Coolant bypass hose dimensions

What are the dimensions of the 2x coolant bypass hose?
Also does the water pipe with the sensors just use liquid gasket or is there a specific gasket for it. I need to know, before I start taking apart.

 

I.D. is 32mm or 1.25 inch. Not sure of the length, I just bought a length of straight rad. hose and cut it to suit.
I used Loctite Copper Max Silicone (Loctite 5920) for the pipe flanges . There's no gaskets and the loctite has held up for years. Specs are here; http://www.loctite.com.au/3320_AUE_...0161&msdsLanguage=EN_AU&selectedTab=technical

 

Recently I had cause to remove heads from a 5 year, 30K odd old engine that had been comprehensively rebuilt with new hoses etc etc.

Originally I wasn't sold on silicon aftermarket hoses, so it was a combination of silicon and OEM rubber hoses on the initial rebuild.

To be honest I was shocked at how hard the OEM rubber stuff had gone in a relatively short time and needed to be replaced. The silicon stuff was fine to go again.

So I used Z1Motorsport silicon bypass hoses, I wanted to use the OEM spring constant tension clips and thought that hardening of OEM rubber bypass hoses might be the reason that they are a regular problem when old. The thinking was that if silicon stays flexible longer it will allow the constant tension clips to do there job.

https://www.z1motorsports.com/water.../z1-silicone-coolant-bypass-hoses-p-2971.html

And as the description says they we be re used and not need to be replaced, maybe not for ever. lol

 

I too noticed how hard the OEM hoses were so opted for Goodyear Hi Miler hose, used extensively in the trucking industry. This was before the silicon hoses were widely available years ago. Its held up very well although its a bit thicker than the OEM stuff and was a little harder getting the constant tension clips back on.
http://tdiaustralia.com/automotive-hose/hi-miler-straight-radiator-hose

Not sure how it compares price wise. I expect silicon hoses are a lot cheaper these days and as suggested long lasting but it gives you another option if you want to source something locally.

 

I am sure I have seen this on cars over the years, a blue textile canvas kind of finish on the outside.

I see you listed it over 10 years ago, if its still good, that is good enough for me.

 

Thanks for the replies/ information.

 

Just update. I bought a couple of silicone hoses with:
I.D. of 32 mm/1.25 inch
Length of 80 mm/3.14 inch
(Length of rubber hoses I pulled off was 74 mm/ 2.91 inch)

By the way: the little pipes (part#14053-F651A) that these hoses attach to (that bolt to the heads) cost $59 each from Nissan.

 

Just had a TWD flash alert on the dash, but it wasn't such a hot day so I just switched the AirCon off and expected to see the TWD immediately stop. It didn't so I decided to go home (because 2 minutes away).
The Nissan temp guage did not move from the normal horizontal position even when I stopped in the driveway. Steam coming from under bonnet, so I switched off the engine.
She's sprung a leak from the area behind those coolant hard pipes, infront of waterpump.
The water pump and those two short hoses were replaced less than 30K ago (mechanic did the work) The rubber looks and feels very new so it was definitely replaced.
Tried to spot the exact source of the leak with a very fine endoscope plugged into my phone. Impossible for me to manouvre so I could not get a pic to post.

I am thinking that the problem will be related to those bolt on flanges, so good to know the part numbers and price, thanks. Did you replace them since you were there?

I would not have known there was a problem if I didn't have the TWD. I checked the coolant level recently and it was full because coolant temp with aircon running was hovering on the 95 degrees (checked with NDSI app on my phone) last week in really hot weather. So this has only happened suddenly.

 

Rubber hose split.
The short 32mm diameter hose on the passenger side had a split along the worm screw clamp edge and coolant was leaking down on the engine. It is after the temp sensor and car hadn't registered overheating on the gauge so it was just on 95 degrees.

Has anyone used another type of clamp here, because I found it almost impossible to get access to the clamp and to get it off. I know I won't be able to get it back on.

I will be replacing the hoses with Silicone rubber hose, so can I use those spring clamps?


Should I be removing more Zed bits before trying to put it back together?


The gaskets that were on everything looked like they were about to fail.

 

Using OEM spring clamps on silicon is the best combination on the short bypass hoses I think.

 

OK, I will look for those spring clamps.

24220-F650A

Are you still using

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/on...Sealant-Liquid-No-3.aspx?pid=5355#Description

 

I used Aviation No 3 the first time around on advice of the forum, to be honest I wouldn't use it again and didn't recently.

IMO it contributed to the build up of shit at the hose to pipe joint.

Your bypass tubes look to be in very good condition, that is probably because it has had the coolant/inhibitor well maintained, that is all you need to do IMO.

Worm clamps are a fixed tension and with the constant expansion and contraction the hose material will compress and in turn become lose and leak, the alternative is to fit it so tight it cuts into the hose, which is what possibly happened with yours.

I have never run them on the bypass but I am sure there are people here that will swear by them.

The silicon bypass hoses are a bit thicker but the spring clamp will still fit.

 

I had to replace the bypass pipes as they had badly corroded around the lip, so clamps would not have sealed for much longer.

The silicone hoses I bought are thicker than the old rubber ones. My spring clamps were hard to get open enough to fit over the hoses. But they fitted, and I've had no leaks.
------
Side note: To get the upper water pipe back on easier; I personally had to grind down the raised circled number on the top of the pipe so it wouldn't catch on the backside of the timing cover.

 

What he said. It is worth $59.02
but since I want to get my car together I am agreeing with Briz, the condition is surprisingly good.

I am putting the silicone hose on because I bought it and have it, but it looks like crap, Rob260 suggestion sounds heaps better. See photo.

The coolant only has to get past the thinnest layer of Silicone (looks like layers of vinyl paint between gauze) before the liquid would find is way and weep out.

I could not find any place selling OEM spring hose clamps (aftermarket or OEM service centre for Holden, Ford or Mitsubishi, unfortunately Nissan not around here) they all specify spring hose clamps but replace them with worm screw type.

I also tried fastener wholesale places and then someone suggested wreckers.

I went to the wreckers and they told me they throw them away when they cut parts out of cars. They gave me a tool and pointed me at the wrecks.

I am only using 4 of the bunch I cut off the radiator hoses. So I have a few spares. There are some different designs and the two that came off the Toyota Yaris look a bit tricky. It has a mouth and tongue that lock together. This holds the clamp open so you can fit the hose. When everything is in place, screw driver can lever the tongue up and the clamp tightens. I have included a pic of the clamps, unlocked clamp position(right) and locked open (left).