Hey guys, I made the mistake of trying to adjust my clutch as it was not disengaging properly and grinding pretty bad from the PO. Its a pretty heavy ceramic clutch. I was following this guide and some common sense, but it does not seem to make a difference. (http://twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/FAQ/FAQpages/clutchadjustment.html) The pedal is almost adjusted as far in as it can go having a fair hike between engage and the top of the pedal. The switch for the pedal has also been adjusted to the right height for the pedal position. When the car is hot it will not slip at all, only when cold and mainly 4th/5th with increased torque. While its slipping I cant go over equal manifold pressure or it will slip. I am wondering what else could be causing this as its a PITA waiting for the car to get hot before the fun starts. I will be changing slave cylinder and the fluid from what I have been using (bendix dot 4). Clutch master is fairly new and one piece braided line from master to slave. Ill report back soon with results from salve and fluid but I am being hopeful I feel. Clutch engage is roughly halfway pedal height, pretty instant engage so there isn't a lot to account for. And as mentioned above switch is adjusted accurately and pedal almost adjusted fully out. Any help/experience will be loved, so that I can stop getting upside down for the clutch. <3 <3
How old is this clutch? Maybe it's worn out? As far as adjusting the clutch pedal height, look in the Nissan Factory Service Manual in the CLUTCH Section. The fluid is used to disengage the clutch so you can change gears. If you were to drain all the fluid out of the system, it would have no effect on the engagement (of course you wouldn't be able to disengage the clutch).
The clutch has about 40-50k kms on it. So I'm not expecting it to be warn that far. Is there enough clearance with the started removed for inspection? Chris instructed to me straight to fluid as he has seen it before, I agree with your logic which makes 100% sense, but Im hoping reality may be different (somehow). I am just looking for a another reason. Also, once the clutch has slipped what are the chances of heat damage to clutch system. Will there require a non-slip wear in period like a new clutch?
If I had to guess I would say the clutch is glazed, may have been overheated previously in traffic and now needs to heat up to grab effectively. If it is glazed, unfortunately the only solution is replacement.
Thanks for your reply martini, ill hope not for now. Do you guys know if I have to adjust the master side of the booster. The service manual does not explain to me well enough.
That's about all I ever got out of a ceramic clutch. Went through two of them before going back to organic.
Clutch is worn out. 40-50k on a car like the zed is pretty good going. Fluid and MC issues result in an inability to disengage, or in rare cases over-pressurisation with heated fluid will cause slip in high heat, you're the opposite. If it makes you feel better I only get 20k out of a clutch (considered good going in my cars) and it's a hell of a lot more painful than replacing the zed's clutch.
What sort of power are you making? About the only thing to check without pulling the box is that you can push the slave cylinder back in by hand with the engine running, if you can then there's no pedal/hydraulic gremlin releasing the clutch. Either the friction material or pressure plate is damaged. Assuming the clutch should hold your power.
I was thinking about this whilst re soldering my power steering solenoid, ill do it in the morning when its cold and has the issue. Good idea, thank you
