does it have many or big balancing weights welded on it, that will let you know if it was far out before it was balanced
no the engineering guy said it was ok and didnt require any straightening, I have removed the extension housing on the spare Tranny and checked the bush the new shaft and the old spare It is nice and snug in the bush, I am still waiting on a replacement axle shaft the chap on gum tree has not got back to me, then I can swap everything out and check it
For those interested. Today I replaced the LH Axle, the rear extension housing of the auto transmission, the engine mount, and the final drive, the vibration is till there, "it must be this new one piece tail shaft". I have had it checked at the engineering shop and they said it was straight, but when it is running in the car on stands I can see the small wobble so stuffed if I know the car the not drievable over 80km/ph due to severe vibration, the faster the speed the vibration gets worse.
ok after spending a another ridiculous amount of money this second hand quoted as "done less than 1oookm" shaft, it now owes me at least 800.oo they say the tube is no good, the tube is twisted they balanced and straightened it within spec, showed it to me on the machine, and said if sit still vibrates there is nothing more can be done. I refitted it and it only vibrates now at 95- 110 kmph, WTF.. so its going in the bin...end of saga. I now know why it was sold off.
Oh dear. NG. I had the same issue as you. The one in my Z now is from Shaft Masters USA. Aluminium filled with some foam to stop it ringing. Plug and play and no vibrations. Perhaps go on their website and check out the testimonials and if satisfied, send them an email.
I added more to my previous post, but it was deleted by the edit time limit. Dynabeads probably won't work because drive shaft radius is too small. Adding ATF, same reason. Loosely fitted hose clamps over a sticky greased up drive shaft, so when you stop ....... the hose clamps are still in the position, ...... then tighten them up. So is that worth a try?
Had a quick look here, if the two piece was vibrating then the problem must be elsewhere other than the one piece tail shaft. You did the right thing and got a new one made, messing around with used parts when there is a problem is not the thing to do. Tail shaft vibrations can be tricky to pin down, a mate had a problem a while ago so I did some Googling then, lot's of nonsense out there but some good info too. Like the angles of the shaft compared with the diff pinion and crankshaft, it can get quite technical and needs a technical approach, like measuring those angles. I'm assuming that the diff and engine mounts are in good firm condition.
I had a tail shaft vibration straight after I refitted my engine. I was careful to mark the flanges, and it was refitted in the exact position it came from. The first time I drove the car after the engine was running I had a nasty vibration @ 80 k to around 100k. I rotated the shaft every which way and nothing helped, replaced the center bearing, still no good. The only thing I could think of that had changed was I had replaced the engine and gearbox mounts. The up shot is, I had a chat with geron, and he assured me the one piece alloy shaft was a good investment, he was right.The Shaft Masters one piece is strong, smooth as silk and quit as a kitten, worth every cent.
thanks for tips, I appreciate it, all the engine mounts have been replaced. I have sent the original 2 piece away to have the front uni replaced at least it was drivable, I didn't go for the shaft master one as it was at the time out of my budget, but wish I had now, at the moment this s/hand shaft plus all the other bits has cost over $1000, not including the new cost of repairing the old 2 piece.
Obviously it's your car and pocket but you seem to be jumping all over the place and getting nowhere. I'd be concentrating on the new one piece tailshaft, it should work and there is not much more to be checked to eliminate all possible causes. It's not rocket science, it's all about identifying possible causes and eliminating them one by one which you don't appear to have done yet..
it was the new replacement transmission mount, looked the same had the same number on the rubber, but lifted the gearbox higher when fitted thanks every one
Was it a Nismo mount? Or OEM? Or...? That’s a very strange outcome, usually you would replace a worn transmission mount when chasing tailshaft issues so as to resolve any misalignment... it seems very odd that a new mount would CAUSE a problem.
I believe it might be for a z31 although identical in appearance the rubber insulator was a lot higher and no it was aftermarket not genuine , yeah I know should have worked it out a lot sooner, I refitted the old mount as I still had it, the vibration is just detectable at 100kph, later on I will switch it out to the 2 piece and try it, I had the front uni joint replaced in that. I will order another mount from somewhere other than the local auto pro store and change it over then.
"later on I will switch it out to the 2 piece and try it, I had the front uni joint replaced in that." Are you able to provide a picture of the replaced universal joint in the two piece shaft? Would be interested to see how it has been resecured. On the subject of the transmission mount that was 'higher' than standard. How much of a difference in height are you talking about? The concept that a difference in height would cause a vibration doesn't appear to make sense. A cardan shaft, which is what a propeller shaft, or drive shaft, or tail shaft is, is designed to include a certain amount of offset between each end. If the offset is outside of design tolerances premature wear will occur to the universal joints. There shouldn't be any vibration occurring until the universals are damaged. Do you recall way back on Page 1, someone posted............. "Have you checked the condition of suspension, diff, transmission & engine mounts/bushes?
