how does one go "drift spec"?

Discussion in 'Non Technical' started by Hidds, Apr 13, 2011.

  1. Hidds

    Hidds THAT annoying guy....

    ive been in my mates falcadoor drifting... and now i have the drift bug

    im just wondering, how would i go about keeping my Z streetable and comfortable, yet still have the right setup for drift?

    is it a PITA to do or easy?

    obviously i would have 2 sets of rear rims (one for drift 1 for street)

    now i leave it to you drifters
  2. Madcow

    Madcow Active Member

    i dont think street suspention would be good on track. and i dont think drift suspention would be good on street.

    all depends on how serious you want to get into it really.
  3. UnFairladyZ

    UnFairladyZ New Member

    stiff susspension..( most use coilies but you dont need to ) camber on the front wheels, strut braces to stop body flex and away you go :) if you got serious then obviously clutch and drivetrain maybe a 2way diff or something. good luck
  4. Hidds

    Hidds THAT annoying guy....

    it would be more a weekend warrior thing at the moment... i wouldent mind making it a full on drift spec beast, cable ties and all! but that will be down the track

    and yes if i were to go full on drift i will change trannys to manual (shut up mikey,anti,SRB, ECT)
  5. MagicMike

    MagicMike Moderator Staff Member

    1 wheel circlework isn't drifting :p bloody bogans
  6. Hidds

    Hidds THAT annoying guy....

    lol, i do enjoy being bogan though :D

    im slowly learning how to drift correctly, im gonna go to a drift school when i get some dosh... that will learn me proper
  7. Anti

    Anti 14.7 x 14.7 = 44.1

    make sure your diff is in good nick most importantly. weld it if you want

    coilovers, hard settings. camber arms all around. stretch your tyres for sidewall rigidity. upgrade your radiator and get an aftermarket temp. guage.

    get a real gearbox. a man's one :) and strip out your interior for a real drift car.

    that's just for starters. so yeah, a lot of work. expect to be dropping your exhaust and new gearbox for new 6-puck clutches. blowing shit up will happen.

  8. ZILVER-Z32

    ZILVER-Z32 New Member

    A welded diff on a street driven Z32 is not fun at low speed, noisey, and can be somewhat dangerous.
    Tightened the shims it if you must, but I'd recommend experimenting on a spare diff first.
  9. Hidds

    Hidds THAT annoying guy....

    yeah mines gonna be street driven as its my daily, so ill probably start of with some dished rims (stretch), get some new coilovers (might keep it a bit soft cause i hate bumps), need some camber arms (rear toe is out want that 0 again), aftermarket temp guage is a must (i want the digital one inplace of the stock)

    but this will be a slow process over time, all while looking mint :D i just love a tough drift stance
  10. Mikey5555

    Mikey5555 Grid Runner

    1. Buy a dodgey 180sx
    2. Weld the diff
    3. Leave the 300 alone
    4. Join

  11. Vizard

    Vizard Active Member

    all you need is a welded diff and a tight handbrake cable, go go go!
  12. Hidds

    Hidds THAT annoying guy....

    that was the original plan, but all the dodgey 180's round here are way too expencive for a bunky

    i saw one the other day with most of the interior stripped... he wanted $5k for it... i hate dealers round here
  13. Anti

    Anti 14.7 x 14.7 = 44.1

    man up... you want a daily slider, you need to deal with bumps man. and if you want it to look mint you'll need to PAINT YOUR FRONT BAR... even if it's held on with zip ties.

    forgot about strut braces.

    what about the manbox swap? that is a 100% must

    it'd be cheaper to sell and buy a TT manual tbh
  14. UnFairladyZ

    UnFairladyZ New Member

    Nah.. "N" Bomb the absolute F**K out of it till it stops working :) then buy a 5sp :cool:
  15. Cam

    Cam ****

    D bangin' FTW! hahaha!

    I'm building a drift car and it's almost complete now.


    Good suspension, alignment, more steering lock, and diff are the main thing.
    Coilovers: Firm front, med rear.
    Steering rack spacers will give you more lock.
    As much negative camber with 3 or 4mm toe out and as much castor as you can get for front alignment and 0.5 positive to 0.0 camber and about 3 or 4mm toe in at the rear.
    Proper LSD... or electric bolt in lockers like mine. :p

    Then you can get fancy with adjustable control arms, raise the subframe for better roll centre, hydraulic handbrake, 2 to 1 steering, and more horsepower.
  16. ichizora

    ichizora Loud

    NA rear subframe, hard coilies, tie rod spacers for more lock, Nismo/Kaaz/Cusco 1.5way, monster clutch and heavy/high inertia flywheel for starters...
    I think handbrake drifting is pretty gay, but you'll need a proper hydraulic handbrake setup to do it right
  17. Anti

    Anti 14.7 x 14.7 = 44.1

    that's a big one right there. you'd be blown away how much difference it makes, even in everyday driving when you're trying to do a 3-point/jew turn...
  18. Cam

    Cam ****

    The extra lock is good to have when you need it to prevent spins. Spinning out sucks arse!
    Good toe out adjustment can help this.
  19. Anti

    Anti 14.7 x 14.7 = 44.1

    It seems like a great $10 mod on any Z32 getting new tie rods, but I've heard offhand it can be unsafe? Can anyone elaborate on this for me?
  20. Cam

    Cam ****

    Depends on the spacer I suppose, definitely not street legal.
    You can also just use some washers that will fit into the rack. you can get a fair bit of angle out of such little adjustment at the rack. I've heard that being done but I haven't pulled mine out yet too see how much thread is available.

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