Photo is deceptive. Car is up on 4wd trailer ramps. Elevated at slight angle. Splitter is actually very close to dead level when it's on ground /level ground. In regards to the rubber spacer? Do you mean across the front to "widen" the space so the splitter tilts downwards
Yes If you have the same UAS bar and splitter is hard up against it it won't be level or have a slight rake down . Put a dial/degree gauge and see when car is on level flat surface. .
Ok in that case if its right then UAS bar sits a little lower as I had to extend the length of my APR rods .
Yeah I checked and in the middle it's dead level. The edges it looks like it may kick up a degree slightly. (Makes a scoop) I'll probably try fix this
The rods extend up and attach to the bottom of the REO bar .,had to cut some of my front bar to allow them to fit on properly. As black beast did and I discovered from a few conversations. No point pulling the front bar down, you want the cars front to come down
clearance issue central.. Driving to wakefield is gonna be a PRICK! This shows the slight downward tilt at the front/center. sadly a slight kick up at the sides. will look at some "rubber" to space and hopefully fix this.
Rear diffuser/undertray With out giving much away just yet Many may know my wings west rear bar It's a low sitting, wide body kit look a like style rear bar. Combine that with a 2+0 zed where the fuel tank is behind the seats not in the back and you all of a sudden have a massive hollow space with a low hanging bar to catch the air - Thus my calling it the wings west parachute So I set off to find a way to seal this effectively without just "cutting a hole in it". I did some browsing and digging and Mungy came to the rescue With a few alterations I'll have it fit up just right with a probably good effect and looking fairly custom and neat also I'll provide a picture ATM The top edge of the diffuser in the picture is the bottom of the factory rear bar The black urethane lip lower down is the bottom of my WW rear bar See how much further down it hangs
All set up now, firmly attached, and is even height adjustable for various rear bars with 6 extra drilled holes, and 4x65mm m6 screws and 12 nuts And a couple of washers Next phase. Trimming the excess low hanging bar up to the diffuser line
Over due update As some know. I competed in snowy1000-a runway 0-1000m event and got 24th fastest overall with 246kmph Some also know, as a result my car revealed weaknesses, the factory gearbox developed what sounds like input shaft problems, my clutch gave up, and a odd starting problem. **the starting problem I believe I have fixed since. And I have sourced a 98-2000spec gearbox along with a twin plate clutch to upgrade as well as upgrading my intercooler, from a dingy hks copy FMIC to a well made and truly tested plazmaman quality huge mofo...
Hey Procky, awesome write up, great detail, just read most of it and was a good read. New wheels look better I'm wondering though, I've bought a Z1 GT600 turbo kit, which uses the GT2560R turbos, which are smaller than yours. I'm building a similar spec engine, similar heads, ported, was going to run JWT R4+ cams, same as yours, and I was really expecting to make close to 600hp at high boost, which I consider about 20psi, maybe 24psi on my turbos. All the kit suppliers (Z1, AMS, CZP) claim with these GT2560R turbos, 600rwhp is possible with the right tune, and I think it's fair to say they're not talking about exotic fuels or running E85. I always thought they mean premium pump fuel. Now here's, the thing, the last dyno result I saw of yours, you made 410rwkw, and in your sig I see you've made about 418rwkw at 24psi I think, which works out to be 560rwhp @ 24psi. And I think that's pusing the limits of 98 octane fuel. So assuming a 15% drivetrain power loss at your power levels, you're making around 660hp at the engine. Then they sell a 700hp kit, using GT2860R turbos, disco potatoes, smaller than your turbos, and again claim you can get the 700hp @ wheels with these. But you've got GTX2862R turbos, or something like that, so slightly bigger again, and GTX so designed to be more efficient at high boost levels, I haven't looked at the maps, but I assume when you're at 24psi with the GTX turbos, they should be pretty efficient. Surely you don't need more boost to get the benefits of the GTX compressor. You've probably got what they would consider an 800hp turbo kit. But you're not making 800hp, let alone rwhp, and you've got what I thought would be the mods and bolt-ons to do it. So what the hell do you need to do to make the power that these suppliers and I suppose Garrett themself claim you can make with them?? More boost? Bigger R5 cams? Maybe solid cams? Bigger exhaust housings?? Would like to hear others thoughts, because I'm considering going solid cams, and maybe I need to, so I can max out the turbos.
With 98 I reckon it would be a knock limited motor. With e85 you would most likely be able to tune mbt and find the limit.
Let me elaborate the main issue here You said you purchased z1 gt600 ? Ok they are American. I have it on good authority that they inflate dyno results to sell products or business (eg using co2 spray on intercoolers during runs)!!! Also I seem to have calculated down about a 14% power difference between American cars and Australian cars from an actual imported car on the same tune and ""apparently"" same octane fuel On your 2560 on 98octane. I feel you will be around 330-350rwkw@24psi E85 will help this go higher of course but will require more work. BUT!! I did make that 417.5 on a restrictive flow set up , my intercooler. Lost all efficiency from 22psi upwards So we will see what the new one does soon. The GTX turbos make their improvement mainly to efficiency at higher boost levels not really lower down , it's marginally small. P.S. A 15% drivetrain loss is pretty small
It looks like we've identified 3 issues here: 1 octane 2 different dyno results 3 exaggerated marketing From what I understand the U.S. Premium 91 pump fuel is equivalent to about 97 RON, so our 98 premium is a bit better. Dynos work on physics, they measure torque, force by distance. Sure there's going to be calibration differences, you get that anywhere, and there will be guys who fudge their numbers, but to claim the whole country works on a 15% offset to us is crazy. Unless Gravity has a different value over there??? So then you've got marketing bullshit. For GT2560R turbos, CZP claim 300rwhp per turbo, Z1 claim "nearly" 300rwhp per turbo, even garret claim 330hp per turbo. They can't all be full of it. These figures have to be based on efficient flow. If you out a single 330hp turbo on a 800hp engine, yeah you'll choke it to death but you'll still probably make 400hp. So the 330hp rating has to be based on efficient real world flow, as shown on the comp maps. So how do you achieve this? The only thing I can think of is the base engines they're being used on aren't maxing them out. R4+ cams will make XXhp, R5 cams will make more power, and R2700+++ cams will make even more power. Obviously bigger turbos are going to let an engine make power more easily, but maybe a pair of GT2560R turbos won't actually choke an engine that makes 800hp on bigger turbos and they'll make 650ish engine hp on the same engine.
