has all your detailing needs in it.

    303 Aerospace protectant is what I used to use for all interior plastics, seals, and the like.

    Has a matte finish, and doesn't stay oily like armor all.

    Not particularly easy to find though.
     

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