Over the last few weeks I've had a problem where, when cruising, the Zed will lose power and cough and splutter for a few seconds. After this happens, idle increases to 2000 rpm. My normal idle is around 1200rpm, and has been since I've had the car, I will be checking for leaks this weekend. Lately, the Zed will just start idling high for no reason... I'll just be sitting at a set of lights and it happens. Any ideas why this would happen??? Is there something the ECU would pick up and increase idle revs as a result??
dunno dood but mine has done that before and im not sure what fixed itdid you play with the idle screw? me being the dumbass that i am played with mine and it hasnt been right since
I reckon you ought to look at.... the spray pattern of your injectors vs. the port size on the lower plenum where they stick out. There has been some conclusive evidence on TTnet that it's not enough to simply machine out the lip on the injector seats and insert 94+ newer style injectors as you have done. The reason being that they sit much higher, and the newer lower plenums have a different shaped hole at the bottom where the injector sits above the cylinder. The result is with the newer style injectors you get fuel hitting the sides of this hole in the lower plenum and you lose atomization. The result could be something like the missing problems you are seeing. This could also be why you are seeing problems using your 'supposed' 550 cc injectors at their true flow duration.Just thought it was worth mentioning.
i think it could be cold start problem the idle valve can raise or drop idle via ecu controlling duty cyle of valve.The only logical senario that i can see that would make the ecu want a higher idle is the cold start from water temp sensor, what is your sensor telling you when these odd occasions occur?I would also check the tps. Im not sure how much the input the tps has in the stock ecu but on my computer, if the tps senses a quick rise in acceleration it will dump x% more fuel then normal to eliminate any chance of ping. If you are cruising and your tps is a little whack and presuming the stock ecu does the same then the overfueling can make you engine splutter a bit i guess.
if you want we can connect conzult up and go for drive while logging all the sensors to see if something strange is happening with those?
yeah, that might give me some indication I just can't think of anything that would do it, apart from the aforementioned cold start sensor, but you'd think if it was playing up it would happen more often.
try these as well >> It could be the air regulator. The symptoms of the air regulator going bad is either low unstable idle during warm up or high idle. Check the resistance between the pins in the connector. It should be ~75 Ohm. If not good then replace the whole regulator. Another problem could be that the regulator is clogged, causing the shutter to stick. The ECU coolant temp sensor is a very common cause of high idle, hesitation and safety boost mode. You can also check the resistance of the sensor by measuring it across its terminals. The resistance should be: 2.1-2.9 kOhm at 20C 0.68-1.0 kOhm at 50C 0.30-0.33 kOhm at 80CCould also be sticky PCV valves.Check that MAS reads ~0.8V with ignition on and ~1.5V at idle, unless you've got a vacuum leak somewhere.
mine would jump around at idle at lights etc exactly how you described it and it was my O2 sensors, changed them and the problem went away, now i just have an idle problem cause my base idle is mucked up.
Yes it can.......>> With Consult you can monitor the output from the sensor which, when the car is warmed up, should be fairly flat. Any spikes or dips of more then a degree or two would indicate a fault.
I ran Conzult-free today after the problem occurred again and it showed no voltage at all from the TPS and also registered an error code in the TPS circuit. The thing is, why would it work sometimes and then fail while driving, only to return to normal after sitting for an hour or two? I wiggled all of the plugs with no success. When it is working, the voltages seem to be fine.
Have you cleaned all plugs? Sounds like a connector 'making' when cold and 'breaking' when warm.Pull all connectors off, clean with electrical cleaner [or INOX, not WD40] & maybe a toothbrush or air-gun. Check for any damaged or broken wires too.Q: Can a TPS fail like the series 1 PTU?Cheers, Rob:-Z
