My car has been only getting 300km to a tank recently and so i decided to check the O2 sensors using my yet to be installed carpc These are pics of the O2 sensor readouts in a few different programs. Also when i tried to use Conzult i got this error on screen: Does anyone know why i got the error on conzult but on the free demo version it works? The 02 Sensors did not flucuate at all, they remained constant at their voltages, does this mean theyre screwed?
on my first cruise i remember when revving the car the readouts changed for both, one better than the other, thus the other one was screwed.....so i dont think they are supposed to stay constant....was a while ago so dont hold me to it
I can't see a thing on those pics But, after the car has warmed up, they should fluctuate. I was watching both of them on the way home from work when the car was running poorly 2 days before the trip to Cowra. The left O2 got stuck on 100% below 3000rpm, but fluctuating above that. Traced it down to a faulty coil pack on no 6 eventually, causing it not to fire and therefore run rich. I imagine they would get stuck at 0 or 100 if you are running lean or rich.
They won't fluctuate at idle. At 2000rpm the o2's should be sweeping from side to side about once a second. Make sure the car is warmed up and at operating temp when you do the tests. Also your TPS voltage is abit high, I think it should be adjusted to between 0.44-0.46V
Lol i cant actually make the pics bigger cause it was a screen shot and thats the resolution my monitor is running at. I let the car warm up and they didnt fluctuate at all. Once warm it just got stuck on .71 Volts. At one point when it wasnt warm the car seemed to run a little rough and then they fluctuate and ran from lean-rich but other than that it didnt do anything. Mind you this was at idle. Should it fluctuate even when at idle?
so in otherwords my tests are useless and i need to plug it in again and then let it warm up and rev it a little and see what happens?
That's better, they were 320x200 before You are only displaying one of the O2's. You need to go into setup to activate the other. Also if you get communications error, you may have to restart conzult, or reboot. I found with the car PC, that if you hibernate rather than shutting down when you turn the car off, the USB ports often don't come back and you have to reboot anyways. But if one gets stuck on a fixed value, you may have a short in the wiring or faulty sensor. They will probably not fluctuate at idle - rev above 3000 rpm and watch
It's worth noting, that not only does the car need to be at operating temp, so does the exhaust. The O2s only work when they are HOT--HOT--HOT.
wow really? coz i havent been getting that at all i would be around 300. should i check my O2 sensor as well?
O2 i dont have that program. do you know any one who i can go to to have a look at it? thanks. in melb
Do u have a TT ? if so check its NOT in saftey boost. saftey boost will make u run hella rich.... Regards, Trev
300 on an na defiantly not good...should be getting better econ than the tt... from tech section Z32 Fuel Economy There is always a lot of conjecture about the fuel economy of these cars. Some people seem to get 200 km per tank around the city, others get 550km, and most get somewhere in between. There are of course many factors that will affect your fuel economy. Some but not all are listed here:- * A heavy right foot (Driving Style) * Faulty, disconnected or lazy O2 Sensors. If the ECU can't read values from the O2 sensors, then the closed loop section of the program (normal easy light throttle driving - includes highway cruising) will be too rich and you will use extra fuel at these times. * Vacuum and boost leaks * Coolant temperature sensor * Detonation sensor * General engine condition - Cylinder Compression, spark plugs, injectors, and all the electrical connectors under the bonnet, and other basic mechanical stuff * Exhaust blockage (Catalytic converter breakdown) * Fuel Leaks (check lines and clamps) * Dirty Air filter There will be other reasons for bad fuel economy too, but these are the common ones Just to give you a ball park figure on how your Z's fuel economy compares to how Nissan intended when they came out of the factory, here are the Factory figures for a TT. NA Z's may do slightly better around town, as turbo cars love to drink the fuel on acceleration, but the NA may not do as well on the highway, with the different differential drive ratio (Higher engine revs required for the same road speed as compared to a TT) MPG = City Cycle @ 18 MPG - Highway Cycle @ 24 MPG 18MPG ~ 15.5 Litres/100km 24 MPG ~ 11.6Litres per 100km With a good tune you can certainly achieve better, but I feel this is the very best you would expect with a factory ECU considering a lot of cars could be a little tired. Given the figures above, and a capacity of 71 litres of fuel in the tank, this would give an approximate range of 458km in the city, and 612 km highway cycle. With furtherance to after market ECUs, I have a Unichip. With the unichip and a good tune (which I specified to the tuner that I wanted absolute economy in the closed loop area), I can achieve 8 litres/100km at 90kmph, and about 9 litres /100km at 100kmph, this would give me a maximum range of 887 km from a full tank of 71 litres at 90 kmph or 788 km from a full tank at 100kmph. I believe in 2.5 years of ownership of the car, the unichip has paid for itself in fuel savings, and maybe I've helped the environment too! Article submitted by PEXZED
shittttt so who do i go to that can have a look for me and tell me whats going on? how much are new O2 sensors?
