Bender Build

Discussion in 'Member's Garage' started by Anti, Sep 17, 2011.

  1. Dude...Rather ingenious use of the ladder, impressive. Insulators have been put to good use :) I enjoy the rear strut brace design. I'm lazy, so pre-fab parts for me. Will be stocking up on a few ladders come roadside pick up.
     
  2. Anti

    Anti 14.7 x 14.7 = 44.1

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    Yes the isolators are good, thank you :D I was surprised it took me so long to find some.
     
  3. Anti

    Anti 14.7 x 14.7 = 44.1

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    Alright the next project still isn't quite finished but I have accumulated a few new parts recently so I thought I'd chuck those up. Been ages since I had a real update for this thread.

    First up was some parts from Ultra Racing. Since I'm working on the diffuser at the moment and I want a chance of it actually working one day it's mounted up to align with the underbody, ready to later team up with an undertray. To get this right I had to order in the the lowest hanging component on the chassis; a four point subframe brace.

    This is an Ultra Racing original and was pretty cheap. It was however baaaaaad for ground clearance... let me paint a picture for you;

    - where it bolts on at the front it replaces an OEM trans tunnel brace, this is 5mm thick
    - the UR brace at that point is 25mm thick
    - my OEM brace is bashed to shit from scraping

    ...yeeeeeeeaeeeeeeeeah.

    Since so much stuff was going to be located off of the height of this bracket alone I stared at it for a while and decided to chop it up and raise it. It looked like the whole thing hung low in order to clear one small point on the chassis. Que the torch and mallet.

    [​IMG]

    With some cutting, shutting and combining with the OEM subframe brackets I got the brace 15mm higher up than it was originally. Result!

    [​IMG]

    Sorry for the crappy pic. Brace is now well up against the body and doesn't look like it's tacked on.

    I also got one of their C-pillar bars out of curiosity to see if it would work as a harness bar.

    [​IMG]

    While this wouldn't have been the best way to mount a harness it turns out to not really matter anyway because apparently my seats are for tiny Japanese people.

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    That's a pic of my 6'2" buddy sitting in my seat with makeshift strap in place. As you can see the eyelet on the seat is way below his shoulder, meaning if he was to have a stack his spinal column would be squished to smithereens. I'm only 5'11" and I have the same problem. So the bar had to get sold, no harnesses for me. Diddums.

    I also imported an ARC front sway bar that was sitting on eBay for ages and ages. The Whiteline bar I put in not too long ago while effective is very very god damn heavy. ARC and Impul are the only hollow sway bar manufacturers for the Z32 and they're very very hard to find now. Just the front one was available but I'm happy with that as that's where all the weight saving is.

    Stock: 4.5 kg
    Whiteline: 9 kg (nearly 20 pounds god dammit)
    Auto Refine Company: 3.9 kg

    Now that's a real modification.

    [​IMG]

    Got my rear rotors too, Z34 350mm two piece from Racing Brake. All Z34 two piece rotors are expensive as shit so I was stoked to get these cheap second hand still not used. They were sent over to me by a buddy in LA through his work freight to save on shipping too (thank you Edgar!). This is great because now I have everything I need to get onto the brake project.

    [​IMG]

    They look pretty hilarious with my Tommy K calipers mocked up behind the Modena faces.

    [​IMG]

    And lastly some more opportunistic odds and ends. Sniping bargains seems to be all I can justify buying these days.

    Landed a Turbosmart FPR 800 and a Nissan Cima intake system including lower plenum, upper plenum and fuel rails. The Cima ran a factory single turbo Z32 motor with slightly different heads and totally different upper and lower plenums. The lower plenum is of interest as the runners come up vertical rather than in a crossflow formation, making it much easier to fit a single intake plenum (obviously, as the Cima had one [it's an abomination though]).

    [​IMG]

    As it stands I'm unsure about using it; while it bolts up to the DETT heads the ports are quite a bit off lining up. That's partially because the ports on the Cima runners are larger though, which I might be able to carry through to the valve. Can't make up my mind 'til I do some more digging. The Cima also runs a top feed, side return injector/rail system which is pretty hilarious.

    More to come when I hopefully actually finish the diffuser project.

    -A
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2016
  4. dropthebass

    dropthebass New Member

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    Some cool bits going into this car!
     
  5. Anti

    Anti 14.7 x 14.7 = 44.1

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    Thanks dude glad you like 'em. Got one more cool part getting here in a day or two too so I'll chuck that up.
     
  6. Anti

    Anti 14.7 x 14.7 = 44.1

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    With the fitting of my seats I gave my car a proper clean out of the interior which after more than a year with the roof off while I did (bay) bodywork was sincerely needed. After clearing all the shit out of it and vacuuming it hard enough to suck a golf ball through a garden hose it's looking tops especially with the painted rear brace. Before long trashed interior withdrawl symptoms kicked in and that happened;

    [​IMG]

    The next project was more or less a total rear end overhaul. This means fitting the rear bar properly (some modification required), extensively modifying the diffuser (read: cutting the shit out of it), making a new boot floor, making a path for the new exhaust system and relocating the fuel tank. Regarding the latter, here's why:

    [​IMG]

    Fuel tank in red, diffuser grey, bumper blue and red the underbody line of the car. The diffuser, a "generic" item from Ab-Flug, doesn't fit the 2+2 Z32 very well. The trailing end of the fuel tank fouls on it, and forces the leading edge of the diffuser to jut down towards the road. With a bit of measuring it seemed like with the tyre well out of the equation there would be plenty of room for activities. The factory space saver spare wheel won't clear my brakes anyway.

    With the boot floor cut out rail to rail I jacked the fuel tank up to where I wanted to put it.

    [​IMG]

    It looked like the tank was made to be moved - the contours of it align perfectly with factory reliefs in the frame rails further forward in the chassis. I did in the end have to give it a bit of a love tap here and there as a few portions of it were sticking up above the boot floor.

    Bolting it up in its new location was actually really easy too. Original straps with original brackets, trailing ends rotated forward and drilled out in an unused OEM hole already in the bracket. The straps then bolted up to the factory mounts with factory bolts.

    [​IMG]

    I blasted the hell out of the tank with a high pressure hose, repainted it with new sound deadening, epoxy'd on the OEM isolation rubbers on in new their new locations and stuck on some rubber pads to the high points.

    [​IMG]

    The old boot floor can be used as a gauge for how far forward the tank has been moved. Bit better weight distribution is an unintended plus I guess.

    [​IMG]

    If you look closely in the above pic you can see that I cleared an area of sound deadening around the new hole of dead flat sheet metal. That's so the new aluminium floor panel can bolt down flat against the frame rails with a weatherstrip seal. I put in a daisy chain of nutserts to secure it.

    With the tank out of the way I could move on to the party piece - the Ab-Flug carbon fibre diffuser. Now just because I could actually align the leading edge of the diffuser with the under body doesn't mean I was done with it. As you can see here, the generic unit doesn't fill the whole underside of the bumper area. Panel gaps aren't cool on properly sorted street cars and I'm not building a race car. Aside from the sides it also protrudes past the bumper when bolted up in the same manner the previous owner did.

    [​IMG]

    I don't care how JDM tyte your car is it's got ****ing gaps in it. Not slick. Que the chop suey.

    With a solid game plan in place I measured up some cut lines using my super magnets to flex a ruler topside the panel.

    [​IMG]

    This was really one of those grit your teeth and don't be a skeptic moments...

    [​IMG]

    I picked up a slip roller and got to work forming some sheet metal to widen this thing.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    With two 15 cm aluminium sections to go in I needed a set of brackets to hold the thing together. I deliberately chose to keep the diffuser a five piece rather than glassing together the whole thing, but that won't come into play 'til later.

    [​IMG]

    I'm getting better at knocking up bracketry and this was a real quick deal all drilled and shaped together, then nutserted.

    [​IMG]

    I wanted to avoid hacking off the lip on the trailing end of the diffuser and simply tuck it into the bumper but unfortunately it just wasn't going to work.

    [​IMG]

    With the width where I needed it to be I set about properly mounting the diffuser. First to the bar, this time with no edges sticking out.

    [​IMG]

    As far as fixing the diffuser to the car, the process was layered. While this is no CFD analysed race car, for me to go to all this effort I want the diffuser to have at least a chance of functioning. First step was lining up the leading edge to the lowest point of the underbody, which meant ordering in the long on-the-buy-list Ultra Racing four point rear underbody brace from the last update.

    With the height set I made the brackets up from 3/4" box section. This was a pain in the ass as there needed to be ample room to plumb the twin exhaust through there as well as clear the fuel tank. I weighed up a few options including on the the fuel tank straps as well as simply one long wide bracket (that would've been great). Running down from the frame rails via the subframe was the only no-compromise option, and the car had just enough space to do it. The subframe is getting solid mounted down the track so there'll be no flex issues.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

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    Both far edges got mirrored brackets to the chassis too.

    [​IMG]

    Feels solid as all hell. The brackets are definitely strong enough to hold me up, the diffuser maybe not though. Lining up these things dead even was a battle.

    [​IMG]

    I cut out a new boot floor out of sheet. Much better access to the fuel pump in the long term which is sweet.

    [​IMG]

    Next up was working out the fin situation. The diffuser came with a pair, which was nowhere near enough with the new width. I was quoted for new fins and the price was just silly, and I wanted to change up the design a bit anyway. After a great amount of digging for a supplier I picked up some preformed 10mm fibreglass plate and went to town.

    [​IMG]

    The curves were very difficult to match and each one is slightly different. I went through a few ideas how to mount these, but after cutting them and feeling how light they were I went with the method that meant the least further diffuser decapitation (because you know, it's basically as new right).

    [​IMG]

    Four M4 rivnuts epoxy'd in to each fin hold the four on.

    [​IMG]

    Fit up. Starting to get an idea of how the setup will look.

    [​IMG]

    It was about now that I realised I had big problem that I seriously didn't see coming. The diffuser actually hangs lower than the rear bar.

    [​IMG]

    Trying to make an aero part that could actually work has its draw backs. After some good pondering of this honey doodle I worked out a plan for the outer fins to fix the situation. They cap either end of the diffuser and extend up to inside the chassis.

    [​IMG]

    This unfortunately meant seriously modifying the double D mounting brackets I had already completed, which I can assure you I was stoked to have to do.

    [​IMG]

    Now I have double Bs. The outer fins bolt up flat to one of the faces of the brackets as so;

    [​IMG]

    With the fins all shaped up all the fabrication was at long last god damn over. Cue the paint prep, priming and me calling it a day.

    I glassed over all the excess holes and filled up all the chips, scrapes and chunks from the previous owner. And a nearly full length cut I made in the centre section before realising I was an inch out from where I needed to be. Dickhead.

    [​IMG]

    The primer work didn't come out hollywood perfect but I don't really give a shit. Good enough before a pro can finish it.

    [​IMG]

    I was actually glad to cover up the carbon. I hate carbon for carbon's sake when it's just cosmetic. Carbon is cool when it's there because it's strong and light; not just slathered on as a final coating for looks. Unfortunately that's what the diffuser is; fibreglass underneath. The only thing that stopped me ripping off the whole carbon outer layer was the amount of smoothing out I'd have to do afterwards. Besides, the aluminium sections were never going to tie in properly otherwise.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I borrowed a router from a buddy of mine and rounded off all the edges. The bolts on the outside fins were also countersunk.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    A small pair of riveted on brackets hold up the trailing ends of the outer fins.

    [​IMG]

    And there you have it, done and dusted.

    [​IMG]

    If I'm honest, this project was brutally time consuming and difficult. It is a perfect example of something just taking way too long and by the time I threw the last bolt in I wasn't satisfied so much as I was ready to set the thing on fire. The amount of cutting, shaping, measuring, doing over and even just time spent simply staring at different portions of the vehicle trying to conceive solutions was vexing to the nth degree. A wise man once told me to do one thing until it's finished and I'm glad I did because there were a number of times with this project when I thought I could see the light at the end of the tunnel, only to keep on and realise there was weeks and weeks of work left.

    [​IMG]

    But the end result is something pretty cool. Maybe when a couple of months have passed and I've forgotten the amount of work in it I'll dig it more. Or when I have the car further forward in the garage allowing me to properly take it in, haha. Then I think I'll go about replacing the epoxy'd nutserts in the fins with full length stainless bolts; one of them has already pulled out as you can see on the trailing end of the passenger side centre fin. urgh.

    Time to finally move onto other enhancements. At long ****ing last.

    - A
     
  7. ZedXTT

    ZedXTT #TEAMROB

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    Nice to see that finished.

    Whats next?
     
  8. dropthebass

    dropthebass New Member

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    Looks good man,

    Do you have a photo from the back taken from normal eye level?
     
  9. Anti

    Anti 14.7 x 14.7 = 44.1

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    I'm probably even more glad than you to have it done, haha. Probably front tubs next, or mounting the brakes.

    Unfortunately these photos are as good as it gets for the time being. The car is up on stands with just a foot between the rear bar and my work bench, and I don't even have the front subframe in right now so I can't drop it down to roll forward. When I have better pictures I'll post them up, I really wish I could eye it off properly too.
     
  10. Anti

    Anti 14.7 x 14.7 = 44.1

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    Garage is a bit too tight for my DSLR lens, but the camera phone can take in the new rear end setup a bit better. Sorry about the quality.

    [​IMG]
     
  11. MagicMike

    MagicMike Moderator Staff Member

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    Looks great, nice job. Totally worth it in the end
     
  12. mtopxsecret6

    mtopxsecret6 Member

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    what suspension is in this?
    cheers
     
  13. Anti

    Anti 14.7 x 14.7 = 44.1

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    A whole lot of stuff. Have a look in the garage link in my signature.
     
  14. mtopxsecret6

    mtopxsecret6 Member

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    They have so much more travel then the teins.
     
  15. Anti

    Anti 14.7 x 14.7 = 44.1

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    Yeah the Powertrix are good for that. I had two sets of Teins before switching to these. If you want lows, get yourself some Powertrix or check out Powered By Max.
     
  16. mtopxsecret6

    mtopxsecret6 Member

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    PBM are expensive atm, trying to save for a house.
     
  17. Anti

    Anti 14.7 x 14.7 = 44.1

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    I am currently off for a few weeks between semesters and have had time for the car. Second half of semester is always a killer, but I did very well so it was worth it.

    I'm also doing a big tear down on my daily 675 Daytona. I started riding it a two or so months ago and it's stock as a rock. Nothing mental, just needed the usual; remove unnecessary factory crap, regular bolt ons, odds and ends then tune. Then put it back together and never throw spanners at it again (touch wood).

    No big content post on the Zed yet, but one is in the works. I'm doing the front tubs and am probably nearly half way through.

    In the mean time though I did polish off a tidy up job on my cluster.

    Here's how it used to look:

    [​IMG]

    And now:

    [​IMG]

    The difference is with the GReddy. I wasn't keen on the double screen and different ring, so I had the gauge disassembled and sent the cup off to a buddy to have him lathe it down to clear the cluster ring from the set I already had. Sprayed the inside of the gauge cup black so it didn't show and now it looks nearly OEM.
    - A
     
  18. MagicMike

    MagicMike Moderator Staff Member

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    cluster looks tops!
     
  19. Anti

    Anti 14.7 x 14.7 = 44.1

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    Thanks man. I'm looking forward to doing the same on the other side, but no one can step forward with the goods as for a replacement fuel gauge for the oil pressure slot.
     
  20. bRACKET

    bRACKET Do Right Dean

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    I'm not your buddy, guy.

    Looks great though, obviously.
     

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