Been wondering this too. I'm not so concerned about the contact with the plug but how vibration etc of the unsecured coil of going to affect the lifespan.
These clip onto the spark plug the same way an ignition lead clips onto a plug or dizzy cap, not just sit on like the OEM coils. Normally the top ring of the coil pack would also fit snugly in the spark plug tube to minimize vibration as well, so these are basically interference fit, however most people are choosing to run without spark plug tubes in favour of making it more serviceable. There are two paths you can take to install these in a manner that doesn't require a plenum pull to change plugs, and both have benefits: 1) Remove spark plug tubes - this still requires a plenum pull, but only once. It also means you can swap back to stock coils if for some reason you needed to, however no-one has said they have had issues with these coils. 2) Grind off original coil mounting tabs - This option will allow you to retain the tubes, which gives a more snug fit, and it looks great. Just look at the pics John posted above.
Jordan has it. The last pic with the whole plenum depicts a few things. 1. That plenum as you can see has the oem coilpacks removed. 2. It also doesn't clearly show that there has been some massaging between the plenum runners to smooth out some of the casting flashings. We're all aware of the sating flashings on the plenum with regards to easier injector replacement and this is also the case in this particular install. 3. #2 cylinder plenum runners did have some shaving done as it's the most restrictive coilpack access. 4. With that plenum modded the way you see it, he can still run the oem plastic spark plug tubes and remove each coilpack without having to pull the plenum. 5. That last pic also shows all of the R8 coilpacks fully seated onto the spark plug. 6. Fully seated meaning the end of the coilpack actually "snaps" or "clicks" onto the top of the spark plug cap. AND, the rubber shoulders of the coilpack make a perfect seal into the spark plug tube. IE: No rain, dust or debris is going to be able to make it's way into the spark plug tube. 7. Those feeling concerned about the outer casing of the R8 coilpack stem being metal and possible encountering a short to the spark plug tube walls do not have to worry. The outer metal stem of these coilpacks are fully insulated from the internal connection to the spark cap/top. 8. The person who did that R8 coilpack conversion also removed those same coilpacks and did some test fitting of them onto another persons Z having a non modified plenum and it's the source of info/data regarding the use of them on non modified plenums. 9. Use of these coilpacks will require the user to have an ecu set-up that allows for dwell adjustments to maximize the full potential of the 30kv that they can deliver. Those using a stand alone ecu or Nistune or similar.
Reference links; http://forums.nicoclub.com/do-you-s...and-ptu-as-much-as-i-do-t551128.html#p6272015 https://www.facebook.com/groups/513963345293221/permalink/816910934998459/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/513963345293221/permalink/836057036417182/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/513963345293221/permalink/817333368289549/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C1WH0OExQyA&feature=youtu.be http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=332677 Most recent data; https://www.facebook.com/groups/582614255206757/permalink/590459914422191/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/227766473927972/permalink/774568702581077/
Do you have to actually cut the coilpack lugs off to fit these (or is it an option) or can you maneouver the ignitors around to get them in or even use a smaller connector etc? They look very snazzy I just don't like the idea of hacking into the plenum even if its just a cosmetic change (as my plenum is powdercoated) Regards JC
You dont HAVE to. If you dont you will need to pull the plenum every time you need to get to them tho (as far as i understand). Now... What boost has this setup been run at and with what plug gap? (Without spark blowout obviously)
The advantages and benefits gained by improving 25+ year old igniter technology make this a worthwhile mod IMO. It's not a costly mod. It gives those with high HP aspirations something to augment and easily achieve those goals. Is a better solution then using an ignition amplifier. (I currently use an HKS ignition amplifier and know first hand the benefits of an improved spark process). It lends itself to a much cleaner burn/spark which would be a very welcomed aspect for those who have emissions requirements. And as a side benefit, it permits the deletion of the PTU which IMO is a small but accepted plus. Then there's the esthetics component to this which some may hold a higher value of, but for me ..... not so much.
Splitfires are arguably similar to new oem coilpacks, but anything new is an upgrade on 25 year old coilpacks. Read somewhere where someone did the r8 coilpack install and then removed them, due to the plenum 'bending' them, as in they did not sit on the same axis as the spark plug itself.
Has anyone considered what you are going to do if you get fluid in the valley of the cylinder heads? What I've seen so far with this adaptation is the removal of the factory shrouds for the spark plugs which by design keep this area dry (water and oil) along with the rubber grommet at the top of the COP stem. I do like this idea but personally I would be trying to adapt another coil to the OEM stem rather than replace the entire assembly.
Although not depicted in the pics, that modded plenum can and will be using those plastic oem spark plug tubes/shrouds to prevent such a thing. Those that don't choose to do the moderate shaving of a few runners would need to remove that spastic protective tube/shroud.
Not sure if you guys will be able to follow this link or not as its on facebook, but Robbie has just got his R8 coils running. More details to follow https://www.facebook.com/groups/513963345293221/1432498433439703/?notif_t=group_comment_reply
Keep scrolling down, he got it running smoothly. He just needed to swap the plugs on cylinders 4 and 6 around
right. Exelent. But then again why wouldnt it run. Its just a matter of getting the wires in the right spot really. But yeah.. Cool.
Im still trying to find out the required dwell time for these coils/igniters. if someone could please enlighten me...
Ok so I can see Jordan saying the r8s require 3ms but I cant confirm elsewhere. I cant see thrm helping much more than stock, leaving this a cosmetic upgrade. (And ptu delete)