Discussion in 'Member's Garage' started by DUB, Apr 26, 2010.
Haha, I can be so immune to sarcasm sometimes. Touche'!
More progress today with the bolting of the rebuilt turbos to the AMS manifolds.
Most of the time was spent trying to find the bits and pieces I'd put aside months ago :/ Decided the oil and water feed lines looked too dirty so pulled the trusty bench grinder and attached the polishing wheel to it. Polished all the lines before figuring out where they went as well as the dipstick tube. One thing larger than standard manifolds are is not easy to button up! Got the passenger side on the new motor but have to bolt up the oil tree before going ahead with the drivers side.
Also decided to put a flare in the water feed pipe to the passenger turbo. Those that have done the throttle body waterfeed delete will know this pipe normally faces forward towards the throttle body, however when you bypass the throttle the feed now comes from the back of the motor. Much cleaner to cut it so the pipe faces straight up instead of forwards. Putting the flare in the pipe gives the rubber hose something to bite to.
Slowly getting there but I can see a motor bolted to a subframe and gearbox in the near future
I also did exactly this last week, just posting it up in my build thread now. I didn't flare the line though, just trimmed it and ran the hose straight down.
Yeah I trimmed the pipe when I did the bypass with the original motor in situ years ago. It was so long ago that I'd forgotten about it and it took me a little while to realise why the turbo feed pipe I was bolting up to the new turbo was different to the one on my old motor. Doh!
Niiiiiiiiiiiice. Any leakage issues with just a trimmed line? or did you flare that too?
Actually I did notice tonight there was a slight leakage with a little dried coolant sitting around the top of the trimmed tube.
To be honest I reckon you could flare it in situ, just be a little fiddly. Taking the upper intake manifold off would make it much much easier though.
I should look into doing that then. I'll be fitting new ones with my new turbos anyway, so I'll attack them off the car.
Just posted up mine in my thread!
New as in OEM, or new as in redesigned for new turbos? If OEM then you can polish the anodizing off them and they look like brand new with a chrome finish
New OEM I'm quite sure. Part of a CZP turbo kit.
Pulled the oil tree off the old motor today. Pulled it all apart, de-greased it, hit it with wax & grease remover, then painted it gloss black. Polished all the bolt heads while I was waiting for the paint to dry
Bolted it back in only to later realise I had to pull it off again to fit the gearbox support bracket that bolts just under it. Painted both support brackets gloss black and polished the bolt heads while waiting for etc etc.
Reclocked the compressor on the drivers side turbo to allow me to fit the output tube to it and bolted the AMS manifold and turbo on to the motor. Damn hard to do with the turbo already in place. Won't be doing it that way again.
Also polished the alternator, and repainted it's magnet strip gloss black. Bolted that and the power steering pump on to the new motor.
That's it for the day. Looking more like an actual motor more and more. Next I'll bolt the machined flywheel on and the clutch. Then paint the gearbox and mate it to the motor. Then the new engine mounts, bolt it to the subframe and jack it all up from under the car finally. I'll do all the custom plumbing once the engine is in situ again.
Looking Good Brad!
More progress today seeing as the weather has been nice and not freezing cold in the shed.
Painted the intake/output adapters and fitted them to the turbos. Polished all the bolts being used.
Polished the power steering and alternator pulleys as well as the retaining nut and spring washer.
Think I figured out why the boost levels were dropping off on the old motor...
Passenger side was the worst of the two. Poor thing, trying it's absolute hardest to answer the call of my right foot and produce boost when it clearly was very very crook>
Painted the gearbox today.
Paint then clear>
And polished the bolt heads>
I'm currently washing a couple of lower intake manifolds in the dish washer after cleaning a stupid amount of silicon off one of them. There was so much layered on it that some was covering part of the injector ports.
Having all sorts of trouble trying to get the timing belt sproket off the crank on the old motor atm. Anyone got a good way of getting it off?
A week of driving and those poor bolts are going to be all dirty again They must feel so special all nice and shiny and clean..
drill a 6mm hole through its face between the crank keyway and the bottom off one the teeth , its very soft metal and drills very easy.
Then place a chisel between the hole and the bottom of one the the teeth and give it a good hard hit.
2 hits and mine split and came off by hand.
I had been spraying it for days beforehand with penatrine but it was still dry and rusty where it sat on the crankshaft.
Thanks but I want to still use it on the new motor.
Would be easier and fast to just order a new sprocket, Brad.
So did i lol.
Yeah I'm already treading down this path. If it came off easily I could use it and put all the timing belt and cam drives on before I fit the flywheel etc.
The motor is set up with the timing spot on but no timing belt so just a little turn of the crank when attaching the flywheel will put valves to piston faces.
Looks like I'll have to wait until the next lot of parts get here from the US I guess I just want the drive-train together again and in the Z!
Separate names with a comma.