Motor Transplant - Won't start!

Discussion in 'Technical' started by mattyhylander, Jul 29, 2011.

  1. mattyhylander

    mattyhylander Black Zedder

    Hey guys, looking for a little help here!

    Did a motor transplant in my 91TT with a post 93TT motor.
    Did the 100k on it etc. Swapped plug ends over for CAS and injectors. Put it in and all wired up. Tried to start it and it just turns over without firing up!

    Checked the CAS, all injectors click, checked for spark.... It was there but erratic, have lots of fuel pressure (So my eye tells me when it got sprayed ;) ). ECU threw a code 21 and a code 34. So I put a series 2 PTU in it. Still no starting.

    Checked the ECU again and now the code 21 is gone but the 34 is still there (Det sens) and I have a new one, code 42 (Fuel temp)

    When cranking, the motor pulls vacuum on the aftermarket boost guage. I checked the cam timing when doing the 100k service a few times and am 100% certain that its correct. Brand new battery too.

    Any other ideas?
     
  2. Altari

    Altari '89 2+2 TT Manual

    Fuel temp sensor error 42 relates to the little pronged fuel sensor next to the front-most passenger side injector.

    Tried disconnecting and reconnecting everything? Also are the fuel lines plugged in the right way around?

    How certain are you about the spark being weak?

    Don't mind all the q's! Easiest way to find out what's wrong. :)
     
  3. mattyhylander

    mattyhylander Black Zedder

    The spark looked weak and erratic as it was little orange sparks not strong blue ones. That was before I swapped the PTU over though. I can check again. I think the fuel lines are right way round....... but not 100%. And yep, tried unplugging things, battery out and back in etc.
     
  4. mattyhylander

    mattyhylander Black Zedder

    Ok, the fuel lines were back to front! My god, how didn't I check that???
    Gave it a crack, it turned over probably 4 revolutions, then lagged a little (Cranking speed slowed) Now it seems to do that every 4 revolutions. Crank fast for 4, slow for 1, fast for 4, slow for 1
     
  5. ivan129

    ivan129 Active Member

    Won't Start

    Do a compression test. Often a compression test will give you a clue if the valve timing is out of wack because one bank will have a different comp to the other side. Regards Ivan


     
  6. pexzed

    pexzed Forum Administrator

    fuel temp sensor error just raises fuel pressure via the PRVR system (if it is still connected).
    You can check it's operation with datascan or similar software.
    If the temp reported is 80 deg c, then the sensor is open circuit.
    It's designed to overcome vapour locks in the fuel system on hot days/starts.
     
  7. mattyhylander

    mattyhylander Black Zedder

    Cool. Well thats the only fault (42) left now after some playing around. But still not firing.

    Question - How hot should the back of a series 2 PTU get? After 30sec cranking its hot enough to burn my fingers. I wired it as per the thread/photo on here.
     
  8. gmbrezzo

    gmbrezzo Moderator

    Double check the wiring on your S2 PTU as its easy to get wires mixed.
    Don't assume the wiring is right. I was doing a one to one wire change and following the pics, still got it wrong.
    Picked it up when I did a double check and all was good.
     
  9. Chilledpain

    Chilledpain Z Reaper

    Also check the ground at the back of the plenum. Happens all the time, gets left off, fried PTU...
     
  10. MagicMike

    MagicMike Moderator Staff Member

    Little earths on the back of the plenum done?
     
  11. Chilledpain

    Chilledpain Z Reaper

    lol beat u to it by 1 min Mike :p
     
  12. mattyhylander

    mattyhylander Black Zedder

    Yep, earths at the back of the plenum are on.
    I pulled all plugs, motor cranks fast and free with fuel mist blowing out of each cyl (So i'm assuming I have fuel in the cylinders) about 4 of the plugs were wet, quite wet. I checked spark on one lead, good strong blue spark. Compression test showed the following
    Drivers side front to rear 160psi, 165psi, 180psi
    Passen side front to rear 175psi, 160psi, 160psi

    I'll go check every lead/coil for spark now
     
  13. OZX_320

    OZX_320 Detachable Member

    check cylinder #1. If you have your black wires back to front, it will fire on the remaining 5 cylinders, but not on cyl#1. Coilpack will be extremely hot also, and most likely fubared.

    ....... may be speaking from experience :D
     
  14. mattyhylander

    mattyhylander Black Zedder

    I wired the PTU up backward. ie - top to botom. It appears I have now fried every channel apart from 1
    Are these common in any other car? easy to get from a wreckers?
    I rewired now - double checked.
    The old ser 1 is dead, now I fried the ser 2......
     
  15. OZX_320

    OZX_320 Detachable Member

    skylines. They are located underneath the top engine cover. Few members on here selling them also, and they are cheap on ebay.com (US ebay)
     
  16. gmbrezzo

    gmbrezzo Moderator

    Yep,,,but then the monhrels chatge heaps for shipping :eek:
    PTU wiring... easy to get wrong. I got distracted and wired 2 cylinders backward.
    good thing I double checked or I'd be in the same boat :zlove:
     
  17. mattyhylander

    mattyhylander Black Zedder

    One coming from the states, $35 all up.

    Yeah, well I am now thinking that when the cranking was slowing down was the result of a cylinder firing before TDC?
    I don't know how I wired it wrong. Its funny that now after I re-did it...... All the wire colours now match up
     
  18. Raheen

    Raheen Active Member

    thats why

    I snagged a series 2 ptu with the adapter harness, no rewiring or frying of anything involved :p
     

Share This Page