Hi all, the auto tranny in my 89 TT has given up...won,t engage in any gear. Didn,t happen under load, no indications at all of hesitation or any weird noises. After restarting it tries to get going, then....a box full of neutrals...it has fluid. Hoping for an easy diagnosis if any one has had similar issues, hoping for an electrical fault, maybe really old fluid, ?? cheerz craig
Hi Craig, before anything, it reads as if you havnt had the Auto serviced in a loooong time? This could be a good start, the oil could be very old and not doing its job, the filter could be blocked or the bands need a tighten. Another BIG problem could be a destroyed Tourque converter! I restored a HT Prem some years back and although it didnt have a high tech auto, the symptoms were the same. You could get the car rolling with a boot full of revs! Tightened the bands a fresh fluids didnt fix it. Finally I dropped the box out and found the Torque converter sounded like a babies rattle!!! Totally smashed up inside It doesn't sound electrical to me, if it were the TPS, you wod have odd shifting points...this won't effect actually engaging 1st. Go seek advice from reputable Auto Trans Shop for a service, rebuild and/or new Torque converter. Good luck
Cheerz for that Cam, yes previous history is a bit clouded! this car was previously owned by forum member Kieren....(the orange beast) I purchased it from a another guy who didn't know the history of the g/box All I know is its shift kitted & was changing fine... will get a service done and see what is uncovered I guess, hard to spend money on things that appear to be going great..... thanks for your response
Sounds like a hard life it's had! Look into this once you get prices on different options: http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=325506 Deans box apparently "feels good" :rofl: a good late model trans...cheap too
Strooth, yeah will consider all options & after reading that thread.... Deans box sounds very errr....experienced? May need to give the infectious diseases clinic a call first!! seriously prob too much to get it to Brissy....but will get a trans mob to get the pan off & have a look at filter & bands, sounding like converter already... cheerz again
I would guess if you take off the pan, that you'll see enough debris of breaking down plates, to simulate a tsunami floodplain. I hope I'm wrong, as it can be a few $ to fix and as most will tell you, its not worth just doing this part .. need a renno or get a second hand one .. Ego ship interstate (on pallet for this weight) at a very reasonable cost Vic to QLD just over $100.00 I believe, so its not a biggie to ship. Good luck
Thanx will check that out... Hey GL with your sale also, Niall certainly vouches for what a tidy car it is. I now have 3, all TT autos in various states of distress...... How good am I goin!
I got my auto reco'd for bit over $3000 w/oil cooler and new Torque converter. The funny thing is, while that was good to do, the biggest improvement was when I put a new $145 TPS :rofl:
Thanx Eric, do you recall doing a timing belt on that car? would be stoked if you could tell me it was done at the same time as the plenum pull... cheerz fella in Redcliffe owned the car after Keiren , he wasn,t sure. Damn strong car BTW!! love it....
i have an 89 tt auto too and it just stoped going into 3rd and 4th last week it wont go into 3rd until it gets over about 7grand in revs it has plenty of fluid is only about 6mths old since last change seems to be getting worse too
try this (copied from tech section) AT diagnostics To begin a diag it is best to take a short drive 2 or 3 miles to ensure full working temperature has been obtained first.and then switch OFF the engine With overdrive switch in on position and lever in P switch on ignition but do not start engine,the A/T lamp should lit up for about two seconds then go out. Switch off the ignition and move selector lever to D also switch OFF the overdrive, switch the ignition ON but do not start the car. With the ignition still ON and after more than 2 seconds move the lever to 2 follow this by switching the overdrive switch ON.Then move the lever to 1, and set the overdrive switch to OFF. Still with the ignition on depress the accelerator pedal fully and release it. The A/T check light will now flash the appropriate blink code as deatiled below. After this to retrurn to normal switchOFF the ignition and move lever to P and set the overdrive back ON. Fault codes are read as follows: A long flash indicates the start and is not to be counted One long flash and No 1 blink long rest normal = Revolution sensor circuit fault One long flash and No 2 blink long rest normal = Speed sensor circuit fault One long flash and No 3 blink long rest normal = Throttle sensor circuit fault One long flash and No 4 blink long rest normal = Shift solenoid `A` fault One long flash and No 5 blink long rest normal = Shift Solenoid "B" fault One long flash and No 6 blink long rest normal = Overrun clutch solenoid fault One long flash and No 7 blink long rest normal = Lock up solenoid fault One long flash and No 8 blink long rest normal = Gearbox fluid temerature sensor circuit fault One long flash and No 9 blink long rest normal = Engine revolution sensor circuit fault One long flash and No10 blink long restnormal . = Line pressure solenoid circuit fault One long flash and 10 equall length blinks...... = All clear NOTE If when attempting this test no A/T check lamp operation a system check of the inhibitor switch,overdrive switch,kickdown switch or idle switch circuit will be required. Secondly, I would suggest trying another automatic transmission control unit (next to ECU in passengers foot well).
This but also your TPS plays a MASSIVE role in setting the parameters for shift points! After the mucking around with the manual swap and auto swap back in (lol) I had funny shift points all of a sudden. It was fine when I picked it up, but after I stopped at a servo coming back to Melbourne, I noticed the A/T light did a check (flashing). It then wouldn't shift until really high revs! Much like what you are explaining. I knew it would be TPS related, so I un-plugged it and plugged it, disconnected battery, and plugged everything back up to reset things....and business as usual followed. I keep saying this.....buy a NEW TPS. Even my old one that did read badically the correct volts still was old and had it. The best improvement so far made to the Auto beyond a rebuild. was a new TPS... Changed so much!
ok so i got my new tps and installed and tuned it to .45v as per tech guide reset and ran = no difference ....still reves right out in second to redline before it will go to third . using the power or hold switch makes no difference either . does any 1 have an auto trans ecu they will part with .. other than that i will be looking for a new box ...
Sorry to here mate, well at least you know that's new now and you can tick it off the list. To be honest mate, you could probably find a good Auto second hand, but it would be rare. Take you car to an Auto shop to be looked at, it may just need the bands tightened, new filter, and new oil. If that fails then possibly buy a Remanufactured trans from CZP for $1800, god knows how much shipping will cost. Or go for the reco option on your Auto, about $3000 usually will all new everything, but that's the same as what CZP sells....you will need to get a quote on shipping to gauge which way to go. Good luck
If the problem is still on going after replacing the TPS and running the diagnosis, take it to an auto transmission specialist! As Cam said it may just need a service or band adjustments. I'd do that if I were you, before you rack out $$$ for another transmission (if one is even needed).
I just reminded myself of the inhibitor switch in another thread: http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1362979#post1362979 Have a think about this too.
i just spent half the day testing continuity on the inhibitor switch and found to be all good next is to pull it off and clean and inspect it
Have you had a shop give it a service yet? You know then if its still not happy, you need to give it an overhaul.
im servicing it today at work over the pit .. the fluid was quite dark almost black . no peices or parts in the pan or filter . magnet was quite full of fluff so i cleaned every thing and am putting it back together now ...we will see how it goes ...soon
