You dont need any fancy apps... Just hold CTRL and Scroll with middle mouse wheel. :zlove: Yours was pretty dirty. But she cleaned up OK with a bit of degreaser, the hose and a toothbrush For the degreasing emile, Get the concentrate in the 5L bottle. Water down as much as you need, then get either a hand pump bottle like a hairdresser uses (or an old window cleaner bottle etc), or even better, get a hold of those 10L Weed killer pump bottles that you pump up and have the spray wand.
I refuse to use Internet Explorer (it's like going back to your ex after she f*cked you over time and time again in your younger years, lol), I loathe Apple so no Safari/Opera and the equivalent of Image Zoom in Chrome is so not as well designed, shortcuts wise. And I thought CTRL + mouse wheel only resized font... Original plan was to just use the cans I have left (this stuff works brilliantly compared to some other crap degreaser cans I've used), soak her down, then blast everything away with a high pressure water gun (I'll make any excuse to pull it out hehe). If that fails, then the next step would be the tooth brush method and the hand pump stuff lol. MoulaZX
It does it all mate - pics included Indeed, Firefox, FTW (FTMFW, even). I'm running firefox 4.x, so maybe you have an older incompatible version.
Update: Engine Pull Down 75% Complete So I got sick of the rain today and moved the Engine under the Carport instead of waiting for the rain to pass. Got quite a bit done and some interesting results... First up. I had long believed my Manual Stock Turbos were on their way out, after pulling them off, seems they're still in pretty good nick considering they were pushed up to around 16-17 PSI. Very little shaft play. Second, I'm not exactly 100% on this diagnosis but I believe the engine was running pretty lean for a while. But I can't determine if this was before I bought her or during my ownership, as the previous owner had her completely stock as a rock and 4 boost jets that saw her pretty much boost unlimited till the engine cut off . Where as during my ownership, I installed an EBC and kept the boost between 10-16 PSI also having installed Nistune and tuned to suit. Third, seems my engine had the Det / Knock sensor bypass done. Will be looking to replace it and plug it back. Fourth, I 99% sure the Hydraulic Lifters from a CA18DE(T) are the same in our VG30DE(TT)s. They look perfectly identical and fit into the VG Heads perfectly... Fourth, what the hell is wrong with people that attempt to remove the passenger side Turbo while the Engine is in, it was hard enough with the Engine out! Pictures! Please excuse the mess, was in a rush towards the end and very tired. Will go back and clean up another time. Pistons. Piston 1 Piston 2 Piston 3 Piston 4 Piston 5 Piston 6 Head shots of Cylinder 6. It looks like one of the Exhaust Valves has actually been eaten away... Got Turbos? LOL. The two Stockies (Manual) in the middle are the ones I just pulled off, the ones on the end are Stockie Auto Turbos. The ones in bags are my new babies, HKS GT2530's Dumps I no longer have use for, probably will be selling these, relax Martin, you have first dibs. Teehee! Over thar is the new Block just waiting to be tinkered with MoulaZX
Oh, I thought you meant in Internet Explorer, I know the CTRL thing resizes everything in Firefox. I'm using FF7 atm MoulaZX
Update: Parts Ordered List of parts ordered, all from Coz. Finally got around the finalising my list. Only thing I'm worried about is the Clutch, they claim its good for 500hp+, hoping that proves true. Other few things to note are the Brake & Gearbox stuff. Figured these needed a bit of a refresh and might as well do them all at once, the goal is to have 500hp+ that is as close as possible to Factory form to drive and comfort level. Also, turns out he didn't have the 615CC injectors in stock and I didn't want to wait for more to arrive so just went with the 750CC instead. Stuff gets shipped out tomorrow then 3-5 days till it gets here. Expect many pictures during the unboxings! CZP 300ZX Wiseco, Eagle Engine Rebuild Kit A - Wiseco, Eagle Part#: 300-CZPRBLTKTA 87.5mm Clevite - Standard Ferrea 300ZX 1mm Over Intake/Exhaust Valves Part#: 300-F1848P-F1850P JECS 300ZX Injectors 750CC Injector Kit - 90-94TT Part#: 300-J16600-RR740E JWT 300ZX Heavy Duty Street Clutch Twin Turbo Part#: 300-LZ320-TC000 CZP 300ZX Upgraded Heavy Duty Clutch Fork Kit w/ Fork Boot Part#: 300-30531-CD000-KT-P Centric 300ZX Brake Master Cylinder 1990-02/1991 Part#: NIS300-130.42603 Centric Premium 300ZX Clutch Master Cylinder (90-91 Twin Turbo) Part#: NIS300-136.42206 Centric Premium 300ZX Clutch Slave Cylinder Part#: NIS300-138.42200 CZP 300ZX Stainless Steel Braided Clutch Line Part#: 300-30855-VPZ32 Nissan OEM 300ZX Motor Engine Mount x2 Part#: NIS300-11220 Nismo Pilot Bushing - Needle Bearing - 300ZX Part#: NIS300-32202 Nissan OEM 300ZX Front Caliper Seal Rebuild Kit, 90-92(Aluminum Calipers) Part#: NIS300-41120 Centric 300ZX Rear Caliper Seal Rebuild Kit, 2 Calipers Part#: NIS300-143.42024KT MoulaZX
Made a slight addition. Decided to go with these: Name: Alloy Toyz 300ZX 3in SS Expansion Downpipes - 5-Bolt Part#: 300-14449-AMS35 Unfortunately they're not in stock right now. Should have some more before the end of the week, so I told him to hold back shipping my stuff till they get in. MoulaZX
Update: Engine Pull Down Complete Mystery Solved. The whole reason this rebuild started was because of this: YouTube Vid Finally finished stripping the block down this afternoon. Looks like I was right, it was a Spun Crank Bearing on Piston 3: YouTube Vid Finished stripping all the Engine mounts and other things that I'll be re-using off the old Block. Few more pictures of the Spun Crank Bearing and the nifty way my Dad came up with to remove the Crank Gear. Crank Shot of Piston 3. Looks like the Crank has been scarred. Crank shot of Piston 6. MUCH smoother, no deep ingrain scratches like Piston 3. Spun Bearing Shots. The one on the bottom is off Piston 3. Top one from Piston 6. Also note the two holes in the Bearing, I'm not sure but it looks like the screwed one has had it's 'counter sunk' grove ground off Cam Gear Removal After screwing around for a few minutes, was plainly obvious typical Cam Gear removal methods weren't going to work. My Dad built this odd little device to function as a Puller of sorts. Made from random Bolts and the Alternator Bracket from some other car that was lying around. The idea is drill 2 holes into the Cam Gear using an 8mm bit. Then HeliCoil the holes. Then use the Puller in combination with an Oxy-Accetalene Torch with some WD-40 and just keep at it till it comes out. Took about 15-20 minutes. See Vid of the last few seconds as she came out: YouTube Vid (Go Fullscreen to see it slowly coming out) Now I'm just waiting on the parts to get here from Coz. Order is in. Just a waiting game now. MoulaZX
Myself and Ron also used that same method on the crank sprocket as well, except Ron tapped the threads into the crank sprocket itself. Stuffed around for 2 hours and it still wouldn't budge. Eventually cracked it with a chisel and it came off in no time.
Yours was Well and truly rusted on matt, 20 years and didn't want to move. What are you doing about the crank Emile, regrind or another one? Oh and it's a crank sprocket not a cam gear.
scrap your crank and oil pump. its a neat way to remove the crank sprocket, i sued to mess around like that but its cheaper and easier to split it and fit a new one
Cam Sprocket, my bad... Um. What am I gonna do with it? I don't know. I already have another Crank ready to go so I'm not particularly worried. I may see if its salvageable, if it is, get it repaired. It's looking less and less like I'll be selling my old engine. Just ended up re-using too many things. Won't be reusing Heads or Block, and those are still both in good condition. MoulaZX
That was plan B if this didn't work. I thought 'meh, I'm not in a rush, lets see if this works'. Going to see if Crank is repairable, if not, obviously scrapped, and new Oil Pump is on its way along with new Water Pump and a lot of other new goodies. MoulaZX
:rofl: Yea, things tend to come off easier when you crack 'em half with chisels, funny that aye? lol MoulaZX
Update: Minor Update Spent some time today attempting to refresh my Idle control. Cleaned up the outer bodies and attempted to clean the corrosion off the pins (with little success), would be happy for any suggestions. At the moment using some Electrical Contact Cleaner & a small flat head screw driver. Anyhow measured their resistances and got: FCID - 22-23 Ohms AAC - 10-11 Ohms Air Reg - 76-77 Ohms ECU Temp - Around 2k Ohms @ 'room temp' and decreased as I touched the tip. I could be a little more pedantic and drop it into a cup of boiling water and see how it goes (and I just might...). According to the Tech article, all those figures are pretty spot on so no need to replace of these yet. The other Temp Sensor, I'm not really sure how to test... Then the rest of the afternoon I spent working on the engine bay. Blasted it squeaky clean without a drop of degrease or solvent (love my high pressure water gun). Plan is to strip everything I don't want, AIV, EGR, HICAS & HICAS lines (I have an NA PS Pump) for sure, possibly PRVR as well and maybe even something with the Carbon Canister so its not rubbing on my damn SMIC! Once the stripping is done, cleaning again and prepping the surface for a respray (same colour). Also managed to rip my old Injectors out of the Fuel Rail...... none survived ... they're in there INCREDIBLY tight! This is where I left it. And for those curious, because I was, and couldn't for the life of me find anywhere on the internet of a TT & NA PS Pump side by side... The NA one is the smaller one. The TT is larger because of the extra orifices needed for the HICAS lines...... but since I'm removing HICAS altogether... much easier to go with an NA pump MoulaZX
