Personally I like the later response on the street ... got tired of the tires lighting up every time I thought of using some throttle. Much nicer to drive in the wet which is an important consideration over hear seeing as rains so bloody much What people forget is that while larger Turbos may reach max boost and torque later they are also most likely still producing 300rkw give or take @ only 4500rpm I fitted 60mm Throttle bodies which have really improved throttle response. Just a thought or 2 ... was struggle but there you go
Ok this may ask to be slapped in the face but I have came into some spare cash , is it worth getting ferrea 1mm oversize valves .. What are the performance aspects of this and are they worth it in my build. ?
I don't think so, get/do a nice job with the ports is all you need. In my opinion larger valves get too close to the side of the combustion chamber and cylinder bore resulting extra "shrouding" ... this is bad enough with std. sized valves. Since our blocks are thin, a significant increase in bore size ( to give some room around the valves) is not an option.
Would my existing FMIC 500x200x76 be a restriction with the power output I am chasing (can be seen on unique auto sports website)
You could always improve and go plazmaman but when does it stop, I wouldn't be too worried about that for now.
Update, So today went and Spoke to a friend who used to spray cars as a trade and got a experienced hand to paint my engine bay boo yah! Have arranged to pull my engine in 2 weeks there abouts the weekend of the 16th and 17th June as a birthday present to myself lol. Will put plenty of progress pictures up than more than likely of me covered in car grime and threatening something with a c spanner
Today i got to work doing something knowing that the gears are actually now in motion for my build. Pulled my Front bar and intercooler and started cleaning things a bit and doing preliminary trial fitments of piping size, length and shape to do my SMIC air intakes. So this is the parts/work list LOCKED IN and ordered. NOTE, parts in bold are either new or added to the build since original post. 88mm wiseco oversize pistons (previously 87.5) Eagle H beam rods and pins ARP Rod Studs ARP MAIN STUDS Block Inspected and acid dipped Block redecked Block water passage bored out for more water to back cylinders new freeze plugs Block Bored and Honed using a Torque Plate Crank center weight tig welded into place Crank balanced New Moly Coated Race Spec Main bearings installed New Moly Coated Race Spec Rod bearings installed JWT Cams 400+ JWT HD Valve Springs JWT Cam Sprocket Adapters Ferrea 1mm Oversize Valves Heads inspected and cleaned Heads Pressure Tested Heads redecked Extreme porting done to intake and exhaust runners Combustion Bowl work done including de-shrouding of the valves 5 angle radius cut valve job Valve heights set Heads prepped and assembled oil and coolant plugs are removed and replaced in the block with new ones including the ones in the crank Port Matched lower plenum block and crank acid dripped and cleaned crank bearing surfaces are micro polished OEM Valve guides NEW New Lifters New VITON valve stem New OEM Cam Seals New OEM Head Gaskets New Cometic Metal Head Gaskets New OEM Oil Pump New OEM Oil Pump Gasket NEW water pump NEW alternator NEW N/A Power steering pump BDE performance VCT gears TOP speed hicas eliminator Chrome NA PS resivior Chrome Turbo charge pipes Chrome Water Pipes Chrome CAS bracket Chrome Alternator bracket full UR pulley set up with belts New Oil pan Full timing 120K timing belt kit (including new idler pulley and tensioners) AMS manifolds 3">2.5" test pipes 3" split flange dumps 750CC injectors Turbosmart Fuel Pressure Regulator selin intake *extended harness* 2x apexi pods Koyo Radiator with bracket assosiated hoses (power steering, brake booster etc) in blue painted engine bay PTU relocated Top radiator hose with temp sensor moulded in Spitfire coil packs new O2sGT28RS turbo kit
official update 3 - engine pull ENGINE OUT PEOPLE.. well i set out last sunday to pull the engine, i had a few set backs along the way.. *cough* stripped bolt *cough* but i got there in the end and i pulled the gear box too, when it came to pulling the actual engine it was alot easier then some people had made out, i didnt have any clearance issues with anything. The block and tackle on the roof made it SUPER SMOOTH sailing Piccies coming up OMG IT FIT ONTO RAMPS! wheres my 'low rider' trophy.. ignore the front being 18" up plenty of oil in here.. eek! My assistant "reece" looking rather concerned.. (and cold) NEVER leave these off your engine! so hard to put back on! "Are you sure its this one you pull " UP UP AND AWAY NEW engine- Ran of my own sense of SELF SATISFACTION :zlove: work all done for this phase.. now engine repainting and a few deletes to go
Official update 4- HICAS DELETE So not much new in the last week, slow progression. massive degreasing job in the engine bay... I can actually see reflective material down there!! In the process i got stuck in and removeed the hicas and all associated lines in the engine bay. I also installed a nice blue TOP SPEED lock out bar while i was down there. Began masking off all the electrical wiring too. (lines still exist under car to the rear havent removed those yet.. yes im lazy ) Few pictures .. a nice before and after shot. *NOTE* i am still to take a grinder to the HICAS bracket supports and smoothe out the fender im doing that this weekend Then its time for a engine bay respray over the next week
Great work Andrew. Looking forward to seeing the Ol' girl back on the streets. Good write ups. Keep it up.
so i havnt touched this in a week or more. I have been busy purchasing and researching my supporting mods. Turbosmart FPR1200 ordered (plus gauge and 8mm hose tails) Clutch/flywheel combination is a secret will post up when im done. buying another MAF Still searching for 2x apexi air intakes. And otherwise sorting out what i need off my original engine to put onto my longblock.
I concur. Procky you're running big walbro 400lph single pump right? HICAS lines are bigger than fuel lines -use these for send and return. And use -6 fittings on your fuel line not 8mm barb fittings.
Already taken care of Rob JP is setting the fuel system up for me with -6 fitments. And I left the Hicas lines underneath the car on for that reason if they are to be used. I only cut the Hicas hose/line after the bolt in the engine bay (down bottom near fuel rails) so just need new lines from there. Also yes I am going a big 400L/H unit So I'm sure UAS will do my fuel lines right ?
