ok, now that i have two projects running concurrently and a few more half done.. ill be quick this morning i dropped my crank back in, flexiguage proved that my bearing clearence was well withing tolerances with the new std size bearings (thoght id douible check on the achine shops work) if anyone ever does this.. make sure the backs of the bearing shells are perfectly dry and clean and same goes for the caps, mains and rods.. you dont want any slip behind the bearings.. and make sure the bolt holes are clen from oil.. you dont want to go snapping bolts off in your block now do you? then a good dose of moly assembly lube on the friction face of all bearings.. alot of people just lube the face of bearings with engine oil.. i like to give the bearings that little bit of extra cuddle befoe that first hit of oil pressure pics new acl duraglide tri-metal bearings the good shit (get it from the 4wd shop in belmont) (dont use it on rings, it will just glaze the bores) always need an action shot.. me torquing the rod bolts
Wish I had the knowledge to do my own engine work. One day... Nice work btw. Can't wait to see/ hear it in person.
something for me to look forward to ey? crank is down getting measured at the moment, just have to hear back what size bearings i need... hopefully no machining is required...
yeah tom.. just push the pistons all the way down the bores to get it back in.. otherwise you will need about 10 hands to line up the rods with the crank(we tried with 4 hands).. as theyre generally not there at all when you do this normally..
lube I would also lube between friction areas off the bolts and nuts so to get a smoother torque setting
nah, theyre greasy enough oh.. but do make sure you get the oil out of the bottom of the mains girdle bolt holes or you will snap them
Got my crank back today from Performance Modifications... same as Andrew... only $54 for a measure up and polishing of the journals. Was pretty happy when it wasn't even a 24hr turn around and good news that she doesn't need machining and that the price was right! Picked her up at lunch time and was happy with the results... Danny even spruced up the counter weights... Heres a piccy for good measure...
well sorry to say andy but... mine is a go faster crank as it is a "tom tom" version... and they beat the "andrew" version.... see pic below for identification note: it is not red but that doesn't matter
What is that tool you have the engine sitting on? Are they very expensive? IT seems like you can spin the engine on it to work on different areas. I ask beacuse my dream project is to own a TT and rebuild the engine. Thank you Donovan
it's just a simple engine stand mate... make sure you get one that is rated to take a decent amount of weight. it bolts the block to the stand and you can rotate the engine while on the stand.
theyre only a hundred odd bucks from super cheap autos (dont quote me on that, but their not expensive)
you can buy them from ConceptZPerformance.com... Rod bearings are $42US Main Bearings: $62-72 depends on grades
or you can get the full set of genuine nissan bearings for around $240USD including shipping with every bearing swain coated. I would also use assembly lube when re-torquing the bolts, especially in the bottom end like what ross mentioned. ACL have just released a new high performance bearing for the RB30 which is the exact same size bearing as the VG30 and it is meant to be tough as. I will be looking at getting these once my crank has been ground and block line bored so that every bearing and clearence is the exact same size i.e. to the 10th of a thou. You could also go the Z31 bearing route, they are a lot stronger but much less forgiving than Z32 tri-metal bearings. Also if you go forged pistons make sure you change your tt oil squirters to N/A squirters. Hurry up and get the engine together Andrew, it is starting to take as long as mine My machinist is slow, but all he does is build race/drag engines so I am letting him take his time with mine lol
I should be able to get the ACL Race Series Main & Rod bearings for cost thru my mate.... Just a tad confused on sizes... In the service manual it goes on bearing grades (0, 1, 2, 3 & 4) and the ACL Bearings (e.g. mains) have STD, .025, .25..... wtf? http://www.aclperformance.com.au/NissanVG30DETTBearings.htm Also, is it uncommon to have different main journal numbers on the cylinder block? Just had a quick squizz in the dark and it looks like there are 2's and 1's... i thought they would be all the same? The crank journal grade numbers are all 1's....
Thats normal for the block also, you add the numbers together on the chart in the service manual. This is one of the biggest flaws nissan did IMO. It would have been easier AND better to keep everything 1 size, also their bolt on counterweight is crap as well. When you work out what size bearings you need on the chart, then you can order your bearings.
