midori style camber arms installed

Discussion in 'Technical' started by MikeH, Oct 21, 2007.

  1. MikeH

    MikeH smeg

    I finally got around to putting these in today.

    I thought I'd check a couple of install guides before I got started, unfortunately the SPL instructions aren't detailed enough, the twinturbo.net one has some bad information. (http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnettech/aarms/aarms.html)

    SPL's says the arm should be installed in this direction: (this is left side of car looking forward)

    [​IMG]

    The other said the opposite so you'd get more clearance from the spring. I decided to go with SPL's as clearance isn't an issue and it just seems better for the arm to be closer to the suspension travel.

    The twinturbo.net guide says to screw both sides all the way in then adjust.. Sounds reasonable but since I need to pull things apart just for the hell of it, I found one side was longer than the other.

    Bonus! I was gonna pay extra for 'Z specific' ones with the extra offset to ensure the collar clears the mounting bracket but it turns out these (from PZP) are pretty much the same only they are threaded most the way at both ends.

    I just unscrewed the longer end so the amount of used thread is equal on both sides and it gave the clearance needed.

    Neither mentions greasing up the threads, it might mean you have to tighten your collars up more but it's better than being unable to adjust them later due to rust! I smeared a bit on the insides too in case water got in and rusted them from the inside out.

    Another thing on the twinturbo.net guide you should ignore is tightening of the arms to bracket and upper link to 65-80 ft/lbs. They may be a different design and it maybe ok but I've seen 2 different midori style arms start to bind before 30 ft/lbs so be sure to check the movement of the arm as you tighten it up or you'll stuff the bearings real quick.

    Oh and another tidbit I came across that may be useful assuming the thread is the same on all these is that 1 full turn = .42 degrees. I'll confirm that when I get my alignment.
     
  2. CHILI

    CHILI Indestructable Target

    These should be fitted with the longer threaded end on the Inner Guard Bracket side.
    This allows you to wind it in or out until it is the exact same length as the stock arm, prior to fitting(it also helps move the lock collar away from the bracket).:zlove:
     
  3. michandy

    michandy Active Member

    Grease ?

    a better thing to use instead of grease is copper coat or anti sieze. Grease will break down after a while but anti seize will hang around heaps longer. Its actually designed for this purpose. Oh and be careful how you use it a little bit goes a long way, it gets everywhere!
     
  4. mijake

    mijake Member

    so which way is the correct way?

    I just installed the midori style arms but im so confused about which way is the correct way. I followed the way that was suggested on the tt.net guide but it looks like the spl website way is the opposite. ??

    Chili, you said the longer thread needs to be on the inner guard bracket, im not to sure what you mean because on the inner guard bracket is both the shorter thread and the longer thread? :confused: OR am i just really confusing myself now?

    If someone has the correct setup on their car could they please post a picture up?

    Also, I have noticed a knocking noise coming from the new arms now. It is not noise or vibration as such but actual knocking.

    Mike
     
  5. CHILI

    CHILI Indestructable Target



    Mike, I'm referring to the Upper Control Arm end with the longer thread(see MikeH post) one half has a longer threaded section than the other half does.
    When both halves are screwed all the way into the centre section, the end with the longer threaded shaft should then be wound out until the new U/C Arm is the exact length of the OEM U/C Arm. This end should be fitted to the bracket bolted to the inner mudguard(and the other end to the suspension upright).:zlove:
     
  6. MikeH

    MikeH smeg

    true, I have anti sieze as well.. I had it in mind that I'd just grease up the exposed thread and ended up using it all over.

    never mind, it'll still last a while.
     
  7. 300zxt

    300zxt Well-Known Member

    Melon flavoured? Sweet! :p
     
  8. MikeH

    MikeH smeg

    [​IMG]

    notice the position of the collars on these.. the side with the collar further from the end should be mounted towards the car to ensure the collar isn't crushed if your suspension bottoms out.

    If you have the other sort where the collars are similar distance from the ends, you may find that one end still has more length and thread than the other, it allows you to create the same offset for clearance.

    If you followed the twinturbo.net guide, I have a feeling the noise you're hearing could be your camber arm bearings.
     
  9. Egg

    Egg ....

    The most important thing is to fit the longer shaft towards the bracket on the car to avoid a clash under suspension travel.
    The SPL website shows them fitted differently to how I usually fit them, I fit them with the central shaft away from the spring like this.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  10. Jinxed

    Jinxed Moderator

    mine made a clicking/knocking sort of noise for a few weeks after installation

    and i ended up complaining to egg about it cause i was sure id crushed the bearings in them,as it was it turned out that some of the chrome on the threads needed to chip off/settle in or whatever youd like to call it and over time they silenced themselves,and dont make any noise at all know after 6 months plus of use...
     
  11. mijake

    mijake Member

    thanks everyone!

    That clears everything up for me. I shall go check my arms to see if they are installed the right way around.

    Thanks
    Mike
     

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