needs to be near the factory one, in the top radiater pipe. ideally, drill and tap a hole the correct thread size next to the factory sender, becasue the further you get from that location, the less "correct" your reading will be. This is why you often see the factory sensor removed to fit a aftermarket alternative (im not a fan of this as it leaves the factory gauge inoperable, which looks sh1t house)
no problems there, there is enough room on the hardpipe to drill and tap a additional hole for a additional sensor.
I don't think the pipe itself is thick enough -when I had gauges I had an ally bung welded to the pipe which was then tapped and drilled. Wherever you do mock it up first and make sure the sensor clears the timing covers.
usefull to know, i thought it was thick enough. putting a bung on is probly a good safety measure..............dont need it cracking or something when your driving in the middle of nowhere.
I would advise against it...... The temperature sender unit needs to be immersed in your coolant to give an accurate reading (it can't measure air temp) and if you happen to run low on fluid it will be sitting in mid air if you put it in the air bleed screw hole IMHO you should re-tap the oem sender hole to fit the AM sender. Your oem gauge/sender is not worth a pinch of cow poo anyway p.s use the oem wiring to connect your AM gauge and sender (much neater)
Mount it anywhere in the pipework/hose going into (not out of) the radiator. If you were serious, you would run two temperature gauges. One in the radiator inlet line & one in the outlet line, then you could measure the thermal efficiency of the radiator. Easily done with two K-type thermocouples & a meter. http://www.instrumentchoice.com.au/..._c=404702540&gclid=CLCkgMfyx8wCFZaXvQodm0oInQ
No one noticed this thing that Gunwarm posted earlier. Why don't you just use the oem hole for the new more accurate sender and put one of these in for the Nissan original in your instrument cluster. Or you could do as suggested above to test thermal efficiency and put on bottom hose, but as zx299 reminds us, the piece of cow poo 《image removed》 reference, LOL but correct. You have a TWD ?
I think they notice but don't like to say:rolleyes2: Thank you for notice of the above I have one on the way :rolleyes2::zlove: Cheers Peter,better known as RTE38
I asked if you use a TWD because I use one and I just connected it to the ecu. It gets its signal from the existing sensor so you can't remove that sensor. You can't move that sensor to the bottom hose either as it will be less effective. Someone just told me there are two oem sensors on that hard pipe?
