START YOU BASTARD!!!

Discussion in 'Technical' started by MagicMike, Jan 5, 2009.

  1. MagicMike

    MagicMike Moderator Staff Member

    Ok so lets just say that this is the prob...

    Do I just pull the belt off (AGAIN), then the sprockets (as in is there a need to pull the plenum, cam covers etc)?

    Can I replace (bodge) the pin with the cams still in?
     
  2. Chrispy

    Chrispy Pretentious Upstart

    Yeah, just pull the belt and the VVT sprockets. I fixed Martin's with a bit of 4mm allen key. Drilled the old pin out and tapped the allen key in after rounding it up a bit with a grinder.
     
  3. MagicMike

    MagicMike Moderator Staff Member

    If only I had a grinder...
     
  4. heavytrevy

    heavytrevy "Hammer time "

    Jesus Mike ur not really getting a brake are ya?
    hopefully this will be the last of ur probs and you can get down to enjoying the fruits of ur labour :zlove:

    will ur setup see the dyno when run in ?

    Trev
     
  5. Chrispy

    Chrispy Pretentious Upstart

    Buy one.
     
  6. rollin

    rollin First 9

    It does fit the symptoms mike, the big clues i think are low vac at idle and the fuelly residue in the plenum.

    After the last one i was going to make up a modified balance tube that kept each bank seperate so that we could test the vac on either side.

    I never got round to it but i suppose it could also be done by just removing the balance tube and blocking off the plenum teporarily.

    a difference in vac on each bank will confirm the diagnosis.

    The only ohter thing i can think of is the VTC stuck on on one bank, can u check that on the datascan? and possible flick each one in and out to make sure its not the actual vtc unit stuck internally??
     
  7. MagicMike

    MagicMike Moderator Staff Member

    Ok so the locating pins are there and secure on the drivers bank (the bank that is not firing) :(

    More info on the VTC?

    Any other ideas people???
     
  8. rollin

    rollin First 9

    with some software it is possible to engage the vtc units and apparantly almost stall the car out when engaged.

    It is possible that a VTC unit would stick in the engaged position.

    Other weird cause could be a severley blocked exhaust on that one bank.


    Have u got an old balance tube u can cut and block off like i said.

    I think the vacum reading needs more investigation
     
  9. MagicMike

    MagicMike Moderator Staff Member

    Does anyone have a large skip bin we can fit the car into? Or know of one where we can do a quick dump and run??

    Cara aka Mrs Magic
     
  10. a2zed

    a2zed Guest

    Does the right hand bank pop out of the exhaust when idling?, if you have a balance pipe in the exhaust both will sound the same.

    Have you ruled out the possiblity that bank is loosing compression from valves not sealing properly, this will give a fuel residue in the intake manifold and also low manifold vacuum.

    Maybe it is time for a leak down test before you pull too much more apart.
     
  11. MagicMike

    MagicMike Moderator Staff Member

    Bloody timing belt tensioner lug has broken off AGAIN!!! That setup is the f'ing stupidest idea ever :diespam::diespam::diespam::diespam:
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2009
  12. K-zed

    K-zed Secret Squirrel

    Agreed

    Leak-down test will eliminate or prove that possibility. Have you found the vacuum leak Mike?
     
  13. MagicMike

    MagicMike Moderator Staff Member

    Can't do much til I can bodge something for the timing belt tensioner/get ANOTHER one :(

    How does a leak down test work? What does a leak down test tell us as opposed to a comp test? Excuse the stupid question please...
     
  14. a2zed

    a2zed Guest

    A leak down test is done with the engine off, remove each plug and fill that cylinder with air while the valves are closed. Leak down test will determine the percentage of air lost over a short time. you can also listen for where the air is going, ie, sump-intake-exhaust, while doing the test. Will give you a good indication of ring and valve seating ability. Leak down test will tell alot more thann a comp test.
     
  15. MagicMike

    MagicMike Moderator Staff Member

    Ok cool, so is there a special tool needed to do the test? How do we get the air into there?

    Who's done a 100km service lately? Who's got an old timing belt tensioner I can have? (want to steal the bracket off it and put one of the 2 pullies I have here onto it)
     
  16. rollin

    rollin First 9

    Got about 3 to chose from here mike, bit of a drive tho mate.

    Yeah a special tool is required, try trade tools or repco, it attatches to a compressor, not overly expensive from memory.
     
  17. cbzx

    cbzx cbzx

    Have you checked

    that the CAS locating pin has not been broken in the cam or on the CAS.
    Causing it to only fire on one bank only.

     
  18. MagicMike

    MagicMike Moderator Staff Member

    Nah mate, just been to check that out and it's there and secure...
     
  19. cbzx

    cbzx cbzx

    Re:- Electrical

    As per Karl. Re check the plugs Remove the rubber boots from the back for the CAS, PTS, TPS, and air flow meter MAF. use a small screwdriver and push in each and every electrical connector from the back. The injectors are easy just lissen to them with a screwdriver to tell if they work.


     
  20. a2zed

    a2zed Guest

    I have now got Mikes car at home, have pulled the plenum tonight. Checked and measured the valvetrain, leak down test, bore-scoped the valves, cylinders and turbos, all is good with the expensive bits.

    Intercooler needs to be removed and flushed as well as all boost pipes. There is just alot of small issues which added up to a 3 cylinder vg. Should be running by Sunday afternoon.
     

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