Car shuddering on take off like it's going over a rough corrugated road.

What's your TPS voltage like?

 

No worries Stocki, hope they help.

 

It's good Mitch, i had that all sorted out a couple of weeks prior. Pretty sure it's going to be a mount . Getting them replaced this weekend hopefully, if Auspost can get their shit together and get the parts up here before friday.

 

My bets are on the driveshaft, go a single piece if you go to replace it.

Sounds exactly the same as what my zed was doing after a year of owning it..it's been going strong on a single piece for 12 years now!

 

Okay, looks like it is going to be the torque converter, so i've placed a wanted ad for local pickup or delivery.

But had the engine mounts replaced whilst there, ewww the passenger side one was as healthy as a mangled corpse after a bomb blast, drivers side was on the wayyyyyyyyyyy out and the trans mount was splitting.

 

It was a worthwhile exercise checking & changing the mounts by the sounds of it.
Perhaps of interest concerning your torque converter..........

http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/203

 

The Converter Shop a call, they might be able to fix it or supply another one.

3216 4998

 

Cheers Karl, hopefully i can find another one in either great working nick or a repairable one and then just do a swap over.

I know our boxes fit the GQ Patrols and the Q45 Infiniti , so are the gear ratios the same as the NA ones ?

 

Gotta love Mrs.Wikipedia at times, answered that question about ratios.

Now if i could only find out, what the torque converter part number/s are, anyone got any numbers ? and yes i know the gb's are RE4R03A. Jut want the TC part number.

 

Whip Brisz (John) a PM ... he is a Fast wizz ......

 

31100-51X02 07/89-09/93
There is an alternate available 31100-51X61
However it is a code 9 replacement.
Suits
09/93-01/97
01/97-10/98
10/98-
The torque converters are Z32 specific.

 

The Patrols and the Z32 TT use RE4R03A, Z32 NA use RE4R01A.

 

Those are TT part numbers for the RE4R03A, not suitable for a vert/NA/RE4R01A.

An awful lot of incorrect part numbers getting quoted these days.

I would quote the correct NA part numbers but I don't think it would help.

Approximately $1700AU landed from Nissan USA but listed as discontinued, estimate 3-4 times the prices from Nissan Australia.

Reconditioning is definitely the way to go, last one I did was $500 carry in from The Converter Shop, expect $500-$1000 for remove and refit with fluid etc + TC reco, so $1000 to $1500 estimate altogether.

I get the impression you are serious about the car and will be keeping it for a while, you seem to be spending money on fixing what is broken etc, if it ends up being the TC consider getting your trans done at the same time if its a little long in the tooth as $500 to $1000 of the $1500 would need to be repeated just to get the auto box out and in. You should be able to get a trans and TC rebuild drive in drive out for around $3000.

I would highly recommend AGAINST and shift modification in an NA vert.

How do you know its a problem with your TC ?

I wouldn't go out and start buying parts like the mounts, whilst it was good that it wasn't a waste by the sound of it.

You really need to be at a good auto trans shop or good Z mechanic.

A failed (of the style) TC is pretty rare, where a failed centre bearing is way more common.

Get it diagnosed properly, if you don't have a trusted mechanic go see Karl.

 

Re: Incorrect Part Numbers

"Those are TT part numbers for the RE4R03A, not suitable for a vert/NA/RE4R01A.

"An awful lot of incorrect part numbers getting quoted these days."

The part numbers are correct.
They are relevant to the RE4R03A gearbox which was the subject.

"Now if i could only find out, what the torque converter part number/s are, anyone got any numbers ? and yes i know the gb's are RE4R03A. Jut want the TC part number".

There was no mention of an NA Convertible with the RE4R01A gearbox anywhere in this thread prior to your response.
My crystal ball is a little hazy these days............

Please refer to this post:

http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=334901

 

Cheers for that Gentlemen, and yep John i am keeping it long term, so fixing up what needs fixing, the mounts where shot so at least there now fixed. I'm going to see how hard it is too remove the TC out of a gearbox that's already out of the car and send that off for rebuild. Once it's done i'll have the GB serviced when i get the swap over done, and probably drop the centre bearing and swap it at the same time. I'll be getting the rear shocks done as well, i know the pax rear is blerghhhhhhh. If worst come to worst, manual swap is always an option.

 

I realise coasts are mounting up but consider doing shocks all round and shock boots, probably why your rear pass shock is gone.

Make sure the auto trans cooler line is flushed and unrestricted, do a service on the trans filters also looking for debris and signs of wear issues. Also a good time to do the band adjust on the auto while its out, all this costs bugger all but is good maintenance.

I would recommend Penrite full synthetic auto trans fluid, a bit pricey but considering it will easily go 2 years/50,000km for most people, the $50 premium for 3x4L is nothing and well worth it.

 

Yep sourcing the shocks and boots, plus looking to get hold of all the cushion rubbers for the rear springs as well. Okay will grab some Penrite trans fluid, and get everything sorted in the box.

 

Ok looks like the problem has been identified, and the prize goes too RENZED as he suggested the driveshaft ,,,,, the yolk and uni joint at the rear are cracked and have split open a tad. The guys opposite Pedders at Geebung are doing the rebuild/repair and will have it back by Friday arvo fitted and Pedders are replacing my rear shocks and a few bushes that are showing some signs of wear and tear.

 

Prize?

What's the prize?
Check out the 5th post from your original post. :bash:

"As Tom suggested, or possibly tail shaft universal joint."

 

Well got vertie back this afternoon, a new one piece was made up as the damage was pretty extensive to repair, so went down the path of the onesie brigade, not cheap but the job was well done. It also made me realise how long the issue had been building, since driving it home and going wow NO vibrations of any sort, it was smooth as and felt good to gun it and not go shiiit what was that noise or rattle or clunk .

So thanks to all those with the suggestions and thoughts on the issue, another happy resolution and happy car.