Have i done it right?

Discussion in 'Technical' started by Wilo300zx, Jun 8, 2008.

  1. Wilo300zx

    Wilo300zx 1990 JSpec N.A Fairlady M

    I have been working on my plenum doing the coolant bypass.
    I have also removed my EGR.
    Cleaned my Throttle Bodies and replaced my spark plugs with iridium ones.

    I have some old hard pipes that come off the block and the plenum (left over from the bypass and the egr removal) and im not sure if i have to re-route the the pipes to somewhere else or if i block them off.

    here are some pics, the red illustrates the pipes left. If someone could be so kind as to enlighten me on which ones need blocking and which ones im still going to be using.
    Thanks heaps
    Adam

    EGR REMOVAL
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    COOLANT BYPASS
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  2. rom-vg30dett

    rom-vg30dett Always Broke

    I'm not really sure how to properly answer this...You need to keep the IACV hoses, the clutch booster nipple hose (all the ones in your 4th pic), you need to block the egr openings in the plenum and keep all the pcv stuff. I've got a TT so not so sure on the rest.
     
  3. Wilo300zx

    Wilo300zx 1990 JSpec N.A Fairlady M

    See that is it. I don't know which ones they are now. I done the EGR removal a few weeks back and my memory is a little shady.

    Im hoping someone can circle some pics to illustrate which ones i still need.
     
  4. 90TTZ

    90TTZ Back From The Dead

    Never seen an N/A engine out but I assume that none of the water lines you removed will need to be placed back in service. When this procedure is done on a TT, attention needs to be paid in regards to the turbo coolant lines and nothing else so you should be right. The hard lines coming off the heater hose hard pipes can be blocked off.

    In the first picture, the extreme left hose can be removed and blocked off. The metal stub on the left hand cam cover is for a rubber hose that connects to the left side PCV valve. The center rubber hose can be removed and blocked off same with the other hard pipes on the right. The hard pipe on the extreme right side of that picture goes to the right side PCV valve.

    In the second picture that hose at the front previously went to the right side throttle body so can be removed.

    Third picture, the small metal pipe on the bottom went to the vacuum supply of the EGR valve.

    The picture of the top of the plenum will all need to be retained. The circle on the rear left is for the AAC valve and the hose coming off the cold start solenoid goes to the middle of the balance tube, the one on the right is for the brake booster. Hard to see but the small stub on the extreme left of that picture may be a vacuum supply line for the Fuel Pressure Regulator.

    Under pic of the plenum will need the two large holes that previously was fed by the EGR system filled. Need a blanking plate made up or cut off flanges of old supply pipes and cut off the pipes and weld the holes, that's what I did with mine ;) Everything else can be left as is or cut off for asthetics.
     
  5. DonoRyan

    DonoRyan Rick James

    You can do the bypass like this, skipping one hose.

    Don't forget the little one I've pointed out. A real pain once the engine is in.

    On the other side you also have another loop.

    Block the EGR holes under the plenum and replace your PCV valves. You can trim everything up to make it look nicer.

    EGR pipes are blocked at the front intake pipes. You can remove the solinoid if you like (make it look nicer) but hang on to it in case you ever want to put the EGR back in.

    Try a search on TT.net, there are pictures and posts detailing the NA bypass (what I used when I did the job).

    Don

    PS, its been a while since I've done the job so please double check on TT.nET

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    Last edited: Jun 9, 2008

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