What have you done to your Zed today?

Afaik ABS was an option on most NA zed's, I found out the hard way.

I was looking for a N/A ABS r200 diff, and most were non ABS

 

OMFG so it is all about when the Tokoyo Motor Show is on ?

MYXX being used as a product label that confuses actual manufacture date has not been in use since the 80's.

A standardised VIN nomenclature has been in existence since the 80's, that used a digit to identify a "model year", but generally the buyer was not aware of that.

The original conversation was about a late in the year manufacture date being labeled as the next year, predominately the reason for this is IMO the misuse of "model year" as MYXX, to the point we have members calming a 91 car is a 92.

"Model year" was a production run identifier that has been bastardised by sales to bend over numpties.

But I can bet you when you return for a redbook valuation for trade in they will be able to tell you which year it was manufactured.

BUT ITS A 2010 !!!!! - I am sorry sir its a 2009 ! BUHAHAHAHAA

 

It's all about the spec of the car and option's

I work with this every day being a parts interpreter primarily with Holden, and also dabble in Isuzu, Hyundai and Subaru, Will be getting into nissan soon also, I will then have the Latest nissan parts catalogue will be winnar for me.

But even Holden's have had Year model's for many years.

It's Simply the New model for the next year getting built before the next year.

Many Various Parts change every year model, even if they essentially look similar, they can tend to not be interchangable, hence year models are very important to an interpreter, but you make it sound like a conspiracy lol

 

Being a parts interpreter you of all people should understand the issue, so when someone comes in and asks for parts for a 92 300ZX, then comes back and wants a refund because they are wrong because he actually has a 91, what will be your response ?

A VIN being preferred of course.

 

well actually if it is built in 91 but a 92 year model, then the 92 model part will be correct in most cases.

Have to deal with that issue alot, Quite often mechanics Don't end up getting VIN's and just get the build date and model of the car. =p

A fun part of the trade learning all the supercessions and when parts change for particular year models etc. but people usually think its just a conspiracy to change the price of a part.

But just for example, In Holden EPC, when entering a VIN of a commodore built in sep 05, you will get filtered to the 2006 model parts catelog


But also at the end of the day, VIN's are never completely correct, and strange things happen with car build's

 

changed diff oil
flushed out the auto tranny twice and refilled with the good stuff.
engine oil change and filter tomorrow night
getting ready to remove rear spoiler to see what awaits me.

 

Yes, yes yes and yes.

These may be part of the reason why owners want to call their 91 a 92.

But model year cannot be used as a rule on Z32 as the change over points are not reliable, if you apply August on as a model changeover you WILL get wrong parts.

VIN's will not guarantee correct parts BUT it is the most accurate by far across the board, what do you do when a mechanic complains about wrong part when he did not supply VIN ? I bet I know what you say.

It is just a classic example where people want to make an observation and make it the rule in some sort of promotion of expert knowledge, making it something it is not.

How mechanics and parts dealers deal with this issue in house of part ID does not change the manufacture date, arguing a car is a 92 when it is a 91 is just a feeble attempt to imbelish ones position, to what purpose or end other than sounding silly I do not know.

The only reason I have pursued this is because we have members having problems buying the right spark plugs, we have numbers of threads about cars running badly and it started at the parts counter. Some numpty at SuperCheap decides a Z31 300ZX part is correct for a Z32.

It is simple, the right part is the right part, introducing rules that cannot be used as rules across the bored are just observations, putting it out in the wild as a rule is just irresponsible by motor trade people trying to sound like they know boats.

The result ?

People calling a 91 build a 92, call spares, requesting a 92 part, the parts counter guy decides its a 93 because there is a part change in January and he has it on the shelf etc etc, que 3 stooges music.

 

Just finished modified shifter. Install and test tomorrow. 15mm raise of ball/bushings. Experimenting, fingers crossed.

 

Why you do that Roadie ?

 

moved the pivot point so its changed it to a short shifter

 

Yup, yup. Some very capable and knowledgeable tech-savvy members here claim that the OEM shifter is less notchy/clunky when modified to a short throw shifter than most of the aftermarket purpose built ones. I'm hoping this modification will reduce the throw from around 125mm to about 85mm.

 

This mornings effort:



Clear coat and install either today or tomorrow.

I was/am the biggest car n00b ever prior to joining this forum, but thanks to a high percentage of you members and excellent threads covering most everything car related(not just Z's) I am starting to tackle just about anything these days. Thank you for the inspiration.

I've been very busy lately, there is an unVeil(Side)ing coming soon.

 

started it up. warmed it up. boost leak test, took it for a test drive and good to go for another couple of passes.

 

Why do you need that? Surely living in the post apocalyptic wastelands like you do you'd have the fastest hands of any of us?

 

Only while on the interwebs late at night.

 

Will make you go blind

 

Hey Roadie, did you use the tech section example?

 

I went with one of the Big Guns around here and used BLACK BEAST's write-up on it:

http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=297534&highlight=short+shifter

Tech section pdf. here:

http://tech.aus300zx.com/shortthrow/SHORT-SHIFTER.pdf

The tricky bit is getting the ball down in order to grind the upper splines, I actually had to cut into the ball nearly 10mm as there were also splines inside the ball stopping it from going down which I didn't expect, then fill the ball with weld to fix it. Took me nearly 3 hours to do it.

 

Yea, I knew about the pdf but I hadn't seen the right up. Thanx Roadie.

 

Finished building Jaycar Independent Electronic Boost Controller and the hand controller unit. Hopefully will be able to fit it and give it a go tomorrow.

Link for more info on the unit: http://autospeed.com.au/cms/article.html?&A=2541