So..... I did the plenum pull and swap. Re-assembled and fired it up. Could not get the idle down below 1500rpm. Suspected a big vac/boost leak since the peak psi was low at the Happy Laps. Started boost leak testing everything, section by section. Turns out that having 2 BLT's is very handy with 2.5in piping, as it allows you to test the entire IC and turbo setup, 1 side at a time. I had 1 BLT on the intake pipe that starts under the headlight, and the other BLT on the pre throttle body hardpipe. Drivers side was perfect, pass side not so much. I could hear a leak but dammed if I could find it. Well I did in the end. It was not visible to the eye, but I could feel air escaping from one of the AMS hardpipes. I ended up pulling the pipe out and submerging in water and sure enough, tiny bubbles. Seems the weld wasn't so good and has been ground back smooth before painting. 2 BLT's also allows you to test the plenum by itself (1 BLT on drivers throttle body, 1 on pass side). This also tested perfect. Anyway, so the leak I found obviously wasn't the cause of high idle, so I re-assembled again and fired it up. Same high idle. IAC % was good, TPS voltage was good, but I then noticed that it wasn't getting a closed throttle input. A bit more dicking around I found that it would get closed throttle with TPS at .2V. Swapped TPS from Cara's car, same result. Swapped back, did a TPS reset and BAM, all good, idle back to normal. I also did the HKS DLI install, and gapped the propper TT plugs to .8mm (previously running new denso NA plugs that had to be gapped down to .5mm @ 20ish psi). Haven't test driven yet, but except for the tiny leak from the hardpipe, touchwood, all should be good.
Bit more progress today. Swapped out a rear caliper that sprung a leak for an old one from another pair I had. That should be ok til I rebuild a pair. Also finished the relocation of the windscreen washer bottle to the boot. I had previously run the electrics to the boot and bought a generic washer bottle a bit over 1l in capacity as an option other than the ugly stock unit. Today I decided that the generic one would be best so I had to change out the connectors to suit and run the plumbing. This new res/pump makes the rear washer non operable. Also doesnt have a level indicator. Care factor zero. Pics tomorrow. Also removed front bar again to have a crack at fitting the ducts to the SMICs. Going through the mount/mark/remove/trim/repeat steps now. Should finish tomorrow touchwood. Also should mention I did get to test drive after ignition amp install and it is running well with no breakdown at all. Cleaner idle also.
All done. New washer res and location behind battery. Fits snug (by good luck not judgement) and new ducting behind new powertrix max flow carbon ducts
Top job with the attention to detail relocating flow blocking components and installing the ducting. That washer bottle jammed in the trunk with folded over carpet to suit really lets down the install though - you can do better!
Oh found a small issue with the relocate... Due to the mass of water in the long line from boot to front, and the big brakes, under heavy braking the windscreen gets a wash lol
So Toshi came up to QLD to tune some cars last week, mine included. Started the day connecting everything needed and then setting the selin switch to AVE instead of the previous ADD. Then spent a few hrs driving up and down a long private road tuning in some response. Turned boost progressively up to 24.5psi and tinkered some more. Once we were happy with how it was driving we headed for the dyno. Result was 616hp at 24.5 on bp 98, right off the bat. The only issue we encountered was running out of fuel above 6000rpm. With the dyno holding the engine at load at 6k, no matter what was done to the fuel map it got leaner and leaner in this cell. Tried bumping fuel pressure without change. At extended MAX load and high rpm the fuel pressure would drop. Unsure what to make of this. Injector duty is only 60ish. Few thoughts bantered around on the day were FPR not cutting it (sard), fuel lines or rail too small (stock twin in/out), fuel pumps not up to it (sard in tank and bosch 044 at surge tank) and finally possibly the surge tank too small and being emptied. So while I am happy with the outcome, it would be nicer had we have got a max figure at 7.2k rpm as the 616 was at about 6k when we backed off. Those in the know of all things big fuel systems, please, enlighten me.
Not real big, about 2L I'd guess. Also of note, even with afm voltage set to AVE, we were seeing 4.2v
Just guessing on the surge tanks operation but it should be recieving a feed from a pump .. So I doubt that it's emptying out on you. If you were altering the map and the pressure and no change then logically unless the FPR is cactus you'd lean towards a supply issue. Your duty cycle is similar to mine at those levels. As discussed I'd like to see this on a roller dyno which would be curious if the same issues presented themselves
Is it just me, or is the Torque and Power coming quite late. It's almost as if the VTC isn't working?
Yeah it does show quite late. Not sure if it had to do with the rpm that the dyno was set to catch rpm at? Dont know enough about hub dynos. Toshi prefered to use hub dyno as wheelspin etc is eliminated
