UAS HICAS Eliminator Kit

Hey rob I am interested!!

Let me know how to order and when u need the deposit.
cheers Ben:zlove:

 

Rob, as soon as I saw this thread I thought I might have a better alternative to my HICAS delete plans for this spring.
I love the craftmanship of the UAS product as it looks extremely well made.
Unfortunately, it doesn't quite address my concerns with the outer tie rod end of the HICAS toe arm. Specifically, what I see occuring with some zeds around here is that the outer tie rod end's ball joint on the spindle are getting to the point of wearing out (as in my case). More than likely due to age and mileage. That being the case, I was hoping the UAS kit would also include that part of the HICAS elimination process.
I was looking to alternatives to the Driftworks Total HICAS Elimination Kit and thought this might be it.
The Driftworks kit includes the subframe bracket and attaching rose-jointed adjustable toe arm, but it also include a bracket on the far end of that rod with a polyurethane bushing to replace the spindle bushing and of course also replaces the need to retain the oem outer tie rod end.
Even after that I thought I'd do a price comparison and the Driftworks package is $325AUD.
If the UAS Kit was somewhat similar to the Driftworks by including the removal of the outer and inner HICAS tie rod and was price competitive enough, than I'd surely jump onto it.
I'd much prefer to have the polished bits instead, but.......
I hope the GB goes well though.
Cheers,
John

 

John
I was the first to post the driftworks elimination kit on this forum as I was looking for the best kit vs money .

After extensive research I have realised that rose joint /balljoint is a much better setup than the rose joint /bush .
(Not interested in a debate with this ,if you disagree thats fine)

As far as costs is concerned there is a lot more labour involved in pressing the bushes in/out on the balljoint end.Would be the same as buying a new ball joint.So no money saving there.

End of the day its all about another good quality product on the market for the Z to choose from.

 

Looks good

Will make the installation of my diff covers easy, at this stage I haven't come up with a plan that is workable while retaining HICAS or even a HICAS lock out bar
These kits however will sort that problem
Thread hijack finished

 

The price

is ridiculous, even at $340+ for ten,sorry it had to said.

 

Use the brackets that have been made but fit NA style adjustable toe rods
Easy as, takes all of ten minutes to swap from ball joints to bushes & works as per factory design no trouble at all.
There is a rod end to take care of any twisting movement at the inner end & if the NA had bushes on the outer & inner surely any twisting must so small a rod end will take it no trouble.

As per:

 

Won't disagree with you on that point at all. Love to see alternatives and options continue to be exploited.
You've peeked my interest in the ball joint replacement part of the HICAS delete scenario. From some of the "few" threads I've seen on those installing the Driftworks package, the pressing out of the old ball joint from the spindle didn't look all that complicated. I take it's the cost factor of doing so that's the caveat you're refering to?
In my case, I have to replace my spindle ball joint anyway, so in any case the cost factor was a given. Now whether that ball joint replacement (in the spindle) is another oem type so as to retain the outer tie rod end, I "believe" I would be compelled to replace that outer tie rod end as well. The reason being that if my alignment guy has addressed a fatigued outer tie rod it would be a combination of that outer tie rod and spindle bushing in concert. If you see where I'm coming from. It wouldn't be practicle in my mind to replace only the spindle busing and not the outer tie rod end at the same time. That's why I figured replacing the spindle bushing (with the Driftworks one) and not having to replace the outer tie rod end would in the big scheme of things not be a smart move. I may be retaining a weak link to the whole process.
Is this making any sense here?
Now if UAS offereed a nicely machined outer tie rod end with a new knuckle joint attached and a replacement spindle bushing then the complete rod assembly has been addressed. Although I haven't priced out what new oem outer tie rod end (with knuckle attached) would cost but I'm guessing it's not cheap.

Rob, my appologies for the lack of calculating the shipping fees as well. My God they charge an outrageous amount. You think they were shipping gold or crystal or something.

I guess I'll have to re-think my HICAS plans.... again.
Now I have to price out an oem outer tie rod end (HICAS type) and an oem spindle bushing (if in fact those are even available).
Just out of curiousity, aren't the (non HICAS) NA's spindle toe arm pretty much the same design as the Driftworks anyway? If so, than I don't see the sacrfice line of thought by replacing the spindle bushing with the Driftworks type. Doesn't the NA's front Traction Arm have more control over the range sweep of the toe alignment anyway? If my research is correct, one would get a slight increase in Toe In under full compression which to my mind isn't such a bad thing anyway. Am I wrong here?
Maybe I should have posed these questions in another thread as I think this is not helping Rob's UAS product any. Appologies an that as well Rob. I guess I'm just trying to educate myself on this.
Thanks guys.

 

The F1

billet lock bar cost me $125, and dose exactly the same thing as the uas HC,E kit, I don't doubt the manufacturing cost for one moment, because manufacturing anything in aus is expensive, thats why company's move off shore, and have been doing so for years.
in order to survive.

 

Is this your Z? Is that an NA rear end (subframe) as well?

 

Yeah that's my one, no that is the TT subframe but with tabs welded on to allow NA style toe arms to be fitted.
The exact same result as the bolt on parts UAS are offering, bolt on is obviously the way to go for those without the gear to weld etc at home or whatever.

If you have good outer ball joints then UASs kit would be ideal but in my opinion if you had worn ball joints then just the brackets from UAS & then a pair of adjustable toe arms from an NA with a pair of outer bushes would do the trick well.

Not trying to screw around with UASs sales or what ever - they may even make a few more if they offered just the brackets as well as the full kits
(then I can sell more diff covers te he he! )

 

1. rob260
2. Black Beast
3. Zano
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.

 

Thanks Rob.
It would be nice to see what an oem replacement ball joint and outer HICAS Tie Rod end would cost. I would have to factor those parts in as well as the UAS kit to see the overall cost differential.
Because I'm still learning about this stuff, I'd like to know if an NA Traction Rod can be attached to the TT spindle as well? If so, is there the corresponding subframe attachment point for it?
I agree and so does the Driftworks company that there will be approximately a 1mm play generated throughout the sweep of the rear end. However, apparently, that freeplay is supposed to translate to an inwards (toe-in) directional play which is not entirely bad at all. For launches and other aspects, that minute amount of toe-in will not generate an unsafe condition nor will it genrate undue wear of tires as this would only be present at the extremities of compression. An ever so slight toe-in on max compression is not something I think I would worry about in comparison to conditions encountered with worn outer HICAS tie Rod ends / ball joints. Am I wrong in my thinking?

 

Nope, the NA toe rod runs from a mount on the subframe that the TT doesn't have, it could be welded on though. Only way it can be attached to the hub is to remove the ball joint and install a bush like Mungy. So there is no way to run the NA rod using the TT ball joint.

I wouldn't be too worried about the flex in the bushs either, the traction arms, camber arms and lower arms all attach to the hubs or subframe with bushes.

I like the design of the UAS kit though, very clever. Although a bit pricey, I can see how it would cost that much to make. Quite fiddly. :thumbup:

 

Or use the UAS bolt on mounts

The bolt that runs through the mount & rod end runs through a hole that already exists on the TT subframe, this location can be used with the NA toe rods - adjustable ones at least.

I've had the NA style bushes in my knuckles for a couple of years at least now & abused the shite out of the car at track days etc. No known issues so far