Radius Rod Bushings

Discussion in 'Technical' started by PC100Z, Dec 9, 2011.

  1. PC100Z

    PC100Z Member

    Im buying some things from CZP.
    Amongst other things, I need to fix the issue of wornout Radius Rod Bushings.
    Mechanic is suggesting OEM Nissan Rods Complete with Bushings ($198).
    Anyone purchased the Adjustable versions off CZP (prices vary from $140 - $285) and what brand have proved good. Happy with a ride as close to stock as possible.
    Pedders are wanting $88 to fit if Iwas to just just want Nismo bushings fitted to my old rods however mechanic has concerns over the bushings splitting doing this.
    Any help much appreciated.
     
  2. Chrispy

    Chrispy Pretentious Upstart

    Get the old bushes pushed out at anyold tyre/suspension shop. Last set cost me $20 before I bought my press. Put the new ones in and you're done. I never had any trouble with anything splitting.
     
  3. warren300

    warren300 SLICKTOP TT

    Those adjustable ones use rod ends , they wont last nearly as long as rubber bushes.
    I bought a set of Hardrace brand rubber bushes from Just Jap and had no problems changing them myself. Your actually pressing on the metal shell not the rubber bush itself.
     
  4. CHILI

    CHILI Indestructable Target

    OEM bushes probably last longer, but I have never had "rose-jointed" adjustable units wear out the rod ends(probably because I have always had dust covers fitted to them).
     
  5. Chrispy

    Chrispy Pretentious Upstart

    Did you buy the dust boots separate from the arms? Or did they come fitted? I've had trouble getting separate dust boots.
     
  6. CHILI

    CHILI Indestructable Target

    They came as an option when I purchased the Tune Agent Tension Rods from UAS(well worth the additional couple of bucks IMHO).
     
  7. PC100Z

    PC100Z Member

    So, are you thinking that the Polyurathane Energy Suspension Bushes OR the Nismo (Harder Rubber that OEM) are the Bushes to go for ?
     
  8. warren300

    warren300 SLICKTOP TT

    The Radius rod has to twist as it moves with the LCA and in my opinion the urethane bush is to solid and and will bind rather twist and move freely with the LCA.
    Thats why People fit pillow ball radius rods as it removes this bind point.
    Oem is rubber filled with some kind of gel
    Nismo and Hardrace are solid rubber but still way softer than urethane.

    Next time you jack the car up look at how much radius rod twists as the wheel droops.
     
  9. QLDZDR

    QLDZDR ID=David

    If anyone is interested, this is what my tension / radius / caster bush looked like. You can see the split where the silicone fluid leaked out.

    [​IMG]

    Since I have bought the replacement bush (3 piece poly and sleeve Energy Suspension ) I have to get the current one out of the rod. I assume I have the OEM part. It isn't quite what I expected. Even after cutting the very thick rubber on both sides of the bush there is still a metal cylinder that has to be pressed out. It is exactly the size of a 95g can of tuna.
    [​IMG]
    This is the part that sits inside the thick rubber sides of the bush.
    [​IMG]
    There isn't much space for silicone fluid in this bush. The centre part means that the caster bush is still going to hold itself together even after the silicone leaks out. There won't be a catastrophic failure with the oem style bush.

    Anyway, after attacking the rubber part with a drill, dremmel, knife, screwdriver and a bearing puller, I still need to take it somewhere to get the tuna can pressed out.

    ..... and I can't get the bolt out on the other side radius rod. :bash: I knew this would happen. .. half started job and now I am stuck, but Pedders were too busy and Jax Tyres weren't interested when I called last week.
     
  10. QLDZDR

    QLDZDR ID=David

    One of my caster bush bolts wouldn't budge so I tried to find a wheel alignment shop (not KTAS) but Pedders is too busy and Jax tyres isn't interested in pressing out the old bush before doing the wheel alignment and selling me some tyres.
    I decided to loosen the UAS underbrace and the two radius arm bolts. The driver side came out easily, I stupidly chopped up the OEM caster bush, so now I can't put it back and drive to some place to get it sorted.
    [​IMG]

    which would have been OK because the passenger side bolt is still too tight. More than 100Nm to even start moving the bolt. I have tried weight on the wheels and weight off the wheels.
    So the radius rod (tension caster rod) is in tension and binding up that bolt? ?? Not sure how do I get it to relax? I thought weight off the wheel would do it.
    [​IMG]

    Annoying situation now, can't drive it to someone to get it sorted. :mad:
     
  11. ADAMZX

    ADAMZX 2000spec Conversion

    When i did mine i was lucky my uncle who lives local to me has a hydralic press which was what you need to use to remove the old bush. You shouldnt have cut the bush mate but its too late now. If you can find someone with a press you can do it yourself. Also im sure you know this you should be using a breaker bar to remove these bolts easily. I never had too much trouble with mine using a breaker bar.
     
  12. rollin

    rollin First 9

    One of those bolts is tight because the threads were not cut properly. I used a long ratchet to tighten it. But on a hoist you have more space.

    Put one side back together and get it on a hoist to take the other side out. That's my advice
     
  13. East Coast Z

    East Coast Z Well-Known Member

    Remove the tension rod bracket assemblies & sway bar bushes, then remove the tension rod & bracket as an assembly.
    Then you can take your bits & pieces to an engineering shop that has a suitable press.
    They'll probably undo the difficult bolt for you with a rattle gun.

    Tension rod bolt part number: 54475-15000
    Nut: 01225-00491
     
  14. QLDZDR

    QLDZDR ID=David


    Oops, I didn't read that properly, so it could be the Nissan Bolt thread was not cut properly.
    I just finished complaining to UAS, I'll have to get to them on that.

    :eek:
     
  15. rollin

    rollin First 9

    pm coming
     
  16. QLDZDR

    QLDZDR ID=David

    Thanks for the suggestion. Just looking at what that involves, I think the opportunity to do a full poly bush set while there, would be wasted if I didn't.

    I am thinking that taking the tension rod that I have already temoved, to somewhere and getting the bits that are still there pressed out so I can refit it with the new poly bush. Then I csn drive the car somewhere and get the problem passenger side attacked and the bush ptessed out and the UAS Underbrace recut thread and bolt replaced.

    Thanks for the part number for bolt.
    The nut is replaced by the UAS underbrace.

    [​IMG]

    This much wound out using my torque wrench
     
  17. FireHorse

    FireHorse Member

    Nispro on the Goldy were selling new tension rods (pillow ball) for around $120 a few weeks back
     
  18. QLDZDR

    QLDZDR ID=David

    For the amount of effort / expense required to remove the oem bush (also requires car being off the road) just so we can keep the OEM rod, it doesn't seem worth it. A swap in part that is ready to go is a good idea.

    They should be sold as a pair so was $120 for the pair.

    I still have the problem of getting this bolt out and probably replaced.
     
  19. FireHorse

    FireHorse Member

    Yes, that was a pair

    I bought a set myself, can post up some pics this weekend if you want. I work on the GC during the week, Nispro isnt too far away so I could probably collect for you?

    I think I also have some spare OEM ones laying around, used of course...
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2017
  20. ADAMZX

    ADAMZX 2000spec Conversion

    Dude u cant use a torque wrench to remove bolts you will damage your torque wrench doing that. You could always cut the head of the bolt off and slide it off but you would need to buy a new bolt though.
     

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