i did the heater core bypass, in the process i moves aside some cables and such and now that i put it all back in place it seems that i must have losened some cables or something because it feels like not all the cylinders are firing. I had a look and pushed all the connectors together and nothing, this wasnt happening before i did the bypass... Any help? much appreciated
Which connectors did you remove? Coil pack, injectors and air-reg? Check that you have NOT swapped air-reg with #5 injector... common prob; OR contacts may need cleaning now that connectors have been disturbed. Do a firing test by pulling off each coil pack connector in turn until you find the ONE that makes NO difference at idle.... that will clue you up.
i didnt actually disconnect anything which is wierd, i just pulled it aside (i tried to be gentle but obviously not enough). so do i just disconnect the coil pack plugs ? or pull em off one at a time?
Still try to find which cylinder is being affected. If not the plug, you may have broken a wire or insulation. Maybe a vacuum hose split or disconnected.
With the car running, pull the coilpack connectors 1 at a time. If you note that the engine drops a further cylinder with the removal of the connector, you have eliminated that cylinder. Replace the connector and move to the next until you have isolated the misfiring cylinder. *NOTE* Misfire might not be completely present under idle. You may have to open the throttles up a little while performing the procedure. Once you have identified the misfire, check the connections. Unbolt the coilpack (with the engine turned off of course), sit it on top of the plenum and slide a screwdriver into the coilpack, giving yourself a 5mm gap between the metal handle of the screwdriver and a metal surface of the plenum. MAKE SURE YOU DONT DISLODGE OR LOSE THE SPRING LOADED CARBON CONNECTOR WITHIN THE COILPACK STALK. Restart the car, and see if the coilpack is sparking from the screwdriver shaft down to earth. If so, you have eliminated the coilpack as the source. If not, check the condition of the coilpack for cracks or moisture. Ascertain that you didnt get any coolant on or around the area while performing the heater bypass. Swap your questionable coilpack for that of another cylinder that you have found to be firing and repeat the screwdriver procedure with the second coilpack. This will identify if the fault is with the coilpack itself or the connector/loom. If you get spark, you have a faulty coilpack (move on to next step) If you dont, you have a faulty connector/wiring loom (clean connector, making sure that you dont spread the female sockets of it too far, you wont get a connection this way, no matter how clean you get them). Repeat procedure. If you STILL dont get spark, you're in trouble. Start looking at PTU, but doubt thats the case from a simple heater hose bypass. Once you have proven coilpack and connector, move on to Spark Plug Galley. As mentioned before, if ANY coolant was spilled on the top of the motor and your Galley Cover Seals are perished, it will allow coolant down the galley. Electricity will take the path of least resistance, so any moisture in the galley can cause the coilpack to spark to earth, rather than through the plug. Remove spark plug and check condition. Again, unlikely to be failure after heater bypass, but check all the same. It is possible to fit the plug to the coilpack, sit it against the plenum and start the car to check for firing, but it isnt advised for obvious reasons IF you have checked all that, move on to injector. Have left them till last as they are the hardest to access. Pulling of the balance pipe is easiest to access rear injectors. Like the coilpack connectors, check condition. Careful when removing connectors as the retaining spring tends to go flying and lose itself in the depths of the lower plenum. Holding a screwdriver against the injector itself, while connected, and putting the handle to your ear is a simple way of checking injector function. You will be able to hear it "ticking". ABOVE ALL, HAVE FUN, and get used to finding another problem the moment 1 is fixed.
Great post My bet is on # 5 and/or 6 injector connectors have been disturbed. They can look ok but as others have said above, the connection may have been disturbed. There are several tech articles in tech about cleaning the connectors. Don't worry. 95% chance it will just be a disturbed electrical connector. You can replace the injector connectors for around $10ea at worst case.
yes, those are your coilpack connectors. You will notice a distinctive change in idle if you remove the currently firing coilpack. The 2 x 8mm bolts to the LHS of those connectors are to remove the coilpack itself. be careful when removing. The coilpack has a stalk on it which you dont want to snap. Once you've removed the 2 x bolts, slide a small flathead screwdriver between the bracket and the plenum to gently persuade the coilpack out. Avoid sideways movement.
ok ive narrowed it down to (facing the engine) back right. I removed all with distinctive idle drop and that one didnt have any effect. What could be my problems here? broken wires from moving them? old spark plugs?
read as I posted above. You have identified the cylinder that is misfiring, that's just the first step. Need to identify if its:- 1. Coilpack or connector 2. Sparkplug 3. Injector 4. Loom itself Follow the steps I posted above, and it will help you to eliminate each and identify within which component the fault lies
95% chance its the injector connector is loose/dirty/corroded connection to the injector... Fix this first... then look for others. I'll bet my left nut on this (and no, i don't need them anymore so i can afford to lose one )
betting Zed4life's RIGHT nut that you have moisture in your spark plug galley. Its a long shot, but Im a gambling man
Recently had the problem of leaking heater core on the way up to Rockhampton, did the heater core bypass on the side of the road but mnaged to stretch on of the smaller vacumm hoses in the process. did not notice any change in engine until the next day and it was cold, very rough idle and running like a wooly goat untill it warmed up, idle was a problem once up the rev range it ran a lot smoother. so get it idling and stick your head to the back of the motor aroungd the battery area and listen for sucking air sound. Replace the old hose no more problems !!
By all means. you are welcome to my right one for the bet. But I'll raise you by adding other appendages to the pot ... I might end up a eunuch before this problem is solved ...
