Hi guys. Thought I'd take the car out on a warm Friday night (34 Degrees according to the A/C cluster), but the Z had other plans warmed it up for 2 mins, drove 2K's up the road, didn't feel too powerful, but I wasn't revving past 4K, And at one point I felt a little stutter on accelleration, Didn't think much of it. Picked up my mate, got back onto the main road, and accelerated out of a roundabout, and it stalled! Since my petrol gauge isn't too reliable I assumed I ran out of petrol. Poured in around 4L's and it still won't start. I thought maybe cos the car was on an angle it would need more than 4L to start. But after doing some math with the oddometer reading I should still have a lot of petrol left. Done 322K's on a full tank, should be good for 600K. Any Idea what this could be? I'm thinking PTU. When I first got the car I relocated it, but it was tied on with cable ties, and then the cables ties came off. So the last mechanic, mounted it back into the stock position. If it is a PTU, how can I test it? Do I need a spare one? How hard is it to change? and can I find one easily on the weekend?
PTU or CAS check them both out and bad connection may cause what your describing and if it's a series 1 PTU they usually do die out with heat.
Yep, agree check the CAS as well had similar thing happen with mine, luckily just as I pulled in my driveway Turned out after much head scratching & uttering of fowl langauge that the wire retaining clip had misteriously disappeared off my CAS connector, Plug had only moved a few mm but that was enough to cause the the car to stop running Pete
Also, could be fuel... I dont think there is any way you would get 600kms from a tank in a TT Zed. I averaged about 400kms and even less once the mines ECU was installed. Whack in another 10L just to be sure. If thats doesnt work, follow posts as above regarding PTU and CAS.
Unless it's been chewing fuel like crazy or some one's siphoned it. I should have plenty of it. My last fillup was 58L and did 583K (that was highway driving). The one b4 36L for 302K. And tank is 72L i believe. I just plugged in my laptop and ran datascan. The self diagnostics show CODE 55 no errors. Does this mean 100% that the PTU is OK? if the code 55 is correct is there anything I should look at? I didn't unplug anything, but I checked to make sure PTU, CAS and the 2 sensors at the front (tps and cts?) were in. At this stage I'm seeing if any decent mechanics are open today and try and tow it to them. If not, I'll be rolling it down to my house.
If you have a multi meter you can test the PTU yourself. However I'm not sure if it will find a Minor fault when not under load. But if your car won't start it could be a complete failure. Multi meters are cheap from cheapa autos/repco/dicksmith, then go to the tech section and find the PTU testing page. Page 179 of the manual. Also the fuel could be a possibility and you have air in the fuel line. I don't know if the fuel pump purges on it's own, can someone else advise?
Sorry should have confirmed... Around town kms... Guess it depends on how you drive also. Quite possible for 500kms+ on a long stretch... There have been other threads regarding fuel consumption... I would say your Z would be one of the most conservative Zeds around on fuel! Stock? I would be lucky to see 300kms with my previous Z. Add some more fuel anyways just in case...
I drive like a granny 95% of the time. Anyways I've organised a tow to a mechanic. I figured, it'd be too much trouble to fix/diagnose on the side of the road. If I roll it back home, It's possible I still have to pay for a tow to a mechanic. So I might as well get it towed from the Street to the mechanic. I had a look at the PTU diagnostic. I'm not sure if I understand it. With a continuity test it seems if you reverse the leads you get a different result? Hmm.. Is that what happens with a diode? Thanks for all the help guys.
Easy test to isolate/eliminate PTU is to remove a coilpack and spark plug, recopnnect the wiring plug and insert the spark plug into the coilpack. Then hold spark plug tip about 2 mm from the plenum and have someone else crank it. Try with at least two coilpacks. No spark result from either = most likely the earth wire inside the PTU = dead. Get a series 2 fitted and eliminate this from future issues. Vader or Heavytrevy sells complete S2 PTUs with wiring plugs cheap!!!
"I figured, it'd be too much trouble to fix/diagnose on the side of the road". Pity your so far away as the "idiots" could spring into action and get ya going! In a week or three. Apparently the series 1 ptu was a recall in the states. Didn't worry about us. Vader is your man for sure.
Update: Tow truck driver has been delayed. He has kindly offered to tow it to my house for free later this evening. I'll try the multimeter test on the PTU, unless you think the spark test is more accurate? And if it's not the PTU, i'll get it towed on Monday
When i bought mine it did similiar to this. Had to let it sit for an hour before it could restart. Ended up being dirt injector connnectors. Might be worth a look.
WE HAVE IGNITION!!! The PTU wasn't working, but it's not a faulty PTU. It was the connectors. I removed the PTU, and tried to run the diagnostics with the multimeter, Couldn't perform the test properly. Continuity test wouldn't work on the same terminal, cos it was that dirty. Scraped off the gunk using a screwdriver and a knife. Reattached the PTU, cranked it for fun... and it turned over! I think I messed up the diagnostics cos I reversed the terminals. As one side is labelled 1,2,3,4,5,6,E So i assumed it was a,b,c,d,e,f,g But it's probably g,f,e,d,c,b,a. Anyways tomorrow I'll buy some electrical contact cleaner & maybe the dielectric grease. Can any1 recommend where to buy these things? I'm gonna hit up jaycar and repco first.
one trick for cleaning electrical connectors is really hot vinegar. Bit tricky with a PTU though. Tiny wire brush did the trick for me all those years ago. I recomend switching to series 2 PTU when you can.
