Any E-Fan setup will be way more successful in Canada than Australia! John you've done a great job there. Unfortunately in Australia we have far more difficulty doing this conversion successfully since our average ambients are worlds apart. When I embarked on this journey about 5 years ago I lived in the top 10% of the hottest regions in this country. I wanted to implement a system that worked more like a modern day car that utilised a lot of passive cooling and the fan would cut in as required. After many different attempts and designs, the only way I managed to successfully do this was to put in the largest radiator that will fit in a Z32 and that was a 60mm dual core radiator for an NA. This was impossible to do until I decided to discard intercooling and move to water injection. I also relocated the engine oil cooler to the R/S intercooler duct which takes that dispersed heat away from the radiator. My setup is switched via the ECU as this way you can control the fan according to vehicle speed so it works with the air conditioning properly but I guess in Canada you could probably go without it. My fans are twin setup (fits on the larger radiator face) from a 1996 Ford Falcon that moves approximately 4000CFM and a lot quieter than a single fan like the SPAL.
I just spent over 2 hours searching threads and Z1's site for a dedicated listing of their 2.5" boost hoses and found none.
I'm sure if you ask Josh nicely enough he will supply you with a set They will sell them as part of the full 2.5" boost pipe kit but I'm pretty sure they will sell them separately as well & have done in the past I'm pretty sure.
I don't think Josh is working there any more. He was the Z1 3ZC rep for products but hasn't made a made a post on 3ZC in that capacity since last February.
He's still there Anyone at Z1 should be able to help you out, I could sell you some but the shipping would empty your bank account :rofl:
Lol, thanks Glenn. I sent to queries to two different people there (John and Info @ .....) 2 and 3 days ago and no response. I might have to take you up on your offer based on previous shipping fees I've paid in the past from Z1. I just had 2 items from AU shipped within the last month and regular AU post isn't too shabby.
In the last few days I got to test the e-fans abilities on the road. I chalked up about 700kms of various conditions from city, rural, highway, etc. Constant highway speeds of 70mph would range from 169F to 172F. Easy city traffic gave me between 162F to 172F. While stuck in highway gridlock for 30 minutes in 75F weather I saw temps max out at 176F. During gridlock in varied between 172F and 176F. Not once did the high speed function ever have to kick in. Even after a few sessions of good boosting. At present, I'm quite happy with the results I've seen so far. Another Z32 friend of mine got to see it for the first time after having reservations about it when I first talked to him about my conversion. He changed his mind after seeing it and after he and I did a slight timing adjustment. The ease in which you can see not only the crank pulley directly, but being able to see many other components on the front of the engine is great for keeping tabs on serviceability. Now my friend wants me to spec out a similar conversion project for him - go figure.
mines just arrived, love how the motor of the fan site within the hub of the fan itself.. makes it quite low profile
I would love to see your e-fan conversion process. Will you be documenting it? I'd also like to see pics/specs of your newer Taurus fan that will unbolt from it's shroud.
Ill put some pics in my build thread. Not quite to the detail you've gone I doubt I went the same fan as you. Not the later bolt off one
I've been asked in a few in PM's for a list of parts used for my Efan set-up. 1. 95 Taurus Efan https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1138890,parttype,2181 https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1375416&cc=1138890 2. Hollister Road Fan Relay kit http://www.hollisterroad.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MarkVIII 3. Audi Thermosensor Thread size/pitch - M22x1.5 A. 75C-70C/82C-77C 167F-158F/180F-170F http://www.carpartsdiscount.com/aut...d_senders/radiator_fan_switch.html?3593=74371 B. 85C-74C/93C-82C 185F-165F/199F-179F http://www.carpartsdiscount.com/aut...d_senders/radiator_fan_switch.html?3593=74372 4. Custom/Supplemental Parts A. Aluminum bung for Thermosensor, Thread size/pitch - M22x1.5 (see pics) B. Aluminum bungs (x2) from used motorcycle rads to mount on rad for aluminum retaining brackets (see pics) C. Aluminum retaining rad mounting brackets x4 (see pics) D. ABS plastic (2"x7") to cover gap at bottom of fan (see pics) E. Self adheasive edge sealing fan to rad F. Cable shielding for fan relay kit wiring 5. Connectors A. Fan to Fan Relay Metrapak 630 Connector Kit (from Hollister Road) http://www.thehollisterroadcompany.com/630 metripak.html B. Thermosensor to Fan Relay (from any VW/Audi dealership) Connector - part # 893 906 231 Wire Set - part # 000 979 204 More pics here - https://www.facebook.com/john.schra...10151813016008613.1073741830.514248612&type=3
This is an excellent point. I have discussed this as well with Tim O'Connor (aka Woody75) and he's using the exact same fan in a custom aluminum shroud. Actually a number of mid 90's Volvo's used the exact same fan motor and blades but it could be unbolted from it's oem plastic shroud which is what Tim O'Connor did. He lives in the US Midwest where the cooling system demands are much greater. He's had zero issues to contend with in his efan set-up. But getting back to the cheater holes - after 1.5 years of use it seems that the cheater holes in the fan shroud would be a great idea with a heavy thickness rubber flat over them to maintain optimum static/idle cooling ability while still being flexible enough to allow for a better flow-thru condition while at highway speeds. I shall be trying that change fairly shortly. As far as an update goes to my system, it still works top drawer. I constantly monitor coolant temps via my ECUTalk on the Ipaq PPC/PDA during every use. It works actually too well when at idle to the point it doesn't allow my fully warmed up fuel maps to kick in all the time if I stay below 175F. To address this I got another coolant thermo sensor whose gated temp thresholds are slightly higher (read warmer) then my current one. This will help two things. It will place my average coolant temps within the Z32 sweet spot of between 175F and 185F and at the same time will reduce the number of times the coolant fan cycles on and off to maintain the desired thermo sensor temps. That thermo sensor change coupled with those pending flow-thru shroud vents should make this an even better operating cooling mechanism.
i've been using it on my race car.. it moves an incredible amount of air. controlled via haltech off factory temp sensor, only using high speed drops temp from 92 to 82 C in under 4 minutes
I'll be adding some speed holes with rubber flaps to encourage better airflow during highway speeds potentially precipitating the efan to trigger off at highway speeds.
Original thermo switch sensor was too cold. Installed a slightly higher temp range sensor. VW# 251 959 481 K C - 87/76, 93/82. F - 189/169, 200/180
Yes sir. The low speed kicks on at ~ 190F and kicks off at ~ 172F It takes about less then 2 minutes to cool from 190F to 172F. OEM fan could never do that. Not once has it ever got hot enough to engage the high speed.