hi all did a search, found a lot of "clutch" stuff but not what i was after. anyone know the difference between the NA and TT fan clutch? some places sell one for each, others just sell the 1, is it cut in temp? will it matter which one I use? someone paid over 1k (receipt in the boot) to have a local auto elec install a thermo wired to ign, so i'm undoing that job for the factory setup but since i will be buying the fan and coupling new i would like to know if there is anything i should be on the lookout for. thanks
Hi, they are functionally different...the TT ones have a yellow paint dot on the viscous housing and NA a green dot if I am not mistaken.
yeah Nissan has different part number, my interest is in what the actual difference is if anyone knows. as some aftermarket fan clutches are *suit Z32 turbo and non turbo. i would like to guess that these are TT units... as i figure TT cooling would be more demanding so you should be capable of putting a TT coupling on an NA with no ill effects?
Wondering what the specs of that electric fan are. In NT with a TT, so you aren't satisfied with the efficiency or effectiveness of that electric system?
Yep, they're different but interchangeable. The NA fan I had used a core/clutch that was slightly shorter so the fan wasn't as close to the radiator and the fan blades were more square, TT ones have trailing edges on the tips. I didn't do any performance testing between them but if they're the same/similar price when you buy new then I'd go TT for sure. Can't remember if you can mix'n'match the blades and the cores.
One shaft is longer so the fan is further forward. I could take a guess which one but it would only be a guess. Will let someone that knows 100% say which one is for what motor. Cheers Dave
a tt viscous has a longer shaft to clear the larger harmonic balancer, so a tt can be used on a na but not the other way around hope i got that right
Not from personal experience but I have seen plenty of post's where people have bought aftermarket (non genuine) clutch fans only to have a bad run and end up getting genuine units in the end. Something to keep in mind
The Nissan part numbers are as follows The fan coupling used on all Z32 TT's is 21082-40P10. The fan coupling used on all Z32 NA's is 21082-40P00 The part number for the fan is 21060-40P00 or 21060-40P0A which is used on all Z32's. When the fan coupling engages it will not drive the fan at 100% of the input shaft speed. Some couplings run around 60% of the input shaft speed, while others will run at 80 or 90%. It could be possible that the NA fan coupling has more slip than the TT version. This would result in less engine horsepower loss, as the NA engine produces less horsepower & less heat than a TT. But that is merely a theory, the only way to determine the amount of slip would be to measure the input shaft speed in relation to the fan speed. Then again it may be as Rollin suggested & be related to the shaft length which could be verified by measuring the two couplings.
QLDZDR, i have a great dislike of thermo fans and a fair amount of good experience with viscous coupling driven fans. only thing that even stands a chance of cooling the 6.5 turbo diesel in my 80 series cruiser is a viscous fan and quality shroud. these things are known for overheating, so there is plenty of information about the correct construction of shrouds, fan depth in shroud clearance etc. i'm not saying that a thermo couldn't work as efficiently, but in my opinion just ripping them out of the box and attaching them directly to the radiator isn't giving them a fair chance. and as i have read from many other the standard shroud and fan are more than up to the task when tracking a Z, the Rad i believe was noted to be one of the weaker links provided every other component is in good health. my guess would be that any aftermarket coupling would be to a TT coupling as it could be applied to both (this seems like common sense, but only where the manufacture specifies 1 fan to suit both Turbo and NA) since Rollin mentioned the difference in length earlier. Thanks East Coast, i was certain when i looked it up (some time back) that there were in fact different part numbers. as to the differences (other than length) i was thinking cut in temp might have been an issue... Stumagoo, too late for me i am afraid... i've purchased a new coupling, i will just have to see how it goes. was far cheaper than genuine so its no real loss if it doesn't do the job. once i flush the system and go back to stock + new bits *some off topic history, The car came for sale with a brand new water pump, thermostat and lower radiator hose in the boot along with the receipt for all the work to swap over to an E fan... i don't trust it and i don't know why the swap?!? the receipt states that an e-fan and wiring was removed and a new e-fan, relay and wiring installed.... seems like someone was chasing cooling issues in the past the car was purchased requiring a new slave as it wouldn't bleed up, worked fine when bleed using both bleed locations... if it wasn't for a profusely leaking rear main i would have been doing back flips at that point. but given some of the quality of work and random modifications it would appear that a (not necessarily the guy i purchased from) previous owner didn't do a lot of research on the car. power windows also failed to work, i fixed this by repairing dry jointed solder connection the the power window amp on the drivers door... this is just an example of some of the info i have gleaned from forums, electric drivers seat repair was another...
I use viscous fan because it works as cooling my NA on a hot day in traffic, but it does suck the power and increase fuel economy. I see this as a trade off that I will live with after having overheated cars in the past. I just wanted to know what the spec of an efan that costs $1000 is and also get an idea if it even had a chance of working. Does your Zed have a 2000 spec or aftermarket front bar with a big mouth or was the fan sucking air through the series 1 slit.
its not a $1k e fan by any means its a 1k labor+parts for an auto elec company to remove an old e-fan and wiring, install a new e-fan and wiring with relay... the fan its self looks like a re purposed oem item from another car.... its not something i would have been happy to pay 1k for... the car just has the s1 slit, but the Aux fan and condenser are all still installed. eventually i hope to get AC again (need a new compressor) the under tray is also missing.
