Lidz Build Journal

Discussion in 'Member's Garage' started by lidz, Apr 16, 2012.

  1. ABZ300

    ABZ300 G

    Oh ok :( I was after oem skirts as they are not as common...i was thinking either stillen or kaminari skirts...but they are hard to come by especially in urethane. Plus i dont want to get it from like Coz as it would be costly just getting that over here unless i was doing a big order which wont be happening :( Maybe they might pop up on yahoo japan or something one day...

    Abraham
     
  2. lidz

    lidz Well-Known Member

    Kaminari aren't made in urethane so they'll be very hard to come by :D

    Got some part numbers kids, skirts are:
    76861Q (RH)
    76861R (LH)

    End caps are:
    76861U (RH)
    76861V (LH)

    Also half a dozen different types of screws & clips but Nissan can tell you them once they look up the skirts. They're all like $5 each too :eek:
     
  3. frysie

    frysie FRYTECH

    much appreciated, do you also have the parts # for 2k front?
     
  4. lidz

    lidz Well-Known Member

    Nah sorry but the bars & accessories are all advertised on czp, z1, etc otherwise easy for Nissan to pull up.

    Cheers, Tim
     
  5. car.mad

    car.mad New Member

    fantastic results with the spoiler. very nice you have some top skills :cool:
     
  6. Instamatic

    Instamatic Active Member

    Awesome, I've been looking at getting a set of those skirts too. Do you know if they bolt straight on, or do you need to do some drilling?
     
  7. project_300zx

    project_300zx New Member

    Love your workmanship on that spoiler. How long would you say it took all up? You should get moulds made up on it, they would sell very well indeed :). At the same time thought i'm sure you want to keep it unique, especially after all that work.
     
  8. lidz

    lidz Well-Known Member

    Not much done this weekend unfortunately, ended up working yesterday & just had a heap of things to do today.
    Got most of the rad's done & also changed the blackout area, decided it was too square so made it a little taller & gave it more curvature. Flows a lot better with the lip of the wing now. Doing so means I need to alter the 'flick' a little, got started on it but lost the light so had to leave it for another day.
    Have acquired pretty much everything I need to make the mould now though.

    Instamatic if you use the oem fittings there's a lot of drilling required. Here's a photo of the back, there's 12 of the little yellow plugs per side (part # 76895G).

    [​IMG]

    These plugs require you to drill into the sill & press fit a female plug (# 76500J) for the yellow plug to fit into. So 24 of each all up.

    There's then 5 screws to secure the lower edge (# 76862A)

    [​IMG]

    Again these require you to drill & fit a female plug (# 63830E).

    At the leading end of the skirt you need 2 screws (# 63838A) which go into 2 of those folded metal things (# 78910B). At the back end of the skirt to secure the 'L' shaped endcap, which itself slides into some moulded sections on the end of the skirt, you need 2 more screws (# 76862AA) & 2 female plugs/nuts (#63830EA).

    end cap photo
    [​IMG]

    So all up 21 fittings. Per side. Over engineered much???

    I'm going to skip the yellow plugs as have zero inclination to drill into the sills but go the 5 lower screws & the pair at either end. Will probably run some decent double sided tape along the upper edge.

    Note, all these part numbers are off a sheet from nissan but when looking at my 'L' endcap earlier I noticed the part number was 76857 - VP100 as opposed to the number off the sheet which lists 76861V. Thats for the new part ordered via nissan. As such just be careful if ordering using above numbers to make sure the parts are what you need.

    I'm yet to order the fittings required (other than yellow plugs which i already have) so will report if I have any issues. Although still debating just going to a bolt shop locally as would be significantly cheaper.

    Project 300zx probably have about 30-40 hours into the wing now, kind of wish I'd kept better track of it now you ask!

    cheers, Tim
     
  9. lidz

    lidz Well-Known Member

    Update time, works been insane leading into a big review so nothing done for last few weeks but luckily managed to squeeze in about 3hrs sunday morning before helping a mate plaster a wall :D

    Taped up the blackout area again, mostly with plastic painters tape, so I could cut the shut line in.
    [​IMG]

    & close up of the shut line
    [​IMG]

    oh my god, its finally happening... getting everything prepped
    [​IMG]

    Olive oil sprayed on as mould release
    [​IMG]

    & wiped smooth
    [​IMG]

    First coat going on. It's a sort of light weight plaster, going on like a gelcoat almost
    [​IMG]

    Applying matting soaked in plaster stuff
    [​IMG]

    & with 2 coats on
    [​IMG]

    Unfortunately ran out of material so called it a day, have since got some more so hopefully finish this weekend. Did have a couple problem issues with the initial gelcoat going off too quick & cracking a little, think this is due to the freezing cold weather of a melbourne winter as dont have these issues in a climate controlled room at work... Fixed where I could but can repair the mould before laying any fibreglass anyway.

    cheers, Tim
     
  10. lidz

    lidz Well-Known Member

    Finished the mould :D Was only another hour left in it, wish I'd had the extra materials last weekend!

    First up added another 'gelcoat' layer so the new layers would bond to the original ones ok then did another nice thick layer of matting.

    Then I made a simple support frame out of wood, this is to give the edges where it wraps around the hatch a bit of support when the mould comes off. Dont want it cracking after all this!

    [​IMG]

    & using plenty of the matting I 'glassed' it to the mould.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    & that was it, going to give it all week to harden up with this cold weather then hopefully I'll be crossing my fingers & pulling it off next weekend. Can't wait, will be able to take the zed for a drive (& a wash) for the first time in probably 2 months.

    cheers, Tim
     
  11. bRACKET

    bRACKET Do Right Dean

    That's awesome, really cool to see how much work goes into making JUST the mould!

    Keep it up mate
     
  12. planetrobbi

    planetrobbi planetrobbi

    sensational thread great to see the stages making the mould and looks great. lemme know your retail if you feel like making a 2nd spoiler :D I am looking at the winfactory driven authority one but its exxy to get it here
     
  13. Peter Black

    Peter Black Active Member

    Out of curiosity, what's teh plan for getting it off?

    There does not seem to be any direction that it will slide off so will you need to cut it somewhere?
     
  14. lidz

    lidz Well-Known Member

    Hmmm, good question Pete...

    Will definitely be a 2 man job, my plan is to start from the tips on the sides which should pop pretty easily then lift the forward edge of the wing up while sliding it back. Well that's the plan in my head anyway, could be a lot of winging it...

    The benefit of the clay though is if need be I can just dig it out of the mould & as there's no plans to make more than one at this stage (sorry planetrobbi!) once I lay up the part if I have to I can break the mould to get it out. That said though if the mould survives ok then I'll reassess.
     
  15. Peter Black

    Peter Black Active Member

    I've been thinking about this a bit too as I want to make a fibreglass hatch, I've not come up with a good answer yet either.

    If you need an extra set of hands getting it off let me know, I'd be happy to have a bit of a play with this kind of thing.

     
  16. lidz

    lidz Well-Known Member

    Yeah hatch would definitely be a 2 part mould but wouldn't think it would be to hard, definitely go with fibreglass though. If you've got the space though have a go.
    When separating larger moulds at work we use wooden wedges to help break the seal & blow compressed air into the gaps. If you've used enough mould release it should just 'pop' otherwise drill a few holes to get the air into the tight areas. Can always repair them later if needing a second part.
    Have you talked to a fibreglass or body shop out making you a mould / part?

    Have roped my brother in to help remove the mould but cheers for the offer, welcome to come have a look if its actually successful & brainstorm hatch plans though.
     
  17. Peter Black

    Peter Black Active Member

    Yeah, I'd like to come and have a look some time.

    I talked to Al about it when he was still doing his Z Toy stuff and actually got a decent price out of him but I doubt I'd get the same sort of deal out of a commercial opperation. I'm keen to do it myself just for the learning excerxise anyway. The other issue with a hatch is it needs to support the rear window too, even made out of Perspex it will be heavy-ish.

    Thanks for the tips.
     
  18. lidz

    lidz Well-Known Member

    Very minor update, relocated the ptu the other week but only knocked up a temporary bracket. Had a bit of a quiet day at work today so made something better out of stainless.

    [​IMG]

    Getting very tempted to move the fusebox though after reading anti's build thread so might have to relocate the ptu again...
    Might try & finish the wing first though :D
     
  19. Mikey5555

    Mikey5555 Grid Runner

    I can't wait to see this wing!!!!
     
  20. DUB

    DUB BRAMIS Photography

    Epic is the word lidz.

    Where do you get modelling clay from? If you don't work at Ford that is.
     

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