Discussion in 'Member's Garage' started by rob260, Dec 30, 2013.
some people never learn
good to see you found the problems .
sticking with the same turbos?
I'm learning, slowly lol
Turbos were the first thing to go; not sure what I'll replace them with as of yet but I'd be crazy not to take advantage of more modern tech.
Funny thing before pulling the heads down the machine shop guy says "this sort of thing is pretty common in engines that were pushed to hard before they were run in" lol
So to answer your question, I don't have anything in mind, should make more thav last time as it'll have a few upgrades but at this stage I'll settle for "enough" and count the chickens when they hatch haha
What about the valve seats what they look like? Glad The bottom end is ok. hopefully you can trap 140+ This time
Ha might need to upgrade the driver as well
Didn't get a good look at the valve seats as the heads were in the washer and I only got a loon at the other side when he was explaining the issue with the guides.
Practice makes perfect! I mean hopefully someone gets in the 150mph area sometime soon. Black beast could I reckon if his block stayed together
If his game enough to rev it there, his my bet
If not I'm potentially looking at a certain vr38 zed when it's ready to rock and roll
Haven’t done much lately but have picked up some more parts for it.
I sent my Series 2 BDE gears back to Brett to get modified for a third element timing indicator. The series 2 gears are factory adjustable so that you can dial in the center line of the cams, Brett’s modification means that you can adjust the cams to zero out the centre line, and then make further adjustments for tuning without losing your 0 point. It’s a nice feature -note degree marking are in 2 degree increments so that they reflect adjustment relative to the crank; details details details... I’m sure the 10.25mm lift will give the VTC a work out but I’d rather have it than not so we’ll see.
Also picked up a BDE oil filter relocation kit. I was originally going to use an NA filter tree to clear the larger oil pan but this is an even better solution. It uses -10 ORB fittings and seals with o rings straight onto the block. I’ll be keeping these in AUS for anyone else interested.
Brett’s attention to detail really is second to none.
Lastly a couple of interior bits. I’ve had a Nismo speedo for a while and it’s bugges me that the Nismo font doesn’t match the newer style logo I have on my shifter and horn button. Well not any more.... I managed to score an old style shift knob from Ron the Wizard, and an old style horn button from eBay. The shifter needed a retrim but came up a treat thanks to Mike Cooper Trimming in Asquith.
Got the heads back and looking much cleaner.
Kept the JUN Ti retainers and Springs
Got a new set of Ferrea 1mm O/S intake valves. The old Ferrea exhaust valves went missing in the shop (which I guess is a liability when you let things slide for the better part of a year) so we struck a deal on a new set of inconel valves. The owner was fully prepared to cover the cost but I was happy to chip in being new and better parts, and having taken my sweet time getting the intakes etc over there...
A combination of trimmed guides and custom stem seals means there’s now clearance at 11.5mm lift whereas before the seas were bottoming out at roughly 8.5mm lift. Seats have also been recut so everything seals properly again.
Just wanted to ad some pics of the portwork. For everything that didn’t work out I have to give credit to Richard he did an awesome job opening them up.
Anyway after all that they won’t be going back on the next motor as I purchased a set of late Series heads along the way. These guys have been sold to a very good friend for a song and will hopefully give him years of hassle free boosting.
So what have we learnt? Always measure how much lift can be obtained before bottoming out the stem seals and make sure this suits your cam profile...
What's the benefit of the late series heads? Interested as I have a complete late series engine to go in the 2 seater once that build begins.
Better fuel atomisation. Splitting hairs really, decision was based on a number of factors, I also wanted a clean slate to try some different things out.
Few more things happening. Progress from the machine shop has been slow but I’m using the wait time to make changes and improve things...
The series 2 NA heads have been CNC ported. At the moment I’m waiting for some custom valves to come in and the we should be able to get them finished and assembled.
I’ve also switched out my VTC intakes for a solid setup. I’ve gone back and forth about this at least a dozen times but ultimately want is bulk RPM so lightweight is what I want... this (2517g) is the weight of the new cam/sprocket/fastener assembly, does anyone know what a stock assembly weighs? The cam shafts will be heavier but I suspect I’ve saved a bit on the sprocket and also where it counts (hanging off the cam shaft).
New intake cams are custom items from JUN again with BDE sprockets and I’ve managed to source some stainless fasteners. I understand that SS won’t have the tensile strength of OEM, haven’t yet crunched the numbers on torque spec vs yield strength but worst case I’ll swap them out for zinc plated high tensile.
Have also scored some OEM VTC solenoid plugs along the way. Hard to find as they were only used in late model Cali cars.
Anyway that’s it for now. More to come soonish I hope!
Wow an update, nice one Rob. Where's the photos of the wheels...
Wheels are still stacked up in my shed, I reckon I can get to a year without moving them if I really try lol
great work rob , im slowly reading what you have done , plus our phone calls , this engine will be just crazy when its all done and sorted , great job
You mentioned that you're going for bulk RPM, what parts are you switching out to give you the higher red-line? Also, how are you going to determine the new red-line in RPM? Is there a formula or is it a bit of trial and error?
Solid lifter, crank shaft modifications, ti retainers, lightweight cam and crank pulleys, race type harmonic balancer, modified timing belt idler bearings, engine position sensors... the usual lol.
Re red line I’ll see where it stops making power.
Had some more valve train bits come in.
One of the advantages of the auto/retail thing is making contacts with the big distributors. I wanted to use supertech EV8 intakes and Inconel exhausts but they are only available in .5mm oversize off the shelf. I was able to have a set custom made in 1mm oversize.
Inconel as you can see is a bit of a trade off as it weighs more despite being the physically smaller valve. The longevity with Inconel however is very good for turbocharged applications -like an OEM valve.
Am also using dual springs and titanium retainers. These are good for up to 12mm lift in the configuration I will run. Will probably need to trim the guides and the guide boss but we’re off to a good start.
The whole assembly is a pretty good compromise between weight and being up to the job. By that a mean a single spring assy would be lighter but I would lose in max lift and seat pressure which it will need.
Oh and I have also some bronze valve guides. These are Ferrea products advertised as being for VG30DE so I will be interested in seeing how much lift can be had without needing to modify them.
Seeing as I’ve weighed everything else and someone somewhere down the line may like to know...
After all this and your connections with JUN, Where's the stroker kit for the bottom end?
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