ok so as i understand it, the fuel comes from trank/pump, goes to fuel filter, then dampener, then rail, out the rail into the fuel reg, and back to the tank... the dampeners objective is to reduce or settle pulses in the fuel being fed to the rail. in saying this i dont know many cars that have a fuel dampener. so r u leaving this out ??? what is ur reason for it etc. thanx
Fuel dampener: Not required, what a fuel dampener does is stop customers complaining that they can hear a slight humming noise in their car sometimes. Seriously they are there to stop noise in the fuel system & as you can see there are some serious restrictions inside them that can & will reduce the available flow from the pump if the system is pushed to its limits. Under normal circumstances in a standard car they will never cause an issue & even up to ~ 400Kw you should be OK with it still in the system. After that I wouldn't leave it in there, it's a risk that isn't worth taking IMO. That is my fuel dampener in that photo, I cut it open to see just how small the orifice is, you can already see the stock pipe fittings have only around 4mm internal diameter on all engine fittings. Compare that to the chassis fuel lines, they have a different type of swage that leaves the end at near the same internal diameter as the rest of the pipe.
On our E15et's the common "upgrade' is to fit VL (RB30) throttle bodies. Stock is 44 (they flow almost 400Hp) and VL I seem to remember is 52 or something like that. Subjective back to back in the same session testing on a dyno some time ago revealed what many didnt want to hear. The bigger TB delivered NOTHING on a 150Kw 1500cc turbo engine. What they do do tho is admit large quantities of air at slight throttle openings compared to the smaller stockers making throttle response fairly snatchy down low. L8r E
nice response thanx for that photo so this noise u hear of, this is the pulse of the fuel pressure going through the system. the dampener reduces/settles this pulse though. so ur saying that it doesnt do much in settling the pulses to make any difference to the fuel getting into the eng etc??? (noises aside)
If I put my negative hat on I could say that sudden stop start pulsing from the injectors COULD transmit through the entire system & in the long term damage the pump & fatigue bits n bobs throughout the system. Putting my realistic hat on: It will be fine, plenty of cars run around without them high hp & low hp.
yeah thats logical i guess. most cars dont run them skylines, supra, wrx etc i dont know any of the common sports or not sports cars that use a dampener other than the zed and few others.
AMS exh manifolds arrived, gave them a tickle up here & there, chopped off the EGR boss (isn't machined to be used in any case) fitted the manifolds & turbos. Engine fitted to car, fuel system tested for leaks - repaired the leaks Fitted the gearbox & cranked it over till oil pressure came up, plugged in CAS SHE'S ALIVE!!! Ran it for a few seconds then drained the oil to clear the engine of any build rubbish. Will complete the install tomorrow - well I will complete it enough so I don't have to push it when I need it out of the way to work
Note genuine Snapon blockowood holding engine a little closer to square before gearbox was fitted I might reroute those last bits of wiring that run over the top of the plenum runners, take the water temp sensor wires around the back & under the cover then straight down on to the sensors. Once most things are in place I will alter the length of the fuel lines - they are a couple of inches to long at present.
If you want to neaten the coolant temp wiring (the easy way), you can run it behind the cam sprockets backing plate.
Yeah thanks Simo that's not a bad idea, will see how I go She has everything back on now except the battery, I will be getting a much smaller & lighter item next week. Fired her up & let it get up to operating temp, had one lifter that was a little reluctant to shut up but after two or three minutes it came right - hopefully it doesn't cause an issue later. I can't drive it yet until the battery stuff is sorted but she revs very nicely for a fresh engine, I had to wind the idle screw in a long way to bring revs back down to 1k so hopefully that is a good sign (no it is not a vacuum leak ). Still a few little things that need some minor attention & check oil feed to turbos, look for leaks (none that I know of at the moment) etc but essentially job done Sort out little things then go hit the dyno for a quick run in & then tune. 550 - 600 Hp ?? should do 500 no trouble at all but we will see
Oh sorry errr 350Kw (ish) if it will go to 407Kw without being dangerous then I will do that - just to beat Mad Mike :rofl: then lower the boost so I can drive it ... in a straight line that is :rofl: As it is at the moment with some tidying up to be done but essentially the finished item: Not a lot of change from a quick glance but a lot less clutter than stock. Need a jell cell then I can take it for a drive need to do some work & earn some money then I can buy a jell cell :rofl:
I did it the hard way & smoothed the entire plenum then painted it with PPG 2K Cobra. There are some parts that I worked on this time round that I have just touched up with a brush & they look like ass at the moment but once all is running well I may respray the whole thing.
dampner also acts as a one way valve and keeps the pressure in the feed line.. i deleted mine a while ago.. but its back in now. car drives and idles alot better with it in !!!! without the dampner it was harder 2 start and would drop from revs to idle and almost stall..
Interesting, I've got one cut open right in front of me but can't see how it would work as a check valve? there is a steel insert on the diaphragm that will come up against the inlet pipe when fuel pressure reduces in relation MAP, BUT the inlet pipe has two slots cut in it at the end so it will not seal against the diaphragm etc. Have to wait & see how mine goes later on as far as idle etc, seems OK at the moment though
