Hey all Doing an auto to manual conversion and need to lastly install the manual pilot bush before the marriage Went to remove the auto pilot bush and it's so huge, might as well call it an adapter rather than a bush! Don't have a pilot bush remover, so I was going to split the bronze bush with a chisel but my dream ended when I saw it was a solid piece of thick steel. Looked at pullers but it's too narrow to get two legs in there' Anyone have any idea's / suggestions /hints / tricks for removing this puppy that sits on the end of the crankshaft and guides the spigot into place? Thanks for reading....now help me out ......(with that famous trick your dad taught you on removing the bush when you were just a puppy........) :rofl: JC :zlove:
I just use a long 1/2" extension, usually fits pretty well and then just push down on it, might have to move it around a bit too. Comes out suprisingly easy.
Appreciate the response Tried that......... but with a long breaker bar and I even used freeze and release on the bush as well at the same time. Its only a 1cm lip holding it in - but it seems to be such a real tight bloody fit that it don't even budge at all with a breaker bar! (Really tight fit - clearly pressed in) Wondering if you were just lucky to have a loose one as its a fairly large bar I have to lever with...........I even tried it again after reading this......no joy....this auto pilot bush might as well be welded in! JC
The approved method is to fill the empty space inside(and beneath/behind said Bush)with Wheel-bearing Grease, followed by inserting a Spigot Shaft or similar bar(with the same external diameter)into the bush and drive it in with a Mallet). This should push the bush backward and out(has worked for me for over 50yrs).:zlove::bash:
Appreciate the response Chilli Is this for an auto pilot bush as well or just manual? Just to clarify - I use a tight fitting shaft with the same diameter as the spigot into the bearing and am using the grease under pressure to push it back out (Just have to find something similar as I don't have a spare spigot offhand) Regards JC
Yep, you have it correctly. I have used this method on Manual Z32's(and Automatics of other brands). I can't say categorically that it works on a Z32 Auto(but it certainly does on other cars, on which I have worked).:zlove:
If yours is super stuck, could always try one of these http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GEAR-BEARING-PULLER-PULLEY-BUSH-GEAR-FLYWHEEL-AXLE-PILOT-CLUTC-REMOVER-HAND-TOOL-/260877918229?hash=item3cbd892015
Hi SuperZ....I have gone down that road you are treading on now and I tried the grease and shaft method, I have only done 3 manual conversions on a 300zx in the past and this method was the easiest/quickest, for me anyway. If you have exhausted all other methods and dont have any special extraction tool then do it this way....It may not be so elegant but it worked for me. In all my attempts the motor was still in the car which made it a little more difficult. Find a large nut and bolt, the bolt must be able to fit into the centre hole of the steel bush and make contact to the crank hole face. Screw the bolt onto the nut and postition the nut onto the steel bush and then screw the bolt in until it just makes contact with the crank face in the hole. At this point clamp your arc welder earth onto the bolt head and weld the nut sufficiently to the steel bush. Allow to cool, add spray lube and then tighten up the bolt and the bush will extract with ease. DO NOT put the earth clamp of the welder in any other position on the motor other than on the bolt head or nut.
I got a dowel machined up just small enough to fit. Then fill the bush with grease and gave it a good whack. Made the bush pop staight out in 1.
Don't have a welder anymore Otherwise that would have worked for sure! Tried finding something flush with the inside of the bush - ended up using a 13mm socket/ extension and mallet then packed with grease. But the grease just kept coming out of the fine .5mm diameter gap left behind - tried to use a 14mm socket but it won't fit as its too large so will try to find some dowel to get that finer fit of around 13.5mm. (Tried imperial as well). I could see this method working for manual but my auto bush seems to be super stuck and so I'm not overly sure this will work even though the theory is sound - have nothing to lose but time given that repco would take a day or two to order it in anyway. Might have to bite the bullet here and buy a dedicated pilot bush remover I appreciate all the replies....even if I haven't had any luck as yet JC :zlove:
Try packing wet tissues into the bush and use a piece of wooden dowel wrapped in insulation tape to make it a snug fit, has worked every time for me.
Was keen to try the Chilli method...being a long term firey and knowing how effective hydraulic pressure can be Once I used the grease on the first try, I went back and found the 14mm socket actually fit and it went right back to the crank (a good sign...?) Refilled with grease and used a mallet to hit it hard - no compression (another good sign......?) Got a ball-pein hammer and hit it harder, still no compression but also no movement of the bush..... Got a club hammer and hit it harder, still no compression but no movement either......... Not game enough to use a suicide / sledge hammer..........figure I would just damage the crank bearings at that amount of force and be in much larger trouble....... figure club hammer is about the limit............ Resigned to the fact - that without a welder.........I will need a dedicated pilot bush remover..........to avoid any damage to other parts............since this one is super tight stuck. Cheers though all ....some good ideas mentioned here.....just sometimes I figure you need the proper tool when things are being a real PITA to remove. JC :zlove:
Have you put more grease in and tried to see if it is actually compressing before you belt it with the hammer ?. May just need a bit more grease.
I have such a tight fit with the socket that although it slides to all the way to the crank - the grease still cannot escape. So once it's packed fully with grease I can feel it stop from the hydraulic pressure almost instantly! (working well so far - no compression from the hydraulic pressure is what you want) Problem is - that it is so super stuck tight, I will be using more shock force than is advisable on a crank (not going to use a sledgehammer on the crank - as the club hammer is big enough already - do not want to damage the crank bearing/ retainers) In short - just being a PITA - will need the proper tool given its being a real problem - never had one this tight before (or this oversized - lol) I figure it will take about 70lbs / ft torque on a dedicated bush puller just to get it to break free - it's seriously on that tight that even the puller will have a hard time to start with!
Just use bread, cleaner and less prone to spill over the edges. If its being a real pain give it a little tap in to break whatever seal has formed.
Only way.......other than weld a nut........ The auto bush is designed to stay in for a lifetime compared to a manual bush which is designed to last only as long as the clutch. That means it is pressed in at factory under hydraulics! These solid steel babies have a taper only at the top of the crank face, so in effect you have almost a 1cm ring of a steel machined face welding away under high crank temps for twenty years! As I guessed....about 70ft pound torque on a fine thread puller was required to budge this. Only way to do it on an auto is with a puller or welded nut unless your lucky with bread/ grease / levers etc......... ........and the best part is that you can then use it to press a new bush back in rather than smashing/ ruining it with a hammer like an idiot and having a squeaky and noisy gearbox for the next couple of years..... JC :zlove:
Using a puller to push the bush..... Installing with a hammer or socket is a bad way to go on pivot bushes in a VG30DETT - damage is almost guaranteed - show me the FSM where it says use a hammer....... Reinstalling the proper way.................. Using a puller with the crank ring and four OEM bolts to reverse push the bearing in: Parts Needed - bush or bearing puller/ 4 oem flywheel bolts/ bolt ring and a bolt with washer to fit inside the pivot bush (to guide and push the bolt on squarely) Note: You use the OEM fine thread flywheel bolts to pull 1/2 turn each starting at five full turns and the puller adjusted to suit. When pulling - if it gets tight suddenly on all bolts - it means the pivot bush is now up against the crank and the job is done This ensures its remains level on the bush at all times keeping it straight. If the legs make contact as the crank closes in - this means the tripod legs will be force into a central position - you can then go back and use the pullers thread to continue on as it will be held central by the legs. At all times - the bush is held central and straight so you don't need to check visually or adjust angle of the bush - this is a failsafe method ensuring a perfect fit every time. I used an old bush as well (in this pic) as its softer than a steel head bolt but a bolt will do fine - going in straight is the key to prevent squashing/ tapering/ pitting or even splitting the bush ends! End result - perfect fit - no flaring / tapering or damage means no noises/ squeaks! You may freeze the bush or even use some oil to assist with the install however ensure you wipe the bush clean afterwards with a rag. Sandpaper cleaning is counterproductive! The bushes are designed to be left dry - oil or grease can make them squeak! Cheers JC :zlove:
The bush is porous. I have always put oil in it, and pressed in both ends with my fingers to squeeze oil through its body.
