Sound like my temps Mark! I feel much better now I have an aftermarket NA radiator in mine which I can't fit the life of me remember the name of it... It starts with a K lol I bought it off of Dean from his NA. I also have the usual underplenum water bypass's done too.
mine got warm the other day ECU talk said it was 99 c in my tt this was after about 200km of driving it was a hot day. I stopped removed the nose panel and kept driving it sat down at 90 c then. All this has done is highlight the need to fix the issues the previous own may not have been aware about i just need fit a radiator shroud and make an under tray Oh and use it as an excuse with the wife for a new fron bar and venter nose panel :zlove:. I believe that most of the air wouldn't have been travelling trough the radiator. There is no under tray between the front mount intercooler and the radiator. So in my case its not a case of something faulty it is just a case of buy a sheet of ally and fab some parts to fix the issue. Oh and a new front bar
In relation to cooling, I found when I deleted my AC system that the temps ran a lot lower. Guessing that the AC condenser was blocking airflow to radiator.
92 TT I get 82c - 86c regardless of weather (on ecutalk) Have the plenum delete and the radiator is stock
I drove my Zed more than 5ks for the first time in 6 months on Tuesday. I just don't like clocking up ks on it :rofl:. I put a vented bonnet on it a couple of years ago thinking it would help the motor run cooler but it has bugger all effect on running temps. With a new thermostat / viscous fan and aluminium radiator and the special Ultra Cool coolant I use on a 44 degree day in city / country driving it pushed 97 a couple of times and stayed around 90 - 94 on the highway. When it gets up I make sure the air con is of so it was a drive with the targas off in the heat. My iPhone came up with an over heat warning it was that bloody hot . Temp in winter stays about 83 - 84 unless giving it a spirited squirt then it will climb to around 90. It has always tended to slowly drop the temps after slowing thru towns after highway driving which I have always put down to the tight engine bay buffeting the air flow at high speed. Cheers Dave
Well a valiant effort by the ol' girl today! I was very impressed. I left a little earlier today thinking ill get home before traffic n such. Turned out onto Sydney Rd/Hume hwy and boom! bumper to bumper of cars, trucks and buses! All four lanes! I was stuck in this traffic for 1 hour just sitting with the occasional 1st gear roll. There was a fire up north which caused the bypass to be blocked, forcing all the outbound Folk onto the old Hume. The temp here today is 44!!! And boy was I baking! Windows down w/air con off obviously. So when I entered into this mayhem the Z's temp was at 83... Then slower than I expected it raised in temp until it reach 98 over the hour. I was free to drive off then up to 80km/h and then it dropped to 93 for the remainder 15mins. Pretty happy with that test!
mine sits around 84 degrees. but will rise after a wot run to about 88degrees. It runs about 4-5 degrees hotters since been converted to auto.
hi yesterday fire blocked hume heading home from seymore stop and start in traffic out side temp got to 47c waiting at traffic lights car temp got to 110c by ecu talk dash gauge moved to about 3/4 in the red shitting my self had to turn off aircon do a uturn back to wallan on freeway, temp droped to 96c .Needle on dash starts to move at about 105 to 110.
hot weather driving Friday 3 jan. I drove from Brisbane to Albury, inland. From Warwick the ambient temp was showing 49 degrees for 5 hours. the car temp gage was sitting mostly at 95. this is with a 23 year old radiator, air con off and cruise control at 110 kph. At times I would turn on air con until temp went to about 102 - 104. this would take about 10 to 15 minutes. turn off air con and temp back to 95. All this at day time. During the night ambient temp was about 32 - 34. car temp at 84, no air con and at 88 with air con. During the night I ran over a piece of truck tire and split the lower radiator inlet connection. Fluid loss was only when engine was off. still had over 800 k's to go. only stopped the once to refuel the car and myself. Replace radiator, hoses and fluids in Albury and drove back the same way and time on 16th Jan. Cooler day, at about 36 -38 temp. ambient temp showing 36 car temp showing about 90 - 92 with air con on during the day. At night ambient temps went to 26-28 and car temp was showing 79 -83. All in all was a good result for the cooling system of the zed. 16 hours of non stop driving in very hot conditions.
Lots of info here but still little info on the actual cooling system components/mods/deletes etc which is what is most interesting. Im willing to bet a totally stock system will outperform anything modified. E
yes baz still here. but as usual always working and no playing I see you are selling. thats no good only change to stock system is under plenum bypass and the thermo fan comes on with the air con
real question is . if on a stock Z if you just change the rad to a 56mm will it make a significant difference ? and/or will it only benefit a higher boosted built motor that generates more heat? .
Only if the thicker replacement rad is of at least same or better quality than the stock item. A lot of aftermarket radiators are pretty sketchy in design altho they sure look flashy and looking like more volume, just dont perform due to inefficient primary design. Its often the same for cheap arsed intamahcoolers. Bigger powah? More heat generated yes but under similar driving and realistic road conditions no. The vast majority of dudes just dont hold the throttle open long enough to exploit stock cooling system deficiencies. Thats the domain of circuit racers. E
That kind of common sense won't fly here. It's all about "my car doesn't overheat with a standard radiator so I'm going to upgrade to a thicker one made in china". S15 radiator is like 28mm thick I think? It's only on forums that bigger is always better haha
Something that I've noticed after owning many Zeds and working on many more is how clogged up original radiators and ac condensers can be. The amount of sticks, stones and bugs that come out of some is almost impressive. I've made it part of my routine to clean both out every time the radiator is out (usually at a 100k service). My manual na slicktop with stock radiator, ac condenser and an under drive pulley never moves from 84. My old auto na with a freshly reco'd radiator and ac system never went over 90 in bumper to bumper traffic on a 40 degree day. Apparently stock ecu pulls out timing at 94deg. To help compensate.
Today has to be over 30 deg in Brisbane. the aux fan /ecu pin mod (whether the diode is on the aircon or aircon control ecu pin doesn't make any diff) had the fan running intermittently, could be every time the aircon compressor turns it on. Even with that fan running I still saw coolant temp rise to 96 (my temp warning led comes on) so that means the aux fan should automatically be ON now, but even though I am driving at 60km/h the temp still went to 97, before I cut the aircon. The temp goes back to 88 while car moving at 50km/h. My aircon seems to add nearly 10degrees. It was gassed with Hi-chill about 2 years ago.
OK, but I always thought the viscous clutch fan (or any fan) was only doing something when the airflow on the radiator was less than 40km/h. So a car moving at 50 or 60km/h would cancel out any "not working correctly - viscous clutch blame" I do want to replace my viscous clutch soon, but I am wondering about the high overhead just from turning on the aircon. Even with the aux fan now switching on whenever the aircon compressor runs (I assume because the aux fan switches off periodically and that is obviously a feature of Michael's ECU triggered aux fan versus a switch wired into the relay keeping the aux fan always ON) So everyone uses R134 converted aircon and doesn't know what I am writing about. Is this high overhead common on HiChill gassed aircon or does it happen on R134 converted systems too. (Or just me because the radiator fan is doing more than 50km/h motion and it is just the viscous clutch.
The 40kph rule is more or less an accepted speed where ram airflow exceeds what the engine fan can do. Its not hard and fast tho, and in the case of the zed with it very restricted underbonnet breathing, its imperative that the viscous fan clutch is in good condition and working. The engine really fills the engine bay and the radiator is hard against the front of the engine to begin with really choking off ram airflow. The AC running skyrockets air temps in front of the radiator, not to mention radiated heat from the AC condenser core directly onto the radiator. All this really puts pressure on the cooling system that, in a TTZ is already a little marginal. So your issue is not AC related as such. Its just running the AC is highlighting a deficiency in the cooling system already there. Im assuming your fan shrouds are in place as well? The next thing is to ensure that the AC condenser and the radiator itself are clean and free from dead bugs, leaves and too many bent fins restricting any airflow. A lot of gubbins can build up between the 2 cores. You really need to remove the radiator so you can poke your head in and look forward thru the condenser core. If you can guarantee that then the next issue is the fan clutch. If it still get hot under the collar, the radiator could be clagging up with gunge/scale from previous poor maintenance. Having the entire cooling syste cleaned out could be worthwhile along with a thermostat replacement at the same time. good luck with it. E
