Install Air/Fuel Mixture and Oil Pressure Gauge

Discussion in 'Technical' started by lockmi, Jul 12, 2017.

  1. lockmi

    lockmi Member

    Hi Everybody

    I'd love some help

    I have a '94 twin turbo and I want to install three gauges in the lower DIN slot on my console. I bought the gauges from Speedhut (Revolution series - very simple) already.

    Can I please get some guidance on installation?

    What I think I know so far:
    Air/Fuel Mixture
    The gauge I bought is a narrow band. I need to buy an O2 Sensor and bung and weld the bung into install it into one of the test pipes

    Q1: Is the above right? Am I missing anything?
    Q2: Can anyone recommend an appropriate sensor and bung? Are they separate or come together?


    Oil Pressure
    I have a sensor, so either buy a sandwich adapter and install between the oil filter and the oil filter tree; or get some BPST fittings and T off the stock OPSU location.

    Q1: Is the above right? Which is better?
    Q2: Where can i buy a sandwich adapter and which one should I buy?
    Q3: Which BPST fittings should I buy and where can I buy them?


    Boost
    Gauge is a combined vacuum/boost. I believe that I just T off the existing line to the sensor that leads into the stock gauge in the dash cluster.

    Q1: Is the above right?
    Q2: What do I need to buy?


    Very many thanks in advance for any help


    PS. I'm an accountant and not that technical, so please be simple - single syllable tech words much preferred!
     
  2. J3bba

    J3bba He Who Struggles

    I've got a sandwich plate in mine for my oil temp and I'd recommend it for simplicity alone. If you get a half decent adaptor then the sensor should just screw straight in. Saves you fiddling around trying to find thread adaptors and such.

    You cn get them just about anywhere. Just Jap have a good one (http://justjap.com/freepower-oil-temperature-sensor-adapter-universal-3-4unf-16-m20-p1-5.html)

    This thread may also help you out - http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1466031

    I asked pretty much the same questions :p

    Boost gauge is as simple as you've just said. If your kit didn't already come with a T piece then just head to your local auto store and pick one up. From memory it's a 4mm vacuum hose so you'll need a 4mm T piece (or imperial equivalent). You'll need some vacuum hose as well to go from the T to the sender unit.


    If your kits are half good they should come with some helpful diagrams and instructions. Otherwise there's bound to be someone here who has a clue.
     
  3. Shane001

    Shane001 Well-Known Member

    First up, throw that straight in the bin. Completely useless for anything other than maintaining closed loop when idling and cruising.

    You need to buy a wideband.
     
  4. Shane001

    Shane001 Well-Known Member

    Did the sensor come with the gauge? If not how do you know it's calibrated correctly for the gauge?

    Easiest option for this is to replace the factory sensor on the passenger side of the engine, or run a T if you want to retain the factory sensor also.
     
  5. WazTTed

    WazTTed Grease Monkey

    Narrow band is great for disco effects at night time tho !!
     
  6. Shane001

    Shane001 Well-Known Member

    lol, possibly :p
     
  7. Fists

    Fists Well-Known Member

    Agree with Shane on both, narrow band is very useless, if you want something to watch the O2 values but not a wideband get an ECUTalk unit, displays the raw values for the O2 sensors plus a bunch of other data very useful for trouble shooting a nissan. (assuming you're still using a nissan ECU). If you get ECUTalk it will also do water temp for you, if you don't then a proper water temp gauge would be a great choice for a replacement third gauge.

    The standard position is the best for oil pressure as it's after all of the bypass valves and filter etc. so most likely to tell you what's getting to the bearings (or not getting to them), the new sensor should fit in the same port as the oem one with a bit of thread tape on it. Leave the oem sensor on the garage floor, while the 'theory' doesn't support this approach my testing suggests this is just as accurate as having it installed.

    Tee-ing the OEM boost sensor line should be fine but I would probably just hook up the new gauge and leave the oem one unhooked, or connect the oem sensor to some other unused port on the intake piping to see what's happening there.
     
  8. Shane001

    Shane001 Well-Known Member

    :rofl:
     
  9. lockmi

    lockmi Member

    Hey J3bba - thanks very much, mate! Tow down, three to go!


    Cheers


    MDL
     
  10. lockmi

    lockmi Member

    Yeah, but....sigh....kinda am where I am for the mo
     
  11. lockmi

    lockmi Member

    Yup - sensor came with the gauge :thumbup:
     
  12. lockmi

    lockmi Member

    Sorry - I think I mixed it up - are you speaking about the Oil or Air/Fuel gauge here?
     
  13. rob260

    rob260 Administrator Staff Member

    No need. Locate pin 55 on the ECU harness and splice into the white wire.


    If it is a cheap two wire sender you will need to earth the sender. If this is the case I'd suggest removing the 1/8"BSP plug on your oil filter tree and screwing the sender in there with some thread sealant (eg loctite 567).


    The stock cluster uses an electrical signal from a sensor located near the drivers side shock tower. Locate the vacuum line running to this sensor, and T into that. You will then need to run a vacuum line from the T piece into the cabin and connect to your new gauge.
     
    Last edited: Jul 13, 2017

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