been doing a bit of reading but still cant decide. read an old thread on here that had good responses to the f1 racing ebay clutch / fly, read good reviews of the z1 kits but also found some bad ones, read lots of bad opinions about the xtd brand kits but noticed a few people on here have them....so.. the plan is to get the zed out onto the track for some drift, so what would be a good combo? i know a super light flywheel is bad for drags and launching, but what about drift and circuit? would 6 puck or full face be better? im still leaning towards the z1 kit at the moment, the only thing im worried about is weather it will survive more than a few track days? i know the f1 kit is best bang for buck...but maybe only in a daily?
You want high inertia flywheels, not lightweight flywheels for clutch kicks... Are you still using the NA 5sp?
Gripforce on us eBay ftw. So cheap and so good. Cam has one in his drifter, and cara and I have one each in our zeds. They're great!
I just had a Jim Berry clutch installed. He used my OEM diaphragm with new Sachs casting and pressure plate and made up a new six button centre. The old clutch measured at 2200lb clamp load, the new one is 4400lb. Massive clamp load and stll a single plate. The engagement is so much smoother than previous six button too. If you are serious about getting a good clutch that can take some abuse give him a call 07 3847 9999. FYI I am running 4.7kg chrome molly flywheel but Jim reccomended refitting stock fly. Considering how good the clutch is I might just take his advice... Just found a pic, buttons are massive and actually extend below the contact surface to act like a heat sink. Apparently helps to keep the engagement smooth... seems to work.
Depends on the driving style, i doubt an expensive clutch will last long either. Id say try the gripforce f1 racing ebay cheapos. See how they go and how long they last, then maybe upgrade.
Any drifting is probably the hardest duty a clutch can get. NO AMOUNT OF DRIVING STYLE is going to protect a cheap clutch from screwing up. Seeing the labour on clutch replacement is worth more than the cheap ass clutch. Just spend the money on a good one that will survive for a while from the start. Cheaping out on this stuff ridiculous. Look how thick the Puck material is on Robs pic. The cheap ones off ebay I have seen would be lucky to have half that. If you are going to just drive it on the street at 14psi, the cheap ass clutch would prob be OK. For a while!!
I LOVE my exedy 5 puck brass button with JUN lightweight fly! Smooth uptake, no slippage, no shudder. If I didn't put it in myself I would have said it was a full face organic But yeah, Jim Berry is probably the way to go. He will make the clutch to suit the application. Not cheap (well less than a twin plate), but you will have something fit for the job.
I'm running the UAS 1300KG (2800lb)clutch with the 4.8kg flywheel.. Jim Berry's sounds like a good upgrade . Any reason why he recommends a stock flywheel?
Yeah that's what I had (assuming you are talking about the UAS six button?)... It's a much better clutch. He reckons much more driveability with standard fly, apparently a bit of weight is a desireable thing. Alos 'molly is very slippery
My uas 6puck lasted half as long as my f1 clutch, with less power thru it aswell... All the nay sayers should try one before bagging them out... Plenty of happy users on here
i got a Jim Berry clutch in my laser, he knows how to build good clutches for what you want. not cheap tho.
would a stage 4 n/a clutch slip on boost on a tt even if the tt has lower hp than what the clutch can handle? would the sudden boost of speed cause it to slip?
should be looking at torque capacities instead... are you talking about F1 clutches? 'Stage 4' is a 6-puck that's specced to handle 530Nm... stock TT outputs 384Nm. If you're wondering if the design of the clutch is different to it being for a N/A, the only difference between the TT and N/A 6-puck is the diameter. TT clutches are 250mm, N/A clutches are 240mm.
